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Author Topic: Film Guard damage? ....or something else?
Kim Clark
Junior
Posts: 8
From: Bainbridge Island, WA USA
Registered: Jul 2008


 - posted July 31, 2008 12:22 AM      Profile for Kim Clark   Email Kim Clark   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I purchased Film Guard with high hopes after doing extensive reading, but have run into what looks like the "rain effect" people have mentioned that must be wiped off (or absorbed?) before the process is complete. But these streaks don't wipe off!

I don't know what the footage looked like before (it's not my film, which makes matters even worse!) but I need some help finding the cause, and maybe find a fix?!

It's especially apparent on sequences with lots of darkness. Oddest thing is, the streaks are about 30degrees off vertical, and I don't see how this could have happened, as I applied the Filmguard between two rewinds through a moistened pad, as recommended. I'd think this would cause vertical streaks if anything, but I can't think of anything else that would cause "rain".

Other info:
*This is standard8 film, so it could be rather old.
*I put the filmguard pretty freely and then immediately wiped it off in the reverse direction.
*Then I did several passes until there was no more green on the pads once I saw how it projected.
*The problem is like light-colored rain in the dark-colored underexposed areas. Eek!

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 525
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted July 31, 2008 02:08 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Well just as an FYI you probably went way overboard on the application, as most first timers do. (Most people think if a little does this much good, then slathering it on must be incredible...not so.) Anyway there are 32 ounces in that bottle. ONE ounce is enough to clean 16,000 feet of 35mm film. Figuring that you are cleaning 8mm film, and a 7 inch diameter 20-30 minute reel is 400 feet...just how much did you use? (This is why I tell 8mm collectors to buy one bottle, as that for many will be a lifetime supply.)

Second, if the streaks are off axis, that sounds like something different. Regardless, if you were to rewind the reels a few times with moderate to tight tension, the simple fact of the film winding flat against itself will "smear" out any streaks.

Not that any of that really matters though, because that damage was already there. FilmGuard streaking on the initial projection is simply not visible in dark scenes, only the brightest.

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Douglas Meltzer
Moderator

Posts: 4554
From: New York, NY, USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted July 31, 2008 09:10 AM      Profile for Douglas Meltzer   Email Douglas Meltzer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Kim

quote:
Then I did several passes until there was no more green on the pads once I saw how it projected
This is the problem that I'd worry about, which has nothing to do with any cleaner/lubricant. Could it be possible that the color dyes are coming off?

Doug

--------------------
I think there's room for just one more film.....

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Keith Ashfield
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 997
From: U.K.
Registered: Dec 2006


 - posted July 31, 2008 10:05 AM      Profile for Keith Ashfield     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Kim,

What did the film look like prior to treating with Film Guard? Did you watch any of it, prior to treatment?

--------------------
"We'll find 'em in the end, I promise you. We'll find 'em. Just as sure as a turnin' of the earth".

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Kim Clark
Junior
Posts: 8
From: Bainbridge Island, WA USA
Registered: Jul 2008


 - posted July 31, 2008 01:13 PM      Profile for Kim Clark   Email Kim Clark   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Responses to all your appreciated reactions above:
Well, I folded over those specially made thin pads about 4-6 times to make a good padded surface and held them atop the bottle (cap was off) while upending the bottle about a second or so. I got more generous later, remembering I think the film-tech site said "as long as the pads don't drip" so, the film was 'nice and glisten-ey'. Bottle looks hardly used after 200' of treatment
quote:
Second, if the streaks are off axis, that sounds like something different... FilmGuard streaking on the initial projection is simply not visible in dark scenes, only the brightest.
I can breathe again.
quote:
[Green coming off onto the pads] is the problem that I'd worry about, which has nothing to do with any cleaner/lubricant. Could it be possible that the color dyes are coming off?
I wish I could get more reassurance from this, but I assume the green *wouldn't* have come off onto the pads if there hadn't been any filmguard on it, at least not as much, right? So I feared the filmguard smeared heavy black emulsion parts, revealing lighter-colored ("rain") places where too much emulsion was dissolved - an unresolvable problem once the damage was done.
quote:
What did the film look like prior to treating with Film Guard? Did you watch any of it, prior to treatment?
Ah, if I had done this, all would be revealed! But, nada, unforturnately.

Which brings to mind a little pet peave provoked by Internet advice given elsewhere. People advise: "Of course, test the application of filmguard first, on a piece of unimportant footage". -> -> So many pieces of film have unique characteristics I think this is unrealistic.

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Chip Gelmini
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1733
From: Brooksville, FL
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted July 31, 2008 01:31 PM      Profile for Chip Gelmini     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have followed Brad's advice on the application and never had a problem with Filmguard.

Not many of us are lucky to have the Kelmar cleaner like me, but using a moistended cloth between two rewinds is something I would never do, only because the application of the product would be too much as Brad points out.

The Kelmar cleaner is a theater equipment for the booth operator, mainly built for 35mm but easily converted to 8/16. An expensive piece of equipment, get your hands on one when you can. Use the mounting blocks on a piece of plywood and you'll never have problems cleaning films again.

CG

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Michael O'Regan
Film God

Posts: 3085
From: Essex, UK
Registered: Oct 2007


 - posted July 31, 2008 01:54 PM      Profile for Michael O'Regan   Email Michael O'Regan   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I use a moistened cloth between rewinds wit FilmGuard, without any problems - using only a tiny amount. The temptation can be to apply more than is needed. Just take a bit of care.

Remember what you are applying it to - its not a dirty window!!!!

-Mike

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Dan Lail
Film God

Posts: 2110
From: Loganville, Georgia, USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted July 31, 2008 02:42 PM      Profile for Dan Lail   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have used Filmguard on at least a hundrd films and no problems. The films were 8mm, super 8, and 16mm. The film stocks ranged from I.B. Tech to new and old Fuji, Agfa, Kodachrome, 3M, Kodak, etc. I use cotton cloths folded two times. I spray the FG on with a couple of sprays, then hold the cloth around the film front and back between rewinds while applying gentle pressure. Nothing but excellnt results. I imagne if you wiped the excess with a second pass using a dry cloth and too much pressure then damage could ocurr. Too much FG will not damage film. This product is in use in theatres around the world. That is a lot of testing.

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Kim Clark
Junior
Posts: 8
From: Bainbridge Island, WA USA
Registered: Jul 2008


 - posted July 31, 2008 03:30 PM      Profile for Kim Clark   Email Kim Clark   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks for your "in the field" tips!

I think I was over influenced by the information on film-tech.com: "[There should be a definite "wet" glaze to the print.]" Apparently tipping the bottle onto the cloth is no way to apply filmguard - spraying onto the cloth is the only way to go. Takes a little more care, but it sounds like the right way to do it.

I'm also concluding that over application in itself can't damage a print, and since I saw the "rain" effect before I really tried applying pressure to dry off the filmguard, I didn't cause the streaks.

Yippee!

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Dan Lail
Film God

Posts: 2110
From: Loganville, Georgia, USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted July 31, 2008 04:15 PM      Profile for Dan Lail   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Kim, the game is afoot! [Big Grin]

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Joe Taffis
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1592
From: United States
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted July 31, 2008 04:57 PM      Profile for Joe Taffis   Email Joe Taffis   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
after reading the posts, I can say that i've OVER applied FilmGuard on several films with absolutely no problems [Smile]

--------------------
Joe Taffis

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Kim Clark
Junior
Posts: 8
From: Bainbridge Island, WA USA
Registered: Jul 2008


 - posted July 31, 2008 05:42 PM      Profile for Kim Clark   Email Kim Clark   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks,
The response has been so helpful (and friendly [Roll Eyes] ) I wish I'd posted sooner and eaten less Tums.
KC

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Osi Osgood
Film God

Posts: 10204
From: Mountian Home, ID.
Registered: Jul 2005


 - posted July 31, 2008 09:31 PM      Profile for Osi Osgood   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
What's Film-Guard?

(Hows that for an infuriating response?!)

I've never used film guard, but I have used ECCO which didn't really clean as well as I'd hoped, (and made my hands peel a little.), but I have had great success with film Renew.

--------------------
"All these moments will be lost in time, just like ... tears, in the rain. "

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Kim Clark
Junior
Posts: 8
From: Bainbridge Island, WA USA
Registered: Jul 2008


 - posted July 31, 2008 11:45 PM      Profile for Kim Clark   Email Kim Clark   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
There are lots of advocates, and comparisons with other cleaners and/or lubricants, like FilmRenew to keep you reading for daze.

Put out by the fellow behind film-tech.com, I believe.

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Michael O'Regan
Film God

Posts: 3085
From: Essex, UK
Registered: Oct 2007


 - posted August 01, 2008 01:58 AM      Profile for Michael O'Regan   Email Michael O'Regan   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I do wish we could receive FilmRenew over here in the UK now. It is invaluable as a medium in which to bathe old and warped prints for which FilmGuard is not suitable.

-Mike

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Douglas Meltzer
Moderator

Posts: 4554
From: New York, NY, USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted August 01, 2008 08:28 AM      Profile for Douglas Meltzer   Email Douglas Meltzer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Kim,

If you hadn't cleaned the film, that green dye would be in your projector gate, the threading path and on the next film you laced up. Yikes!

Doug

--------------------
I think there's room for just one more film.....

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Chip Gelmini
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1733
From: Brooksville, FL
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted August 01, 2008 09:20 AM      Profile for Chip Gelmini     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I never used any film cleaners until Steve Osborne gave me a sample of FG. I had been warned many years ago, that certain film cleaner chemicals could eat through the mag tracks, destroying the recordings. This is what I had told Steve when he suggested I try FG. He did confirm what I heard was true, but NOT with FG. Next he said pick a 200 footer in my collection and watch it twice, once before and then a second time after FG. He said if I could prove that FG damaged the film, he'd replace the 200 footer.

It took me about 65 hours to do the rest of my collection after of course he was right and I was only being cautious. Now, NOTHING runs through my projectors unless it gets FG first.

* FG = Film Guard

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Michael O'Regan
Film God

Posts: 3085
From: Essex, UK
Registered: Oct 2007


 - posted August 01, 2008 01:40 PM      Profile for Michael O'Regan   Email Michael O'Regan   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I'm not sure I'd be happy with applying FilmGuard (or, for that matter, any other cleaner) routinely to all my prints.

If the print is dirty I'll clean it - otherwise leave it alone. If its not dirty, and runs ok, whats to be gained from applying cleaner??

-Mike

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Chip Gelmini
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1733
From: Brooksville, FL
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted August 01, 2008 09:31 PM      Profile for Chip Gelmini     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Micheal

If you're asking me that question, I think it is important to lubricate films ONCE before a showing. Brad did say that a small portion of his product will last a very long time. I don't clean a print every time I show it...just prior to the first time I show it.

Chip G

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Michael O'Regan
Film God

Posts: 3085
From: Essex, UK
Registered: Oct 2007


 - posted August 02, 2008 01:39 AM      Profile for Michael O'Regan   Email Michael O'Regan   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
That was just a general statement/question.

Wasn't directed at anyone in particular, but, thanks for the reply, Chip.

-Mike

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 525
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted August 02, 2008 05:02 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
The basic benefit on even a brand new print is that when it is cleaned and lubricated, the film will go through your projector smoother, and with less abrasion. Over time even with slight wear and you will start to see black specs of dirt on the film. Also for optical sound prints, it will start to sound like a scratched record, and for magnetic prints you will hear dropouts and decreased treble response.

A simple demo is to take a film that has never been cleaned and start it running through the projector. Make sure the audio and any extra surrounding noise (other than the projector) is silent. Then with a cloth pinch the film very gently between the feed reel and the projector (preferably a couple of feet before it enters the projector). Then give it that second or two and listen to what happens. The film noise chugging through the projector quietens down. You have just lowered the abrasion and wear on the film. [Wink]

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Stewart McSporran
Master Film Handler

Posts: 272
From: Glasgow, Scotland
Registered: Nov 2003


 - posted August 02, 2008 05:04 AM      Profile for Stewart McSporran   Email Stewart McSporran   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I'm with Chip on this one. I run all films I buy through my 16mm converted Kelmar with FilmGuard. Once you see how much muck comes off apparently clean prints you'd never consider doing otherwise!

Also, the cleaned / lubricated prints do run much quieter in the projector.

The only problem I have is that FilmGuard is clearly designed to be applied to the print on every run. To do this you need something like a Kelmar, but I've yet to come up with a practical way of mounting the Kelmar with my 16CL. It's clear it would need to be mounted at 90 degrees to its usual position, with the film entry and exit paths at the bottom.

Anyone actually done this?

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Tom Photiou
Film God

Posts: 4837
From: Plymouth U.K
Registered: Dec 2003


 - posted August 02, 2008 05:38 AM      Profile for Tom Photiou     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Ive just recieved my first ever bottle of filmgauard,
My one and only question,(which i forgot to ask previous), is it ok to use on films which in the past have been cleaned with either 222 or Deranns LFC?

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Chip Gelmini
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1733
From: Brooksville, FL
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted August 02, 2008 08:51 AM      Profile for Chip Gelmini     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Stewart

The Kelmar Cleaner has I-Beam mounting blocks available. On a theater machine for 35mm, the mounting block is placed on the top of the picture head, and the upper arm is attached to the top of the mounting block. Now if you contacted Phil Sheard and asked for a 35mm upper magazine, then removed the magazine doors to expose just the arm, you could do this. Now even though the 35mm shaft at 5/16 is round, a 16mm reel will fit perfectly. You do not need to worry that when a shaft is round not square. My rewinds are 35mm based with super 8 brass adapters. I use the straight 35mm shafts for anything but super 8 and never have a problem.

I tried this with success, although this entire assembly was mounted on an upside down plastic milk crate (used by dairy shipper usually 4 gallons per crate). The milk crate was placed about 1 to 2 feet infront of the projector and a small screen was infront of the projector against the milk crate. This height provided the required clearance and the 16mm film went nicely into the B&H school machine that I used.

I prefer to clean the film with the Kelmar through the rewinds because it is quicker than playing the reel. Although it should be noted that using the Kelmar requires patience as it is designed for slow speed cleaning. Even with rewinds, you must go slow.....VERY SLOW.

****

For those who question on whether or not to clean films at all or how often ask yourself this one question:

Q: Where do you want the dirt to be?

A1: On the cleaning cloths

A2: In your film gate or sound head?

CG [Big Grin]

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Michael O'Regan
Film God

Posts: 3085
From: Essex, UK
Registered: Oct 2007


 - posted August 02, 2008 12:29 PM      Profile for Michael O'Regan   Email Michael O'Regan   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hmmmmmm.........

Well, to each, his own, as they say.

-Mike

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