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Author Topic: b & h 2575
Stephen Svitek
Junior
Posts: 6
From: Canonsburg Pa. USA
Registered: Jan 2008


 - posted February 06, 2008 01:51 PM      Profile for Stephen Svitek   Email Stephen Svitek   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi all: Just a quick question. I have a B&H 16mm projector-model # 2575A. On Brad's website, he has a manual listed for 2575C. What is the difference between these two models and would the manual pertain to both? I've already contacted Brad and was referred here. Thanks in advance. Steve

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David Park
Master Film Handler

Posts: 346
From: UK
Registered: Nov 2003


 - posted February 09, 2008 05:05 PM      Profile for David Park   Email David Park   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I do not know the answer but would have thought it something minor.
Ken Layton is the man to ask, does he read this forum?

Bell & Howell 1575C/2575C/2580C Slot Load

Bell & Howell
1575C et.seq.
EMM or EKS
BAK
Automatic
400 to 2000 feet
24 frames/second
2.0", F1.4 Filmouara Zoom
20 watt output
Built in 4" X 6"
30 lbs
W 14 1/2"; H 16"; D 10 1/2"

That's all I have, does it sound similar to yours?

--------------------
Regards,
David

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Stephen Svitek
Junior
Posts: 6
From: Canonsburg Pa. USA
Registered: Jan 2008


 - posted February 11, 2008 04:57 AM      Profile for Stephen Svitek   Email Stephen Svitek   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks for the info Dave. I did contact Mr. Layton and he could not relate any major differences. Maybe just a later model or cosmetic changes.

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Kevin Faulkner
Film God

Posts: 4071
From: Essex UK
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted February 23, 2008 04:18 PM      Profile for Kevin Faulkner         Edit/Delete Post 
I think the A and C after the model numbers relates to the voltage range the machine will run on.

Kev.

--------------------
GS1200 Xenon with Elmo 1.0...great combo along with a 16-CL Xenon for that super bright white light.

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Chip Gelmini
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1733
From: Brooksville, FL
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted February 25, 2008 11:56 AM      Profile for Chip Gelmini     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have the 2580 models. There are two versions with the same model number. Two things I have noticed between the versions:

OLDER VERSION: External speaker plug is black color and is side mounted behind the tone/volume knobs. Also, when the main switch for operation is used, there is a "click" noise through the speaker.

NEWER VERSION: External speaker plug is on the back of the gear box, to the left of the take up reel standing behind the machine. There is no "click" noise in the operation switch. The machine in general seems alittle quieter when running.

In this post, I am referring to the model 2580 ONLY. I have two pairs for changeovers, two old and two new versions, for a total of 4 machines.

I do like the slot load design of the classic school room projector. Why couldn't they have made a super 8 machine like this. Can you imagine a super 8 sound slotload ST1200HD?

Chip

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Michael O'Regan
Film God

Posts: 3085
From: Essex, UK
Registered: Oct 2007


 - posted February 25, 2008 02:23 PM      Profile for Michael O'Regan   Email Michael O'Regan   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Chip,
Just out of interest and slightly off-topic here - do you operate that changeover manually or do you have a changeover unit connected to both projectors?

-Mike

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Chip Gelmini
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1733
From: Brooksville, FL
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted February 25, 2008 04:45 PM      Profile for Chip Gelmini     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I place standard cues on the print, and I splice long dark fiesta leader (black) on the tail end of the reels. The changeover is actually a well hidden double exposure.....long enough to reach over and shut down the ending machine lamp off. The sound changeover is done via remote control through a receiver or other audio device i.e. projector 1 as dvd and proj 2 as cd. When threading the reels, remember that number 8 on a standard leader is in the top loop (= 6 seconds) and/or clock leader # 6 in the top loop likewise.

Absolutley NO mechanical devices otherwise and with a little pratice the results can be as good as in the theaters.

Thanks for asking. Let me know how it works for you. And this method can be done with both formats, 16 as well as super 8. Use a print that has old fashioned original lab cues to learn the placement and distance. Use your fingers and measure the total (rewind bench) crank turns between the cues. Then learn how to put your own in the prints that don't have any. I normally take one frame for one cue and just make a small center scratch. That is, ONE CUE ONE FRAME for both sets (start motor followed by actual changeover). As you will find out, those little black dots are actually 4 frames per set. So I really do mean one cue one frame!

Chip

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