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Author
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Topic: Where do I put manual exposure for E64
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Winbert Hutahaean
Film God
Posts: 5468
From: Nouméa, New Caledonia
Registered: Jun 2003
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posted August 12, 2008 10:22 PM
Hi,
This is to follow my other thread re the first experience with E64. As you know, the result was too blueish and from the other thread I can get the answer that this is much because the picture was shot over-exposure.
I have to tell you that during shooting with E64, I set my old 8mm camera, Magnon SD-817M, on "auto" exposure which now I believe it was set only to accept K40s.
So, for my new cartridge I will give another try to see what is the result of E64 if I set the exposure button in manual position.
However, I have a very limited knowledge about photography, so Joerg and other perhaps can help me in this thing (anyway, I use 8mm is only because I love this format very much!)
Below is the picture of exposure button taken from my camera.
I have numbered it (0-5) for your easy explanation.
My questions are:
1. If I want to take the outdoor shooting on the beach with full of sunshine, at what number I have to set the manual exposure?
2. If I want to take the outdoor shooting at the garden where everything looks green and only few sunlight due to the cloud at what number I have to set the manual exposure?
3. During the indoor shooting with 500 watt tungsten light, at what number I have to set the manual exposure? and what I have to do with the internal filter?
4. During the indoor shooting without any additional light (only use domestic lights), and where do I put the exposure and can I get the picture?
Thanks for your help and am sorry for being too many stupid questions in this thing :-)
cheers,
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Winbert
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Jim Carlile
Film Handler
Posts: 95
From: Burbank, California, USA
Registered: Apr 2007
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posted August 13, 2008 04:30 AM
In the old days Kodak used to include little info sheets with their film that had exactly this kind of information.
Roughly, at the beach, go for anything around f/16, maybe higher if your camera can do it.
In the garden, overcast, f/5.6 to f/8.
Even better, on auto exposure, if your camera exposes for Kodachrome, then E64 is about 2/3 stop over. So, just close your meter down about 2/3 stop more than what it says.
Example-- if the meter says f/8 for Kodachrome, then manually close down the aperture an additional 2/3 stop, to about where f/10 would be--- a little less than f/11. In most cases the numbers in the viewfinder are one-stop apart.
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Winbert Hutahaean
Film God
Posts: 5468
From: Nouméa, New Caledonia
Registered: Jun 2003
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posted August 14, 2008 10:57 PM
No guys, I am not filming TV screen. And it is almost impossible for me to get a new camera since I live in Indonesia which I believe, my self the only person left with super 8mm.
So I have to stick with this camera which has broken on exposure meter.
However, the auto exposure feature cannot be used to do get the picture because it is always getting over exposure.
Therefore I have to use my own feeling with manual exposure to compensate the outside light during shooting with E64.
So, please guys, if you cannot give the answer using my scale above, can you give me a simple answer to the following question:
1. In manual exposure, if I turn the button to no.1, do I get dark picture or bright picture?
Thanks,
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Winbert
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Joerg Polzfusz
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 815
From: Berlin, Germany, Europe, Earth, Solar System
Registered: Apr 2006
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posted August 15, 2008 09:55 AM
quote:
In manual exposure, if I turn the button to no.1, do I get dark picture or bright picture?
As "1" is close to "off"/"0", I would assume that "0" is fully closed, "1" is "a little bit opened" (something like f16 or f22 = a lot of light), "2" is "even wider opened", ... "5" is "fully opened" (=nearly no light).
But it could also be the other way round!
But you should be able to check this by looking into the lens while moving the button.
BTW: according this page, "Magnon" wasn't a brand used by Dixons, but by the manufacturer himself:
http://super8data.com/ -> cameras \ magnon
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Knut Nordahl
Expert Film Handler
Posts: 173
From: Norway
Registered: Dec 2005
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posted August 19, 2008 03:03 AM
Winbert, if you do not have any cameraknowledge, get yourself an old used SLR camera from your local "good-will store". These have detatchable lenses, and are great for understanding principles.
The picture Joerg linked to is great. It showes you the iris in the lens. To see the one in your camere, you need to look into the lens and probably zoom. Try looking at it at some different angles so that light shines down the lensbarrel from different angles.
NOTE: The Iris in your camera MAY look like the one in the picture, but it MAY also be just be two blades.
When you see it, try turning the "MANUAL" setting dial. If "1" = tiny hole, then "1" means not much light will hit the film(Daytime).
If "1" = big hole, lots of light will hit the film. And you should use 1 for dull lighting oand nighttime.
Here is some of my recent non bluish (i think) e64t. Apart from the jumping, wich is codek-relatet I think it is ok.
http://www.vimeo.com/1556379
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Joerg Polzfusz
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 815
From: Berlin, Germany, Europe, Earth, Solar System
Registered: Apr 2006
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posted August 22, 2008 10:35 AM
Hi,
quote:
I have checked my camera and I didn't see any open-close Iris like that.
Wouldn't that because my camera has an automatic feature (electric eye), so everything is done electrically?
You'll have to switch to "manual" and rotate the knob to see if the iris is moving. Depending on the camera, you might have to turn on the camera while testing this. And of course there's still the chance that your camera has got a Guillotine (or something similar) instead of an iris (in this case you would still see something that moves) or that setting the f-stop only affects the degree of the opening in the of the rotary shutter (in this case you wouldn't be able to see anything as this shutter is normally hidden behind a semi-transparent mirror when looking through the lens).
When nothing else helps: When the camera is turned on, turning the "manual exposure"-knob should affect the amount of light that reaches the film chamber. (As long as the camera is fully functional.)
So remove any film, leave the film chamber open, set the camera to 18fps or lower, point the camera to some light source in a semi-dark room, shoot (without film!) and see how the amount of light in the film chamber changes when playing around with the "manual exposure"-knob.
quote:
I am going to do some shooting this weekedn, and becase I don't know what I have to do to avoid over-exposure during daylight shooting, do you think it is save to set the manual exposure on no. 3? (in thinking "3" is in the middle between open and fully closed Iris)
If you would be in Germany and if the weather forecast is correct, I would say that this might be correct. But as you're in Indonesia I would say that there's a very, very high risk of overexposal.
Jörg
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