This is topic Quartz Halogen Lamp to MR16 Halogen Conversion - GAF / Elmo FP Series in forum 8mm Forum at 8mm Forum.
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Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on August 31, 2012, 02:13 PM:
We all know the short-comings of the expensive and limited life cycle of the quartz halogen bulbs. I just started my attempt to do my own conversion. So far I have successfully tested the socket wiring connections and as you can see from the photos below...it worked.
My next step is to devise a riser/platform to mount and position the socket at the proper height. I was hoping that one of you creative engineers out there might have a suggestion to how I might do this and the kind of materials I need. Most of these type of mounts are made of metal...but I'm thinking plastic or vinyl might be just as durable and easier to work with. Any suggestion?
Posted by Graham Ritchie (Member # 559) on August 31, 2012, 03:13 PM:
Janice
Well done in giving it a go Can you provide more details, ie is the lamp replacement a higher wattage etc. Mounting a lamp like that would be safer using steel, plus you need to direct efficient cooling through some kind of lamp enclosure. It might be an idea to find a scrap projector that could have the bits you need, just an idea.
The photo shows a bright white light...and thats good, the thing is just remember where there is lots of light there is lots of heat as well, so be careful.
Graham.
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on August 31, 2012, 05:45 PM:
Here's a little more detail...
I have two models of projectors that should be good candidates for the conversion...the GAF Anscovision series and the B&H Lumina series. GAF has produced some models with this upgrade already done and the same for the B&H Lumina. I'm replacing the original bulb with the same 80W 30V halogen equivalent (ELB or ENA).
Here are the two projectors I have that already have the lamp upgrades.
Here is the GAF projector I'm working on now with the socket removed. This shows the metal base plate that I want to mount a shelf to attach the socket base elevated to the proper height.
I think I'd rather come up with a solution that doesn't require scavenging another projector. I just need to find the right parts. This might take a bit of searching...but I know other's have done it.
I'm open to any and all input.
Posted by Pasquale DAlessio (Member # 2052) on August 31, 2012, 07:41 PM:
Well done Jan!
Go to this link and sniff around!
http://www.bulbtronics.com/Search-The-Warehouse/ProductDetail.aspx?sid=0006567&pid=BW865R986&Source=SearchResults
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 01, 2012, 12:43 PM:
Pat, that site has a lot of lamps and sockets...which I already have. I think at this stage I'm imagining a small box with a large hole drilled in the middle for the wires to go thru and small holes for the screws to attach the socket and box to the base. I may need to fabricate something.
Posted by Pasquale DAlessio (Member # 2052) on September 01, 2012, 12:46 PM:
OOPS! What about an "L" bracket?
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 01, 2012, 08:17 PM:
I'm not sure an L-Bracket is enough. How were you envisioning to attach the base of the socket? I've found some small ABS project boxes with metal tops at Radio Shack...I'm going to give one a try.
I was also thinking of using 4 metal spacers attached to metal platform that the socket base could sit on.
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 06, 2012, 12:49 PM:
I finally got the socket positioned on the projector. I used a small project box enclosure I bought from Radio Shack. It's made of ABS plastic and has an aluminum lid. I drilled holes in the box to match up with the holes on the projector lamp base....attached the box to the base and the socket to the box. It's very secure...it's not going anywhere
Here are the pictures of the finished project. The light doesn't get as hot as the old light even though it's the same wattage. I'm just happy that it cut down the cost for replacement bulbs from $50 to about $16 ....OH, one more thing... not including my time...the conversion cost about $10.
Posted by Graham Ritchie (Member # 559) on September 06, 2012, 02:09 PM:
Janice
Well done
Posted by Akshay Nanjangud (Member # 2828) on September 06, 2012, 02:15 PM:
Superb!
Posted by Paul Adsett (Member # 25) on September 06, 2012, 02:19 PM:
Well done Janice! It's fun to convert old projectors to a modern lighting system, and save money on new lamps!
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 06, 2012, 06:30 PM:
Thanks guys!
Posted by Pasquale DAlessio (Member # 2052) on September 06, 2012, 08:10 PM:
Janice....you are the BOMB! If you are ever in the market for a husband I would like to apply for the job!
That is excellent work. Very professional looking. The APS will never melt that's for sure.
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 06, 2012, 10:16 PM:
You'll have to get in line Igor...with skills like this I have suitors lining up in my driveway ...and I can cook too
Posted by Joe Balitzki (Member # 438) on September 06, 2012, 10:54 PM:
Rumor has it that Janice was screen tested to be a future Bond Girl...
Posted by Akshay Nanjangud (Member # 2828) on September 06, 2012, 10:57 PM:
Joe is mistaken, she auditioned for the role of Q. Now the producers and Daniel Craig are insisting she play the Bond Girl.
Posted by Dino Everette (Member # 1378) on September 07, 2012, 12:31 AM:
God bless the QLV-1! !! !
I cannot tell you how often I have used them...I m currently dropping one in an old 1915 POWERS 6A 35mm silent projector so I can hand crank a film for about 300 undergrad film students at USC.
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 07, 2012, 09:44 AM:
Yes Dino...that little socket is terrific. I just stumbled upon it in a Google search. I just need to find more ways to mount it on other projectors. I'd love to see how you are doing this.
Bond girl?...LOL...What a nice compliment, but at my age I'd probably be a Bond girls mom
Posted by Jon Addams (Member # 816) on September 08, 2012, 12:59 PM:
quote:
Bond girl?...LOL...What a nice compliment, but at my age I'd probably be a Bond girls mom
-------------------
Congratulations Janice, excellent work.
Jon
Posted by Jean-Marc Toussaint (Member # 270) on September 08, 2012, 01:18 PM:
Superb job, Janice.
Posted by Tony Stucchio (Member # 519) on September 08, 2012, 06:54 PM:
I agree, nice job!
I suppose it is possible to upgrade to a lamp with a different voltage, too, but I think that is a bit more complex, correct? Many otherwise fine projectors could use a wattage upgrade to get a brighter picture, which more often than not would require a voltage change.
Posted by Dino Everette (Member # 1378) on September 11, 2012, 03:43 PM:
Ah...janice keep watching this space, as I finished putting the QLV-1 into the Powers 6A at work and shot a little video...i will upload it when I get home tonight....
Posted by Manuel Tapia (Member # 3249) on September 11, 2012, 03:56 PM:
Crongat Jenice,
Great job i'm in the middle to convert my B&H from DJL to ESD bulb, so this post is very helpful for me !!!
Thanks!
Posted by Paul Adsett (Member # 25) on September 11, 2012, 04:14 PM:
Just be careful when contemplating a lamp upgrade on a projector. It is best to resist the temptation to use a higher wattage lamp than the OEM lamp. Higher wattage means higher current, which can wipe out the transformer, and of course higher wattage also means higher heat dissipation within the projector, and that will require an increase in the forced air cooling, by adding or using a bigger blower.
Many GS1200 owners, myself included, have been tempted to use the 250 watt ELC lamp in place of the existing 200 watt ESC. I have tried it, and the ELC produces an incredibly bright white light, far better than the ESC, but its just not worth the risk of burning out the transformer.
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 11, 2012, 04:31 PM:
I agree Paul...I used the same wattage lamp in my conversion. Changing voltage is a lot more complicated and better to stick with the original wattage.
Posted by Manuel Tapia (Member # 3249) on September 11, 2012, 04:47 PM:
I think janice is looking the same as me, use a cheaper bulb and better life time , isn't it janice ?
Posted by Tony Stucchio (Member # 519) on September 11, 2012, 08:24 PM:
Thanks -- so I guess it is safe to stick to the same wattage but if you go from incandescent to halogen you will get a brighter picture.
Posted by Tony Stucchio (Member # 519) on September 14, 2012, 11:11 PM:
Has anyone attempted to upgrade from a CXR in a Bolex 18-5? The CXRs are getting a bit expensive now. Also, how about upgrading from a DLG for a B&H 370 8mm? Those bulbs cost $80 now! I hope the EFP, EFR and ELCs stay at a reasonable price.
thanks
Posted by Manuel Tapia (Member # 3249) on September 14, 2012, 11:59 PM:
Tony you can try the EJA Bulb only 8 USD
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BULBAMERICA-EJA-150-watt s-21-volts-MR16-light-bulb-/140820291278?pt=US_Light_Bulbs&hash=item20c98b1ece
or an EKE but EJA is 3400°K vs 3300°K in EKE
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EKE-Sylvania-54842-EKE-Projector-Light-Bulb-/261041483034?pt=US_Light_Bulbs&hash=item3cc748ed1a
Posted by Winbert Hutahaean (Member # 58) on September 15, 2012, 06:34 AM:
Toni, EFP and EFR are used in many places beside the projector. So the price will remain the same.
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 15, 2012, 10:53 AM:
The EFM (50W-8V)is a good conversion replacement bulb for the CXR. When I have some time I might try converting one of my Sankyo machines.
Posted by Gerald Santana (Member # 2362) on September 15, 2012, 12:28 PM:
I'm also interested in knowing what will replace the DLG on my Sears Tower. Those are nice models with a 1.2 lens and an inexpensive belt to replace. Like Tony mentioned, the DLG lamp can be rare and costly.
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 15, 2012, 06:01 PM:
As far as an equivalent bulb goes.... either the EKE or EJV are both 21V 150W.
Posted by Gerald Santana (Member # 2362) on September 15, 2012, 08:03 PM:
Thanks Janice! So is this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OSRAM-TP41-lamp-holder-GX5-3-EKE-ELC-DED-FVL-EXY-socket-/130702030197 the only component I'll need besides the lamp to make the switch?
Posted by Tony Stucchio (Member # 519) on September 15, 2012, 09:20 PM:
Thanks All.
Gerald -- I think the hardest part is to mount the new lamp in the correct position with the new socket -- so you do need another part.
Janice,
I know you used a project box -- but how did you get it in the exact position so the light is focused on the frame?
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 15, 2012, 11:44 PM:
I just measured the distance from the base to the center of the frame in the gate and raised socket mount so that the center of the lamp was in line with the frame. The box I used just happened to be very close to the height I needed. In my case it didn't have to be perfect...at least in the GAF it wasn't critical.
Posted by Tony Stucchio (Member # 519) on September 16, 2012, 07:11 PM:
Oh, so the socket mount is adjustable -- I didn't know that.
Thanks, Janice.
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 16, 2012, 08:57 PM:
I guess I'm not explaining it properly. The socket mount is not adjustable. The height was determined by the height of the box it was mounted on.
Posted by Dino Everette (Member # 1378) on September 16, 2012, 11:09 PM:
Gerald I would advise you get one of these as they are much better and only $4 and they work for so many different wattage bulbs you can buy a batch of them and never need anything else.
QLV-1
Posted by Tony Stucchio (Member # 519) on September 17, 2012, 08:02 PM:
Janice,
So the box was already the right height -- I guess you're just a lucky gal!
I never have that kind of luck.
Thanks
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 17, 2012, 08:16 PM:
Tony...You can also adjust the height using metal spacers.
Dino...the QLV-1 is great...but it won't fit into some projectors. It's either too wide or too long. I tried it in my B&H MX33 and it's just a tad too wide so the cover won't fit back on. In this case I'll have to use just the porcelain socket.
Posted by Tony Stucchio (Member # 519) on September 17, 2012, 08:45 PM:
Thanks, Janice.
All I have had time to do so far is take a quick look at both projectors. (B&H 370 and Bolex 18-5.) The one I would really like to convert is the Bolex. That one currently has 2 wires leading to the lamp -- one seems to be some sort of ground wire though since it doesn't seem to connect to the metal plate that gives the lamp its electricity. So I'm not really sure how to proceed.
With the B&H, I would wind up having more wattage and brighter picture -- so that may be worth a try. In both cases, in addition to the socket, I would need to get a lamp holder/mount as well, then figure out how to get it to the right position. The project box would probably give me a great start. If anyone has done this to either projector, please let us know lessons learned.
thanks
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 17, 2012, 10:48 PM:
Tony...usually one wire goes to the transformer (power) and the other goes to the selector switch.
Dino...I just realized I could separate the socket from the mount on the QLV-1. It was easy. I just used a nail punch and hammer and gently pushed the rivet out...no damage to the socket.
Posted by Tony Stucchio (Member # 519) on September 18, 2012, 05:52 PM:
Thanks
Posted by Michael Wright (Member # 1387) on September 25, 2012, 08:47 AM:
Hi Janice Iam planning to convert a 9.5mm Specto projector to use a more modern lamp. The current lamp is rated 30 volts so the lamps you used in your conversion would match the existing transformer etc. I've never heard of the ELB or ENA lamps, do you know what the difference is? Thanks MIKE
Posted by Paul Adsett (Member # 25) on September 25, 2012, 09:29 AM:
Is this the same socket that is used in the Elmo GS1200? Sure looks like it.
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 26, 2012, 01:42 AM:
I really don't know what the difference between the ELB vs. ENA/EKP...but I've noticed that sometimes the base of the bulb is a different shape.
http://1000bulbs.com/product/1431/STAG-ELB.html
http://1000bulbs.com/product/1433/STAG-EKP.html
Posted by Gerald Santana (Member # 2362) on September 26, 2012, 04:01 PM:
After the weekend, I received the QLV1 and a new belt for the Sears Tower 584. This morning, I had time to work on the conversion and found a simple way to mount the lamp holder onto the projector.
First I tried an EFP 12v 100w and it blew out once I hit the lamp. Then, I went for a EFN 12v 75w and that one also blew out! I have many of these lamps and thought they would work but, I guess not.
So, which lamps am I supposed to use with the QLV1?
Almost there!
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 26, 2012, 04:41 PM:
Gerald, unless you are talking about a different projector..didn't you say the previous bulb was 21V 150W? The bulb needs to match the same voltage to match the same output of the transformer in your projector which would be the EKE. I think the QLV1 will handle up to 120V 400W.
Posted by Gerald Santana (Member # 2362) on September 26, 2012, 07:38 PM:
Hi Janice, it's the same projector. After looking around, I found this link: http://www.replacementlightbulbs.com/lampsocketqlv1.html
I had a EJL, put that in and it worked...however now there are problems with the speed of the projector after replacing the belt. It's stuck at around 18 to 20fps. On the "bright" side, my conversion is also done.
Posted by Winbert Hutahaean (Member # 58) on September 26, 2012, 08:20 PM:
Gerald, with all due respect, what was in your mind to put a 12v bulb on 21v projector?
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 26, 2012, 08:46 PM:
Great Gerald! I feel like I've started the CONVERSION WAVE
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on September 26, 2012, 11:09 PM:
Gerald I just checked the voltage on the EJL bulb you mentioned. DO NOT USE IT....it's 24V 200W.
Only use a EKE or EJV.
Posted by George Tveden (Member # 3379) on April 07, 2013, 12:30 AM:
Marriage made in projection heaven with QLV-1 matched to G17Q base. All you need is G17Q base, QLV-1 socket, masking tape, solder, JB Weld, spring clamp and a G17Q jig. Break any old G17Q base lamp such as DJL, DLH, DCH, DJA, DFN, ect. Clean glass down to base rim. Break out the corresponding rear electrical contact pins from the base. Use masking tape to cover open holes in G17Q base. Solder QLV-1 leads to fit as the new pins in the G17Q base. Use a needle or pin to poke a small hole centered the in tape covering the base openings. Place Base in an matching socket out of old parts projector. Push tinned leads down through the tape and base, into the socket. J-B weld it in the jig. Clamp it. After setting, pop the new lamp module out, and put the appropriate MR16 rated lamp corresponding with the wattage and voltage of the original lamp application. DJL= ESD, EZK, JCR/150/120, etc; DLH= ENH etc. Just that simple. Works like a champ! Good luck!
Remember, this information is for private use only. No commercial application or permission for commercial production of this design will be allowed or tolerated. A patent has been applied for this lamp module design. Intellectual property rights covering this device and any process for making it will be rigorously protected. Have fun making your own plug-in module for private use though!
[ April 30, 2013, 09:56 PM: Message edited by: George Tveden ]
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on April 07, 2013, 12:47 AM:
George this sounds great...but next time you do a conversion like this could you take some incremental photos to go along with your instructions. I'd like to try it...but I'm having trouble visualizing some of the steps.
Posted by Bruce Wright (Member # 2793) on April 07, 2013, 02:51 AM:
Sounds great. I'd like to try it but I would need a video.
Janice? With sound! BW
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on April 07, 2013, 03:59 AM:
Bruce....Don't look at me It's George's design. If I knew how to do it...I would make a video
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on April 08, 2013, 03:51 AM:
The Elmo FP-A projectors generally used a DCA (150W 21.5V) lamp. However, I discovered when I bought an FP-A projector for parts that it had a Halogen MR16 EJM (150W 21V) lamp. This must have been the Deluxe Model. So I removed all the lamp components from the junker and transfered them to my original FP-A projector.
Here is what the conversion looks like.
My Elmo FP-A
This is what the Junker FP-A Deluxe model looks like;
The original DCA lamp:
The converted halogen EJM lamp:
Nice bright projected picture:
Posted by Barry Fritz (Member # 1865) on April 08, 2013, 04:08 AM:
I don't recall where I saw it just recently, maybe eBay, but it was a conversion socket just like George made and they were asking $300.00 for it.
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on April 08, 2013, 05:52 AM:
WOW...$300. It doesn't sound that complicated. I want to try and make one. Maybe I'll understand the instructions better once I start...but I get a little confused with the "jig" part of the instructions. I hope George posts some more pics.
Posted by George Tveden (Member # 3379) on April 09, 2013, 05:14 AM:
Hi Janice and Barry,
Ummm... I'm the guy selling those on eBay and my website too. Barry, you were about $225.00 over the actual price though. I wish I was getting those prices. lol. It does take a few hours to make them, and the jig is the key of course. Although I'm a newbie here, I like the concept of this forum and the enthusiasm of the members. Although it would be easier and probably cheaper to buy one, it's a lot more fun to make one. That is why I wanted to show the plug-in module. I do make how to video's for YouTube and my website. I will send photo and print instructions for the jig free to any 8mm Forum member for private use only. Just send me a message with your email.
Posted by Janice Glesser (Member # 2758) on April 09, 2013, 06:39 AM:
I PM'd you George
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