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Author Topic: Eiki SSL question
Adrian Winchester
Film God

Posts: 2941
From: Croydon, London, UK
Registered: Aug 2004


 - posted October 14, 2005 07:15 PM      Profile for Adrian Winchester     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I recently obtained an Eiki SSL-2 on eBay that was basiccally brand new, although it must have been in storage somewhere for maybe 15 years. I've found that I seem to be getting vertical steadiness problems with some (but by no means all) films, particularly trailers/shorts that were on small reels or cores. Treating these films with more lubricant might solve the problem, but I've found that the same films seem to run fine on my Eiki/B&H 3592. As the SSL-2 is new, nothing should be worn or out of position, so I wondered if anyone might have any suggestions regarding what's causing the jitter on some films?

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Adrian Winchester

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Seppo Tollikko
Junior
Posts: 7
From: Helsinki, Finland
Registered: Jan 2004


 - posted October 15, 2005 05:53 AM      Profile for Seppo Tollikko   Author's Homepage   Email Seppo Tollikko   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have no experience on this particular model, but here is my guess based on observations with some other projectors.
If there is some rubber-like elastic material, like the O-rings inside the reel arms, it has lost some of the elasticity during long storage. Especially those sections that have stayed curved around some wheels and the traction may not be uniform anymore. Heavy filmreels act like flywheel and can absorb the minor irregularities and project with no problem, but small reels can fail.
Just those usual two coins.

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No sig for me.

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Adrian Winchester
Film God

Posts: 2941
From: Croydon, London, UK
Registered: Aug 2004


 - posted October 15, 2005 08:20 AM      Profile for Adrian Winchester     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Seppo
Thanks for your suggestion, but I should say that I'm not using a small reel as a take up reel, I'm referring to shorts that were supplied on small reels.
I suppose the belts in both arms were stuck in the same position for a long time before I got the projector going - I'd be interested to know if a lack of tension in the take up arm could cause unsteadiness through the gate. In fact I have a new spare take up arm belt so I could see if this makes a difference.

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Adrian Winchester

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Jan Bister
Darth 8mm

Posts: 2629
From: Ohio, USA
Registered: Jan 2005


 - posted October 15, 2005 08:47 PM      Profile for Jan Bister   Email Jan Bister   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I doubt that there's any relation between gate problems and take-up irregularities. It occurs to me that the pressure plate exerts either too little or too much pressure on the gate during projection - meaning, either the film isn't being held steady enough between pulldowns, or the claw is working too hard pulling the film down as the pressure plate is "clamping down" on it. I know the projector is in like-new condition and nothing should be out of adjustment, but I would doublecheck the plate for proper pressure anyway. If that fails, then maybe all it is is that your films need lubrication.

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Call me Phoenix. *dusts off the ashes*

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John Whittle
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 791
From: Northridge, CA USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted October 20, 2005 08:23 PM      Profile for John Whittle   Email John Whittle       Edit/Delete Post 
Sounds like a bit of "gate stickshun" and running some film will help lube/wear in the gate. You might want to also check the claw and make sure it's entering and leaving without "nicking" the film (if it is you'll hear it). Also check claw protrusion. You should be able to move six pieces of film thru the gate (with manual advance) if the claw is going in deep enough. If not you need to adjust the cam tank.

But a little lube on the gate (bees wax prefered) will probably clear it up along with a little usage.

If not, check back and I'll continue with some other suggestions. These are well made machines and will run for a long time with a little care and lube. BTW these machines don't have any round o-ring style belts. The rewind belt is cogged, the take-up belt is flat and the main drive belt is v groved.

John

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Adrian Winchester
Film God

Posts: 2941
From: Croydon, London, UK
Registered: Aug 2004


 - posted October 21, 2005 03:50 AM      Profile for Adrian Winchester     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
John - many thanks for those tips. Could you please just advise where exactly in the gate you would apply the bees wax? And resumably this would be a liquid form of the wax, not the more solid type you can use on furniture?

[ October 21, 2005, 09:20 AM: Message edited by: Adrian Winchester ]

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Adrian Winchester

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John Whittle
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 791
From: Northridge, CA USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted October 22, 2005 10:09 PM      Profile for John Whittle   Email John Whittle       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
Could you please just advise where exactly in the gate you would apply the bees wax
I would open the gate and remove the pressure plate and rub it on the solid wax and then with the wax stick, rub it on the innter and outter edge guides in the gate. A little extra won't matter as it will quickly melt when the lamp is turned on. Run some old film (splice it into a loop) and see if it quiets down in a few minutes. You could also apply some liquid wax to the film running in the loop and it would lubricate the gate. It would be best to do this with the guides off and only have the film run thru the number one (top) sprocket and thru the gate and avoid getting the wax on the rest of the rollers in the film path.

Hate to say it, but some guys will actually use clear shoe polish on the edges of film to run in the gate.

Part of your problem could also be the "retained" bend from the small reel or core that the film was stored on.

John

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