8mm Forum: Newbie questions.

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Topic: Newbie questions.

William Hatfield
Junior
Posts: 8
From: Reno, Nevada, USA
Registered: Sep 2011

posted October 28, 2011 09:39 AM

Hi,

I have a 8mm only projector and bought some commercial 8mm format movies. Problem is that they are wound on super8 reels (the film itself is double 8).

1) What is the best way to rewind these onto 8mm reels? My editor and projector are both regular double 8 only. The super 8 wont fit tight, as you know.

2) My projector has a built in splicer, and I now have the instructions how to splice. It has a half full bottle of slicing fluid which looks good but I'm sure I should not use decades old fluid. Where and what should I buy to use as the splicing fluid? Obvioulsly I have a cheapo real that I'm going to practice on before splicing some of my better films.

3) Some of my reel cans (that came with films I bought) will not fit in my storage case (Logan metal cases). The right diameter but slightly too thick. I need to buy some reel cans but the online dealers don't give the dimensions of the cans (i.e. the width, they do give the diameter of course). I wonder how to insure I get reel cans thin enough when I buy some online?

This is all new to me (although I do shoot lots of film regularly, but never movie film). I don't do digital except for a $15 dollar used Olympus to post Ebay pictures, etc.

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Bill Brandenstein
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1632
From: California
Registered: Aug 2007

posted October 28, 2011 10:08 PM

Hi William, I'll jump in here.

First of all, let me make sure we're on the same footing with a matter of semantics. Double 8 usually refers to the camera film used for regular/standard 8mm because it's 16mm wide and is run through the camera twice, once in each direction. Once it's slit by the processing lab, it's no longer considered "double." So correct me if I'm wrong, but we're dealing with good ol' 8mm with the big sprocket holes.

1) So, that means you've reels with big spindle holes and a projector with a small spindle. The good news is that you don't have to change out the reels at all. All you need is a spindle adapter like you see at the top of this linked page.

2) I've always bought my splicing cement from Urbanski Film Supplies, where for about $5 you get a nice clear bottle that Larry repackages himself. But I now see that on the Momentcatcher page linked above, they have Kodak-branded cement for slightly more. It's the same stuff either way.

As for whether or not to use old cement, I'm not sure. If the splices hold, then why not? If the solvent hasn't dried up, it really ought to be OK. I've got some old Craig cement -- like 50 years old -- that I've never tried. Anyway, at the very least you can certainly experiment on your junk film with it.

3) This is going to be a trial-and-error situation. The best thing is to take a measurement and see if you can get a supplier to do the same.

Now, let me rain on your parade a little bit and call into question this idea of using the Logan storage chest. Yes, they are super cool and retro. However, long-term film storage is best done in boxes, or better, archival plastic cans that "breathe." The only time a sealed can is preferable is if the environment is hostile (wet, dusty).

If others disagree or have better ideas, hopefully they'll come along soon. Otherwise, welcome to a time-consuming but rewarding hobby, and good success as you get started!

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Bryan Chernick
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 654
From: Bothell, WA, USA
Registered: Mar 2010

posted October 29, 2011 12:24 AM

Don't use the yellow cement, it won't hold well. You can get new cement at B & H Photo:

Film cement

Plastic cases don't usually fit in the metal chests. You will need to pick up some old metal ones. They have Logan reels on ebay all the time. I store my films in the metal cases and chests. It may not be the best way but I'm not worried about it. I find films at estate sales that have been stored that way for decades that are in perfect condition. Most of my films are home movies not commercial films. It seems like the commercial films tend to have more problems with longevity.

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John Davis
Master Film Handler

Posts: 286
From: Dunfermline, Fife, UK
Registered: Jun 2008

posted October 29, 2011 06:18 AM

I'm like Bill and don't have an issue using old cement provided it works - when I first started cement splicing about 15 years ago I bought a new bottle of cement and it's still on my shelf as I try to work my way through two bottles of pretty old Agfa Cinecol (I'm about halfway through the first bottle!).
In my experience the weak point in splicing is often the splicer itself, I've seem some dire splicers - my current favourite is the French made Marguet I have two and they are both excellent, most are able to splice 16mm and 9.5mm too. You can sometimes find these cheap on eBay as they are often sold by people not familiar with the brand and mispelled as 'Arguet' because the 'M' in the logo is so large it's mistaken as the design. Also sometimes described as 'Colleuse' rather than 'splicer'
John

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William Hatfield
Junior
Posts: 8
From: Reno, Nevada, USA
Registered: Sep 2011

posted October 29, 2011 10:40 PM

Thanks everybody.

Since I see here different opinions about sealing the storages, how about this: I drill couple holes in back of Logan box and insert rubber gromments in holes. Gromments are made for vintage thin wall aluminum radio chasis (to feed electric wires through), they are enlarged on both sides of the aluminum and look nice when installed because then you can't see the hole edges (covered by the enlarged rubber).

I could then drill a couple teeny 1/32 inch holes in the film cans.

Thanks for all the tips, all my questions are answered!
Yes, I agree the metal cans and chests are cool!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NRF052

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Lee Mannering
Film God

Posts: 3216
From: The Projection Box
Registered: Nov 2006

posted October 30, 2011 08:18 AM

John. My old cement splices have all held out very well made in the 70's before I switched to tape (Wurker)

Welcome William! [Cool]

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