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Author Topic: Switch On Eiki Stuck
Dan Lail
Film God

Posts: 2110
From: Loganville, Georgia, USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted October 03, 2006 11:39 PM      Profile for Dan Lail   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have acquired an Eiki SL-O. The function switch(Forward, reverse, off) is hard to turn. Where would I lubricate it?

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Jim Latendorf
Junior
Posts: 13
From: Sacramento, CA.
Registered: Dec 2005


 - posted October 04, 2006 04:01 PM      Profile for Jim Latendorf   Email Jim Latendorf   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The knob is not really a switch per say. It rotates a shaft that moves a bunch of linkage to set up the film path just before the motor turns. The knob shaft also has a cam on it that actuates microswitches for motor and lamp. Check for binding of the shaft itself or each of the mechanical elements the linkage moves. I'll bet old hard grease is the culpert. Open the back and observe what going on when the knob is rotated. Compicated business.

Jim L.

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Tony Milman
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1336
From: United Kingdom
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted October 04, 2006 05:14 PM      Profile for Tony Milman   Author's Homepage   Email Tony Milman   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Naaaahhhh

Just hit it with a hammer [Wink]

--------------------
Tony

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John Whittle
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 791
From: Northridge, CA USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted October 05, 2006 08:44 AM      Profile for John Whittle   Email John Whittle       Edit/Delete Post 
Dan,

Jim is right on concerning this. Look at the linkage that closes the gate and other sliding parts. Something is binding or bent that is causing your problem. The switch itself is just a group of microswitches.

Just watch what you're doing and don't spray WD-40 over everything!

John

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Dan Lail
Film God

Posts: 2110
From: Loganville, Georgia, USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted October 05, 2006 01:10 PM      Profile for Dan Lail   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Lets see....I take the hammer and WD-40..... [Eek!] [Big Grin]

Thanks, guys, looks like I'll have to give it the once or twice over very carefully. I figured it needed something like that. So far, I've had to add a teflon washer to forward gear which quitened it down to a purr. Also, I had to rebuild that little orange colored sleeve that fits around the shaft that makes the lens move forward and back(works very smooth now).

I do find my B&H 1500 series projectors much easier to maintain inside and out. I guess it could be because I have been using them for a few years almost everyday. [Smile]

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Jim Latendorf
Junior
Posts: 13
From: Sacramento, CA.
Registered: Dec 2005


 - posted October 06, 2006 05:10 PM      Profile for Jim Latendorf   Email Jim Latendorf   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
These slot load projectors are like record changers. Place a stack of records on the spindle, press "start" and stand back. Supposed to free up the tedium of threading the film path and hopefully reduce errors in threading which leads to print damage. Film load timing is critical on the slot load machines. They work well most of the time until all the linkage gums up with age or parts wear out of spec. Then, your in for fun times. That's might be why some old school types like the manual thread jobs. Less things to foul up.

"Thread it right, show it right."

These old machines are still fun to work on though. Please let us know how you come on the your project.

Jim L.
--
I never walk into a place I don't know how to walk out of.

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Adrian Winchester
Film God

Posts: 2941
From: Croydon, London, UK
Registered: Aug 2004


 - posted October 06, 2006 07:45 PM      Profile for Adrian Winchester     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I've had a fairly minor problem with the same switch on two Eiki Slot loads; an SL-1 and a SSL-2. In both cases, if you turn the switch to the rewind position, you sometimes (not every time) feel some sort of obstruction, although if you keep turning, the switch goes past whatever it is in the way and the rewind starts. It can't be down to wear in the case of the SSL-2, as the projector was virtually unused when I got it.

--------------------
Adrian Winchester

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John Whittle
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 791
From: Northridge, CA USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted October 07, 2006 08:53 AM      Profile for John Whittle   Email John Whittle       Edit/Delete Post 
You really need to look at the diagram in the service manual. There are a couple of cams that open and close the gate and set the loops. If one of those has slipped on it's shaft and is actuating at the wrong time you'll get the problem you describe.

Most likely a previous owner forced the switch too far in one direction or a loop size setter isn't working. Watch the upper loop setter above the gate and make sure that it flips to a higher position just before the gate closes and then drops to clear. It it doesn't, then it's timing is off.

There are also other lever/cams that close the sprockets and apply pressure to the flywheel and if those are off timing you get problems as well. These are all mechanical adjustments but related to the on-forward-show switch.

John

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Dan Lail
Film God

Posts: 2110
From: Loganville, Georgia, USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted October 08, 2006 12:33 AM      Profile for Dan Lail   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
John, I don't have a servics manual, but there is an Eiki SLII on Film-Tech's manual page. It looks just like the SL-O. Is it basically the same projector?

The previous owner was a school. I think I can repair it with all the advice everyone has offered. Thanks everyone. [Smile]

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Jim Latendorf
Junior
Posts: 13
From: Sacramento, CA.
Registered: Dec 2005


 - posted October 08, 2006 06:15 PM      Profile for Jim Latendorf   Email Jim Latendorf   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I believe that manual over on Film-tech will do the job. Just make sure it covers the serial number of your projector.

Regards,

Jim L.

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John Whittle
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 791
From: Northridge, CA USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted October 09, 2006 09:01 AM      Profile for John Whittle   Email John Whittle       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
but there is an Eiki SLII on Film-Tech's manual page. It looks just like the SL-O. Is it basically the same projector?

Basically they're the same, but the sprockets on the SSL are larger so all the gearing is different and the parts are not interchangeable (in most cases--there are some).

Since the projector was in a school, I'd guess someone turned the main knob too far in one direction of the other and some of the parts are out of time with the came (having been slid/torqued off their proper position). The top roller pop-up is usually the first sign and making sure the gate closes and all the sprockets and rollers set at the proper time in relation to the knob "set" postion is the second.

John

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David Kilderry
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 963
From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Registered: Feb 2006


 - posted October 11, 2006 07:13 PM      Profile for David Kilderry   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Dan,

Where did you get, or what did you use to replace the little orange focus sleeve on your Eiki? I have one that has also turned to goo and dust on an SL-1.

I had just been thinking about what to do when I saw your post.

David

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Dan Lail
Film God

Posts: 2110
From: Loganville, Georgia, USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted October 11, 2006 07:47 PM      Profile for Dan Lail   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi, David, I took a piece of 1/4" plastic tubing that is used on a refrigerator ice maker. I cut it the same length as the orange rubber piece. After sliding it over the metal shaft, I wraped electrical tape tightly around the tubing(two layers). Then before reinserting it into the lens holder I moistened it lightly so the friction tape would not peel off. So far it has worked great. I'm sure there are other variation that may be better like substituting shrink wrap in place of the friction tape. Than way there would be no seams. Shrink wrap is used to replace a section of insulation around an electriacl wire. You put the shrink wrap in place and heat it up with a soldering iron or a lighter(careful not to touch the flame to it) and it shrinks. [Smile]

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David Kilderry
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 963
From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Registered: Feb 2006


 - posted October 11, 2006 08:57 PM      Profile for David Kilderry   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks Dan, I had not thought of any of those options.......

David

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