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Wolverine MM Pro problem with Super-8 please help

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  • Kamel Ikhlef
    replied
    Thanks for your feedback David and Stan,

    In fact, I planned to leave the focusing slider there permanently instead of the spacers.
    I do not know the size of the micrometer with an "X" axis, but it may be possible.
    the one I made 25X25mm. Yes, I'm thinking about moving the switches and redesigning a new command panel front cover.


    I am concerned that parts that are too thin will interfere with the alignment. the camera must remain well parallel to the film. the parts must be rigid.

    Sorry for my "google translate " english.

    Still work.

    Leave a comment:


  • David Brown
    replied
    Very clever Kamel. You are very fast from concept to product!

    I think this must be for testing spacer distances, it looks plenty strong even for PLA, it could be thinner in places. What kind of force do you think could cause a problem?

    It could also be used for a permanent focusing adjustment. The f5.6 DOF should include the difference of emulsion side up or down or the thinner Fuji film base. If a 2 axis adjustment is used, it would be able to do focus and adjust between S8 or R8 (red).
    Click image for larger version

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    But, leaving it in place will move the switches!


    P.S. The audio switch is for high volume, low volume, or none.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Looks good Kamel. Don't think lower than 18mm is necessary because don't think the lens can go that low.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kamel Ikhlef
    replied
    ello Everybody,
    Here is the first test of implementation.
    Not quite that yet but it is coming good.
    Still some tweaks in the 3D design. I have to put brass inserts for more precision in the fixing of the parts.
    I hope it can work. In gait I replace the spacers by this element.

    Due to the thickness of the parts. I at least 18mm to 25mm in height.
    This should work well with the 16mm F5.6 aico lens. We could go lower but we would have to design thinner parts and therefore not rigid enough which would harm the precision of the focusing and lose all the interest of the system.
    Or else make thinner aluminum parts to save space but the cost would be too high, I think.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Kamel Ikhlef; April 24, 2021, 04:22 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kamel Ikhlef
    replied

    OK David, Mystery solved but I did not understand "soft" (less noise?) ...
    For dust I thought of 2 methods but I did not try yet.

    1 - Formerly at GOKO, he put a small container filled with a cleaning liquid hung just after the supply reel just before the scan.
    2- A small fan which blows permanently on the framing window. Finally some ideas ...

    BTW: I'm making good progress on the slider project. Some modifications to bypass the components of the V12 board (very close to the mounting holes of the camera spacers).

    But the 3D printing is great. Too bad I can't make my parts in aluminum.
    I'm afraid of the lack of rigidity of the plastic print.
    I took Titan X industrial quality for mechanical parts.

    We will see, but if it works it will help me a lot for the focusing.
    I have many films with different thickness. I can redo the focus at each reel change. It is moving forward!

    Leave a comment:


  • David Brown
    replied
    Kamel, let me reveal the great mystery! The switch is for the capstan audio alarm. HI=II, OFF=O, & SOFT=I.

    The real mystery is how all those switches don't collide with the camera!

    I need to try the dust cleaner that Torulf Holmström used on his T-scann. I'd use the blue painter's tape instead of electrical tape.

    I clean and clean, yet I still get occasional tiny fibers going through the gate. Maybe I'm generating static?

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Thank you Kamel for the feedback. Will still think if I want to go into a project like this. The best approach is to go simple and test some of the concepts first.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kamel Ikhlef
    replied
    Stan,

    Wow, excellent 3D print design (great telecine).
    In the end, it encourages me that my project to run is nothing in comparison.
    Yes, the double pulley capstan appeals to me much more.

    For the printer sidewinder X1, It is an excellent machine with very good print quality and good reliability.
    It is a great choice if you have the room because it is bulky and if you need a large print volume. Not recommended for ABS without box.

    Some small improvements will have to be made to make it a high-end printer at an unbeatable price(adding a Bl-touch for example, change the filament support...).

    It has a lot of functions that I don't have on my 2 printers.
    I prefer the XY cores printers. But they are much more expensive because they are closed.
    This printer remains an excellent choice, even the best at this price for the high print quality.

    it has undeniable advantages: ultrabase heating plate (the best), directdrive extruder for the flexible filament, large volume and speed of printing, etc ... (on the last version). Maybe, you will find a better price on gearbest.

    It remains one of the best printers around. You will not be disappointed.
    Last edited by Kamel Ikhlef; April 22, 2021, 03:17 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Kamel, Would really need a 3D printer for a project like this one. Unfortunately I do not have one but could try some experiments with the stepper and the MSP. See if I can get consistent frame alignment.
    In the following video:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8--CjP7y2s
    Pat is using the following 3D printer:
    https://www.amazon.com/Artillery-Sid.../dp/B07QKJMJKG

    I am not that familiar with the 3D printers but the price seems to be OK and it can print pretty large pieces.
    BTW - do not particularly like the claw design. It is simple but it could possibly damage the film on the return path.

    Last edited by Stan Jelavic; April 22, 2021, 10:48 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kamel Ikhlef
    replied

    OK Stan thank you for your advice, I'll try 2048x1536 to get Hawkeye to rise from the ashes. (Still a lot of work).
    Here is a first slider approach (not the final version)...
    it will be fixed in place of the 20mm spacers. It should work.
    We'll see the progress this weekend, if all goes well.
    BTW :
    I'm going to find out a bit about the double roller capstan, it's really very interesting if we could make this mod.

    I will be the first buyer.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Originally posted by Kamel Ikhlef View Post
    Will it be necessary to drill the front trunk and provide a pressure spring?
    The idler roller may have to be spring loaded.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Are you using 20mm spacing Kamel? If so go with 2048x1536 resolution.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kamel Ikhlef
    replied

    Yes, indeed close but less good. Your 63 lines are much better !

    My images are generally less well defined than yours. I think that we can improve (the slide micrometer will be more precise but, I am perhaps not far from the limit of my material.

    The last scan of the test chart that you posted a few days ago was not far from 80 lines (Very good),
    I would like to at least achieve this result I think I'm on the right track.

    For the pinch capstan, there is some elastic 3D filament which might be suitable.
    Will it be necessary to drill the front trunk and provide a pressure spring?
    In any case, a very good idea which appeals to me. Thinking...

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Looking at David's capstan design gave me an idea.


    Use 2 of these to pinch the film. Believe some of the high end machines do it that way. One of them can be driven by a stepper. A flange can be added with the notches as a part of the motor encoder. Or the encoder can be another sprocket idler wheel. The idler wheel can be indented in the center so that it does not touch the image portion of the film. An MSP or Arduino can be used as a controller.
    Pretty simple sw. Run the stepper until the signal is received from the encoder. Sent trigger to the cam. Pause and then run again and so on.
    Bad perforations would not impact the operation. Too many perforations missing could cause issues with the encoder but making the encoder sprocket wheel large would mitigate that.


    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    That is pretty close to my BUC02 test with the 16mm lens and 20mm spacers.
    Click image for larger version

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