posted November 01, 2015 10:29 AM
I wouldn't pay that for what looks like only a back projection system, although a better than average one (I assume the "shatter proof tag would mean it has a metal mirror not glass so no double images). Also saying "Assembled in USA" not made would imply the parts were imported.
I would think the camera and projector would decide the quality either way. As long as the camera and projector you use are close together and used with the maximum distance from the screen parallax errors should be small. I would think a direct telecine, without any screen, would be the only one to make a really noticeable increase in quality over what you are doing now.
Posts: 1061
From: Burnsville, MN, USA
Registered: Dec 2009
posted November 01, 2015 10:50 AM
I would stick with the wall. Make certain that the paper you are using is the brightest that you can find. The brightness number can be found on the ream wrapper. A brightness of 96 is good. If the wall you are projecting to is a darker color, pin two thicknesses of paper to the wall so there is not chance of the darker wall color bleeding through the paper.
Posts: 1269
From: Thetford , Norfolk,England
Registered: May 2008
posted November 01, 2015 10:51 AM
Keep your money in your pocket, Bill! Been there, done that, got the T-Shirt..... you're on the right track already. Martin
-------------------- Retired TV Service Engineer Ongoing interest in Telecine....
Posts: 287
From: Poughkeepsie, NY USA
Registered: Jun 2010
posted November 02, 2015 09:49 AM
If you're going to transfer film using telecine, it's best to use a device that creates an aerial image. A Buhl Multiplexer is best. They are rare.