Posts: 76
From: Hvidovre, Copenhagen, Denmark
Registered: Jun 2013
posted December 12, 2016 02:06 PM
My Eumig cannot obtain speed ( 15 fps / 21 fps ) Disc drive sanded and cleaned with alcohol. Still it wont to obtain right speed.
Driveshaft driven by hand seems normal ! Motorspindel can be stopped in action, when I lighty press the motor( spindle ) against the discdrive!
Where is my problem ?
Weak/faulty motor and can I "clean " this motor ?
If anyone out there can help, I would be very pleased.
Posts: 76
From: Hvidovre, Copenhagen, Denmark
Registered: Jun 2013
posted December 17, 2016 10:49 AM
Thanks Andrew This was new to me. It seems to me, that theese models from the early 60 s. Has a slightly weaker motor or just plain " tired" due to age.
This can hopefully help other members in this great forum.
Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012
posted December 17, 2016 10:50 AM
That's the idea Niels with these type of posts, I agree. Congratulations once again my friend on your accomplishment.
-------------------- "C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"
posted December 17, 2016 06:54 PM
I have found that wiping the rubber drive discs with a little automobile belt dressing applied to a Q-tip, seems to renew the rubber and restore the running speed.
-------------------- The best of all worlds- 8mm, super 8mm, 9.5mm, and HD Digital Projection, Elmo GS1200 f1.0 2-blade Eumig S938 Stereo f1.0 Ektar Panasonic PT-AE4000U digital pj
Posts: 955
From: Johnshaven Village , Montrose, Scotland
Registered: Jan 2015
posted December 18, 2016 05:24 AM
The main problem with older rubber disc driven Eumigs is that over time a groove is formed in the disc and this leads to speed problems. Its a shame there is no simple solution such as spraying some form of rubber solution into the groove.
-------------------- " My equipment's more important than your rats. "
Posts: 5895
From: Bristol. United Kingdom
Registered: Oct 2007
posted December 18, 2016 05:41 AM
We must not forget that Niels' Eumig Mark S could now be over fifty years old as this model was marketed in 1965. It's great that it now appears to be running satisfactorily.
Posts: 955
From: Johnshaven Village , Montrose, Scotland
Registered: Jan 2015
posted December 18, 2016 05:47 AM
Yes Maurice my own Marks S is still chugging away. It has speed problems too but gets up to speed when warmed up. I let it run for a few minutes when I get it started before threading up. It is so old it needs a "hand crank" to get it going.
A bit like a vintage motor car. Still its amazing it still works and has sound. I still love it !
-------------------- " My equipment's more important than your rats. "
Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012
posted December 18, 2016 05:57 AM
Not so much in these early years, but certainly on all of their later models, its such a pity that Eumig being the experts in the field that they undoubtedly were, did not move away from this archaic friction wheel driven design that they stuck with right until the very end.
Had they had gone down the dc electronic driven route, their fabulous on board sound capabilities and recording facilities could have been fully realized as well as playback irregularities such as these,would have been completely eliminated.
-------------------- "C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"
posted December 18, 2016 11:19 AM
I have to agree with you there Andrew. I think if Eumig had set their sites on producing a projector like the GS1200 or Beaulieu, it would have been a stunning machine.
-------------------- The best of all worlds- 8mm, super 8mm, 9.5mm, and HD Digital Projection, Elmo GS1200 f1.0 2-blade Eumig S938 Stereo f1.0 Ektar Panasonic PT-AE4000U digital pj
Posts: 506
From: Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK
Registered: Mar 2016
posted December 18, 2016 03:05 PM
I've a couple of projectors which had this problem when I bought them. I wouldn't sand the rubber disks. I cleaned mine with 100% Isopropyl Alcohol. Then I stood the projector on its front and brushed brake fluid onto the front disk. This was left overnight to soak in. The next day, I wiped off the surplus, stood the machine on its back and repeated the process. Worked well and I haven't needed to do anything to them since.
Posts: 506
From: Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK
Registered: Mar 2016
posted December 18, 2016 05:03 PM
It's not my original idea, David, but one I saw suggested on another site when searching for advice. The brake fluid could be causing the rubber to expand. The braking system on a car has loads of rubber seals and washers so the fluid shouldn't do any harm to the rubber disks. Use plenty of kitchen paper towel under the disks when brushing the brake fluid on though in case it drips, as it can be corrosive to paint and copper apparently.
Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012
posted December 18, 2016 05:15 PM
I'd make sure if you are placing brake fluid on rubber friction linings, that it is the Glycol-Ether type and not the silicone or Mineral Oil based ones!
I'd imagine any solvent would do a job here of rejuvenating the surface of the rubber.
At the end of the day, all you are requiring, is to remove any shiny hardened glaze or lubricant from the surface to reinstate the frictional properties of the rubber again. That is why using wet & dry or fine emery cloth does a great job also.
-------------------- "C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"
Posts: 506
From: Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK
Registered: Mar 2016
posted December 18, 2016 06:22 PM
Whilst using Wet & Dry or fine emery paper would reduce surface glaze, there is the danger that over-zealous use with too hard a grade could remove some of the rubber coating which is the last thing you want. What grades would you suggest using if you were to go down this route?
posted December 21, 2016 12:38 PM
The driven discs may not be the main problem.
There are more things to observe. One is that the motor has plain bearings which obviously run dry. If one feels resistance on twisting the motor spindle (unplug projector from the mains), the bearings are up. It’s not possible to lubricate them from outside. The motor must be disassembled. Machining for ball bearings is strongly advised.
Two, the motor is rocked in two directions, two studs of it are held in plastic parts that can disintegrate. If that’s the case, the drive is gone altogether. Here’s a pair of replacement holders a mechanic once made for me of POM. These can be slipped right into the cast metal frame and the motor put back between them.
In case of interest I can have more rhomboids made and send them out. One would look at probably $40 for a pair plus shipping.
Again, the motor bearings represent the bigger problem, so I’d switch to an other projector for Regular-Eight film. With 8-S the choice of sound projectors appears to be smaller but I think the investments are well worth it to a heavy user.
Posts: 506
From: Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK
Registered: Mar 2016
posted December 21, 2016 04:19 PM
Replacement motor mounts are also available from Van Eck Video Services. See http://shop.van-eck.net/PP-0138.html. The plastic which holds the mounts just falls apart with age like the feet.