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Author
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Topic: Projector manuals needed
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Steve Klare
Film Guy
Posts: 7016
From: Long Island, NY, USA
Registered: Jun 2003
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posted September 23, 2008 06:21 PM
Hello Ethem,
I still own my SP-80 Special. It is a reliable performer and has served me well for 6 years now. In the world of movie projectors it's more like a VW Beetle than a Ferrari, but a Beetle is more likely to get you where you are going than a Ferrari, so that's not bad!
It's got some nice features, like for example it has a pre-heat for the projection lamp which should make it last longer. It is kind of funky in certain respects: the lever that operates the 24/18 FPS is located so you have to remove the takeup reel to change frame rates. This gets a little cumbersome when you discover you need to change while you are already threaded up. It is however continuously variable, which is handy for DIY telecine.
As far as inspection methods: Run the machine through its two forward and two reverse modes and see that the correct reel is turning and the lamp lights brightly when it should (Otherwise it should light dimly in pre-heat). Secure yourself a sound film you really hate so you won't mind seeing it shredded. Run it and check the sound, rewind it and run it again looking for new scratches (take notes.) Bonus points to you if you splice a loop of scrap film through the projection path and run it at least 10 times without damage. There is an internal electric cooling fan. Whenever you have the machine plugged in you should hear it moving air.
The sound head is a little complicated to clean. Here are methods provided by Paul Adsett. I've tried them both and reccomend them:
METHOD 1: (for a quick clean). The sound head is located right underneath the Bulb. It has a white cable coming out of it, which plugs into a receptacle on the chassis. For a real quick clean, taker a can of air duster and blast air down into the teflon film chute at the front of the sound head asembly. This will blow out any loose oxide particles in the sound head. This process is recommended after every couple of reels, to keep oxide from building up inside the head assembly.
METHOD 2: ( FOR A THOROUGH CLEAN, THIS PROCEDURE TAKES ABOUT 30 MINUTES, AND REQUIRES DISSASSEMBLY OF THE SOUND HEAD).
1. Set the control knob to the Forward position then pull off the black control knob at the side of the projector. Remove the lamp housing cover.
2. Pull off the volume control knob and the mixing control knob.
3. Undo the screw located between the volume control knob and the mixing knob, and pull the side panel forward and out to expose the inside of the projector.
4. Unplug the sound head, then undo the single screw which bolts the sound head to the chassis wall.
5. Remove the sound head.
6. Look at the sound head. There are a total of 6 screws in view. Do NOT touch the four innermost screws , they are used for the critical elevation and azimuth aligment of the sound head to the magnetic tracks on the film. Undo the 2 outer screws to remove only the MU-METAL magnetic shield, and the pressure pad assembly. You now have total access to the heads and pressure pads for a thorough cleaning with alcohol. Be very gentle in wiping the head areas. You may wish to de-magnetize the heads while you are at it, using a Radio Shack tape- head demagnetizing probe. Also polish the film channel and pressure pads with Pledge or Favor furniture polish.
7. After cleaning, reassemle the mu-metal shield and pressure pad assembly to the head, and tighten down the 2 outermost screws.
8. Align locating hole on the sound head with the pin in the chassis, and bolt back into place with the single screw. Plug the sound head back into the wall connector.
9. Reassemble the side panel, audio knobs, and Main control knob. Return the control knob to the OFF position
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All I ask is a wide screen and a projector to light her by...
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