I'm in the process of switching model projectors from B&H 1500 series to Eiki. I understand that the Eiki has better sound and image quality.
Anyway I am used to using a manual thread projector, and I am trying to determine if the 3580 or 3585 would suit me better. It seems that both of these models have a wheel that allows the projectionist to insure that the film is engaged in the sprockets before switching the machine on.
From this design, it seems that either machine may be used for manual threading, but I'm truely not sure?
Also I'm not familiar with the film path of these Eiki models, and was curious if it was simple to keep the film path clean?
In browsing the various models for sale on the internet, it is difficult to see the film path up close.
Are these machines also capable of taking a zoom lens to make the picture larger in a smaller space?
Any help is appreciated.
Michael
-------------------- Isn't it great that we can all communicate about this great hobby that we love!
Posts: 701
From: Massachusetts
Registered: Jun 2003
posted August 01, 2005 07:28 AM
Hi Michael --
The 3580/3585 are actually B&H model #s for the Eiki projector. The actual Eiki Models (same machine) are SSL and SNT. The SSL being a Slot-load projector and the SNT being an Autoload. I believe that the SSL=3580 and SNT=3585, but don't quote me on that. The Autoload models can be loaded manually, but it's genereally a pain in the neck - I would stick to the slot loads. I'm not sure what you mean by a wheel that lets you tell if the sprockets are engaged.
posted August 02, 2005 12:04 AM
I can confirm that the SSL-0 is the equivalent of the B&H 3580. As for the wheel... my Eiki has what looks like a wheel at the very top right (below the supply reel arm). It's fixed and doesn't seem to turn, all I can see is that the rollers above the top sprocket flip up and down on a guide mounted to this wheel. I've yet to get hold of a manual for my machine so I'm a bit mystified as to why the wheel is there. One COULD engage all the sprockets and film gate by switching the projector to the 'MIC' position, which is the one right before the motor and lamp actually turn on and things start moving. Once in the 'MIC' position you could manually advance the film via the wheel in front of the lens until it catches in the sprockets and claw teeth, then turn the motor and lamp on. By the way, the film path on my SSL-0 is very easy to access and keep clean (though you do have to remove a few screws to take the bottom faceplace off if you want to give it a thorough cleaning).
-------------------- Call me Phoenix. *dusts off the ashes*