8mm Forum: eiki slim line

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Posted by Louis Li (Member # 776) on May 22, 2007, 12:21 PM:

Im selling off my kodak pageant 256

and there are two projectors that im considering at a local shop
the eiki slim line and the elmo cl.

i know how good an elmo CL is but the eiki just looks so pretty and shiny.
anyone have opinions on the eiki?

[ May 22, 2007, 02:16 PM: Message edited by: Louis Li ]

Posted by Graham Sinden (Member # 431) on May 22, 2007, 03:26 PM:

Louis,

I have an Eiki slimline (brown case) and I think these are excellent. This is my main 16mm machine at the moment and its never let me down, the autothreading works flawlessey. Its only the basic model though optical only (no magnetic) and only one brightness level but I love it.

Dont know much about the elmo 16mm.

Have fun choosing.

Graham [Smile]

Just a note: I only ever run it at 24 fps but dont know how or if I can change the speed on it?

Posted by Michael De Angelis (Member # 91) on May 23, 2007, 05:15 PM:

Louis,
I agree with Graham,
the Eiki Slimline 3585 autothread
(not slotload) is a fine machine.

Graham:
The Eiki Slimline only runs at
24 fps. The true silent modification
was available by Eiki, but I was
told that these parts are not
available from the company any longer.
(If you are so interested, there may
be someone down your way that might
have more information on this.)

So the machine would perform at
either sound or silent speed and
does not have the facility to
switch from one to the other.

But about any available parts, is not to imply
these they might be sitting somewhere
on someones shelf unused.

On another note, I don't own a 16mm ELMO,
but I think that the weakness with this
machine was an issue with the take-up gear.
If I'm not mistaken, when Kodak offered the unit as
the CT 1000, they remedied this problem.

Posted by Lee Mannering (Member # 728) on May 24, 2007, 04:32 AM:

Hi folks. I picked up a slotload Eiki in as new conish and its superb, also ideal if you give shows to children as I do because they can get involved and have a go at projection. Very simple to use machine and I have not had any problems with it. I used to have NT1 and 2's but fell in love with the slot machine. Also have a slimline 9.5 sound proj of which only a couple were converted from 16mm by Buck.

Posted by Ian John (Member # 507) on May 26, 2007, 07:55 PM:

Just a reply to Graham Sinden's post. Graham- I have a number of Eiki models, and one of them is the "Brown cased" Slim-Line SNT-1. Just for your information, there is a "Lamp Brightness" change switch on this model, you will have to open the lamphouse cover by pulling it down towards you,and you will find the switch on the back wall of the lamphouse. The switch is marked "HIGH/LOW".

As far as changing from 24fps to silent speed... in short,you can't. Here's the specs on the machine, hope thats of help:

**********************

The SNT and ENT projectors are identical except for switching. The SNT-Series uses a Rotary Switch and the ENT-Series uses Electronic Push Button Switching. ENT-Series machines have the added features of a Film Guard Switch, Auto-Stop Switch at Film End and End of Self-Threading and a Remote Control Connector. A hand held remote control is optional.

The numbers following the SNT/ENT designation indicate the following:

SNT/ENT -0 = Standard Model
SNT/ENT -1 = Additional Speakers in Cover
SNT/ENT -2 = Optical & Magnetic Sound
SNT/ENT -3 = Magnetic Recording

Eiki Model SNT (Slim Self-Threader) Specifications Power Source: 105-125VAC, 50/60 Hz.
120/240VAC switchable model optional
Power consumption: 430W
Lamp: ELC 24V 250w.
Standard Lens: 50mm (2") f/1.2 6-element, coated, with micro-focusing, 160 lines per mm (centre) resolution.
Shutter: 3 blade (2 blade optional).
Exciter Lamp: 4V-0.75A, BRK.
Motor: Induction, with capacitor (plug in module).
Film Speed: 24 FPS, sound speed.
Loop Controls: Lower loop restored automatically
Control Switch: Single rotary lockout switch for forward, lamp on, reverse and rewind.
Lamp Brightness: 850 lumens typical (with optional 2-blade shutter).
Lamp Switch: High/low.
Rewind: High-speed reel-to-reel. No reel or arm change required.
Reel Capacity: 2000 ft. reel standard.
Speaker Cord: 15m (50 ft.)
Film Threading: Self-threading.
Still Picture: Manual, with heat filter.
Public Address: Built-in microphone jack
Power Cord: 3m (9ft.).
Shipping Weight: 18Kg (40 lbs).
External Audio
Jack: 8 ohm 1/4" phone, with 600 ohm unbalanced line, when using 1/4" stereo phone plug.
Amplifier: Solid state (plug in module). 25w RMS.
Tone Control: Individual treble and bass.
Wow & Flutter: 0.2% WRMS.

Ian. South Wales

Posted by Adrian Winchester (Member # 248) on May 27, 2007, 04:47 AM:

Louis - which model of Eiki have you seen?

I use 2 Eikis, a SSL-2 and a ENT/3585 (in B&H livery). I'd say theyt are basically good machines and I wouldn't opt for another make as I have the lenses I need, but all the Eikis I've owned have given me minor to major problems at times, even when new or hardly used. E.g. the pressure plate springs on my SSL-2 were too weak, causing some unsteadiness, so I had to stretch them. New replacements were no better. Slot loading may work well 95% of the time, but take care before starting a prized film part of the way through, because if the film fails to lace up properly, they can cause serious damage! In my experience, the rotary switches frequently give a sense of not being perfectly lined up mechanically, particularly when rewinding (anyone else find this?), so I much prefer the 'touch' switches on the ENT.

Actually, you can run Eikis the silent speed but it's dependent on you having the right pulley for this. But as this involves removing the back and moving the relevant belt, it's a real pain, so I envy people with B&Hs, etc, who only have to move a switch, as with an 8mm projector. Also, UK Eikis/Elfs tend to have 2 bladed shutters, although I believe 3 bladed is common in the USA.

Posted by Graham Sinden (Member # 431) on May 27, 2007, 08:09 AM:

Ian, thanks for your reply but on my particular model there is no switch behind the lamphouse cover.

I know what your talking about because Ive seen one like that in the past.

Im wondering if these lamp switches were mods carried out by some people.

I will check again but im pretty sure there is no switch as ive looked behind it many times.

Posted by Louis Li (Member # 776) on May 27, 2007, 12:20 PM:

hello adrian.
if i remember. it should be this one.
thank you all for the infomation by the way

Posted by Adrian Winchester (Member # 248) on May 27, 2007, 05:18 PM:

Graham,
I've just checked the ESL/SSL instruction manual, that confirms that every model has the lamp switch, except the SSL-0L. This is a lighter model with a less powerful amplifier (15w instead of 25w) and a EYK/EWG 300w 120v lamp. Presumably that's the model you have.
Louis,
The one pictured could be any SSL apart from the SSL-2, as it doesn't have the magnetic sound switch. The model will be indicated on a plate on the back, and probably on the top of the handle. Looks like it has been used quite a bit, but it could still be a good buy at the right price.

Posted by Michael De Angelis (Member # 91) on May 27, 2007, 10:16 PM:

Just wanted to share.
Although I do not
have a slot load Eiki,
a friend told me that
care must be taken with the
slot loads and to ensure
that the film does not
scratch, particularly when
it is forming the upper loop.

Posted by Adrian Winchester (Member # 248) on May 28, 2007, 05:45 AM:

As someone that has owned 3, I can endorse the above. If the threading has not been successful, you might have damaged or broken film due to the film being clamped by the edges of the gate, or even the top sprockets damaging the picture area instead of engaging with the sprocket holes. This sort of thing should not happen often, though, and you can mimimise it by manually checking that the film is moving freely from one reel to the other, before starting the projector.

Posted by John Whittle (Member # 22) on May 28, 2007, 11:27 AM:

A common problem with the Eiki Slot loads is forming of the upper loop. Watch the upper roller as you slowly close the rotary switch, It will move up slowly, then jump up just as the gate closes and drop down to it's run position.

If someone has forced the projector at some point, the cam follower inside the machine may not be properly following the spring to make these actions happen. It's a relatively easy fix and if you watch the projector thru the setting cycle, you won't have a problem.

Also, while it's possible to rewind/review thru the gate on both the Eiki and Elmo, I recommend against it.

The projector without the lamp high/low setting does indeed use a line voltage lamp, but it also uses windings in the motor to detrive the voltages for the amp and exciter lamp circuit. Something Eiki did back with eh MS series and the first ST series projectors. If possible, look for a projector that uses the 24 volt lamp instead. You'll be much happier since the amp voltage will fluctuate with motor load on the line voltage model.

John

Posted by Louis Li (Member # 776) on September 15, 2007, 08:39 AM:

a number of eiki's seem to be popping up in shops recently.
i came across a sl-2 with a kowa prominar lens 1.2. really nice bright image when i tested it.
Is this the usual eiki stock projector lens?

also. what about the xenon eiki models.. im planning to go check out one at another shop. not sure which model it is yet.

[ September 15, 2007, 10:57 AM: Message edited by: Louis Li ]

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