Joerg Polzfusz
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 815
From: Berlin, Germany, Europe, Earth, Solar System
Registered: Apr 2006
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posted March 01, 2007 09:19 AM
Hi,
first of all: when you don't have a manual for your camera, try this link and scroll down to bottom: http://www.mango-a-gogo.com/show/show.htm
But now some solutions for your sound problem:
a) Pre-striped films in sound-cartridges aren't available anymore. You can bypass by getting raw super8-film, get it pre-striped at fipra and then load it into old sound-carts (Agfa carts are reported to be the best for this purpose) or into a SuperDrive or a SuperMag400 yourself. Unfortunately the SuperMag/SuperDrive won't work with your camera and are out of production. Even worse: Using fipra's pre-striping-service will increase the price per meter by 1 or 1,50 EUR.
b) The analogue way:
Version 1) Some cameras will start and stop a connected tape- or reel-to-reel-recorder together with the film. This works well enough when your scenes are only 30s or 60s long.
Version 2) Extension of 'Version 1': The camera will also send one signal per frame. This signal is either used to set the speed of perforated tape correctly in a specialized recorder. Or the signal is converted into a beep that's recorded on the left channel while the right channel records the sound (in mono only) (some system will use the right channel for the beeps and the left for the sound). The holes or the beeps are later used for synchronized playback during projection, too.
Version 3) Some cameras neither start nor stop recorders, but they do have a 'flash sync'-connector. This 'flash sync'-connector gives a signal per frame as in version 2). But you'll have to use a clapper board at the start AND end of each scene to match the beginning of the scene to the recorded sound later on.
Version 4) Combination of 1 and 3) Your camera isn't connected to your recorder by any means. So you'll use a clapper board to mark the beginning and end of each scene on the tape and on the film. This still works good enough for shorter scenes (less than 30s).
c) The digital way:
Version 1) You get your camera crystal sync'ed and use a digital recorder. Both device are now using exactly the same speed. So you'll only have to use a clapper-board to mark the beginning of each scene.
Version 2) Improved Version 1: When your camera is able to start and stop a tape-recorder, you might use these signals to start and stop your digital recorder as well. This saves you from using a clapper board to mark the scenes.
Version 3) Simply use any of the above analogue methods in combination with a digital recorder.
'With Beeps': There is a windows-program that'll convert a stereo-wav-file with beeps on one channel into a mono-wav-file that has been altered to match speed-differences recorded by the beeps.
'Without Beeps': Count the frames between the clap at the start and at the end of each scene. Now divide that number with the selected speed and you've got the running length. Either your recorded sound matches that length. Or you'll use one of a dozent programs for windows, linux, macOS, unix, Dos, ... to make your way-file match that length. Since those programs are using the WSOLA-algorithm (like the 'with beeps'-proggy), you won't notice a change in the pitch. And when your camera's batteries are at least half full, the camera won't change it's speed that much when only shooting scenes not longer than 1min. So the 'matched wav-file' will nearly perfectly fit the images. (Counting the frames can be done by using an accurate frame-counter (already found in some projectors or as an add-on for several viewers), by using a ruler (1 frame = 4.23mm) or by getting a frame-by-frame transfer onto DV-tape or DVD and then taking a look at the time-ruler, e.g. in Adobe Premiere.)
When you've got access to a Nagra or Uher Report or some high-end-mc-recorders you can use these analogue recorders like in the 'digital version 3' as long as you transfer the recorded sound onto your computer later on.
Projection of the 'digital versions':
a) You can transfer the digital sound onto a perfotape.
b) Some projectors can easily be crystal sync'ed, so all you have to do is to synchronize the projector's start with the start of your CD/DVD/MP3/DAT/MiniDisc-player or computer.
c) You can buy some CD-players that adjust their playback-speed to the 'signals per frame' send by the projector. You won't notice a pitch-change here, too, due to the usage of the WSOLA-algorithm.
That's it from my side,
Jörg
[ March 02, 2007, 10:51 AM: Message edited by: Joerg Polzfusz ]
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