posted August 18, 2019 05:24 PM
I recently found a Bolex 18-5L projector in my parent's home and, since I was the one to operate it back in the day, plugged it in. I ran for a few seconds before stopping. The bulb never went on but I guess that's expected. I removed the fuse and the hair inside seems intact. I went ahead and took out the other cover and a small part that looks like a tiny propeller fell out. I don't know where that goes or if that's the reason it's not working. The three belts look great. I was so excited to watch our old family movies!!!
Posts: 5895
From: Bristol. United Kingdom
Registered: Oct 2007
posted August 19, 2019 03:24 AM
Maria I assume you mean an 18-5L. I don't know this projector, but the "tiny propeller" is the fan. But as Nantawat says, does the motor run at all? http://www.bolexcollector.com/projectors/185l.html
Posts: 5895
From: Bristol. United Kingdom
Registered: Oct 2007
posted August 19, 2019 03:03 PM
Some motors use a capacitor to initially give a "kick" for them to start. It is possible that the capacitor is as old as the projector (from 1967) and has expired, hence its inability to start the motor. Look for the capacitor and see if has leaked, or even possibly burst. This will indicate the need for a new capacitor.
Posts: 280
From: Rajburana, Bangkok, Thailand
Registered: Aug 2017
posted August 19, 2019 08:08 PM
Maurice just pointed out an important spot . If the motor kinda "hums" when on - trying to spin but failed. It'll be more than likely leaked/failed capacitor as he pointed out.
Capacitor, in short, is used to give initial "spin" to the motor when first powered on. When aged up it will be less&less effective - to the point that it will not work at all.
But if the motor is totally silent when on. No humming/schreeching/whatever AT ALL. That could be something else too.
-------------------- Just a lone collector from a faraway land...
posted August 20, 2019 07:09 AM
The motor makes no noise at all, there is no vibration. In other words, dead. I believe it is hidden behind two screws which I am unable to undo. Where would the capacitor be?
Posts: 5895
From: Bristol. United Kingdom
Registered: Oct 2007
posted August 20, 2019 11:02 AM
Maria See the attachment. Click on "18-5L (Before 1970)" and then scroll down to the pictures The capacitor is the large aluminium cylinder top right with the nut on top of it. You can select the one showing its insides and then click on it for an enlargement. https://van-eck.net/itable.php?lang=en&size=0&cat=film&merk=20&type=18-5 L Super (before 1970)
Posts: 5895
From: Bristol. United Kingdom
Registered: Oct 2007
posted August 21, 2019 03:08 PM
I had a problem with a 16mm sound projector with the motor refusing to run. Its starting capacitor was replaced and it is now running perfectly. I've just looked at the old capacitor and it looks quite perfect, no leakage or anything. So one can't be judged by just looking at it. Mine looks about the same size as yours, an aluminium cylinder with a nut on top, 45mm wide and 80mm long (not including the nut). It's a 14 uF (micro farad). + or - 10%. 220 volt. If there's no life at all in the motor then it's probably that the capacitor is at fault.
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From: Bristol. United Kingdom
Registered: Oct 2007
posted August 23, 2019 08:35 AM
It doesn't need soldering. It has spade terminals. The old capacitor should have the same. The wiring to it should have fork terminals which just pull off for removal, and push on for connection. Here's what fork terminals look like. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/231675401977
Posts: 5895
From: Bristol. United Kingdom
Registered: Oct 2007
posted August 23, 2019 08:57 AM
Before you do anything physical, you must measure the size of the existing capacitor, as a replacement which is larger will obviously not fit in the space available. The wires to the fork terminals are not soldered, the bare ends of the wires are crimped. A crimping tool is used, however, a small pair of pliers will do the trick.
Posts: 280
From: Rajburana, Bangkok, Thailand
Registered: Aug 2017
posted August 25, 2019 08:12 PM
If doing electrical work is not your thing, your local electrical guy should be able to get it done. Not that hard for anyone who'd done some soldering before.
But you should be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that's the capacitor's fault, not something else. The worst thing is to spending some time/cost, only to find out that you'd gone in the wrong direction.
In short - an electrical repair person with modest experience should be able to help you figure it out, and fix it.
-------------------- Just a lone collector from a faraway land...