8mm Forum: Rank Aldis, Motor belt changing

»	8mm Forum » 16mm Forum » Rank Aldis, Motor belt changing

UBBFriend: Email this page to someone!

Author

Topic: Rank Aldis, Motor belt changing

Tony King
Junior
Posts: 3
From: Melbourne Victoria Austrlia
Registered: Nov 2010

posted November 07, 2010 04:09 PM

I have a Rank Aldis Model 0152 on which I have just fixed all the electronics and assorted faults but it needs a new motor belt fitted. I have a belt, but is there a trick to changing it, or do I really have to dismantle most of the projector drive mechanism just to fit it? The projector is the auto threader optical sound only model. I haven't been able to find a service manual for this projector.

| IP: Logged

Josef Grassmann
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 190
From: Hennef-Sieg, Germany
Registered: Apr 2005

posted November 23, 2010 07:44 AM

Does it have red STOP lever at back side for still projection?
Here is it more difficult.
On both versions you have to remove fan wheel(1 screw) and 4 screws which mount motor to chassis so that you can swing tip of motor axle more inside projector.

In any case you have to replace white grease in grease container.

| IP: Logged

Tony King
Junior
Posts: 3
From: Melbourne Victoria Austrlia
Registered: Nov 2010

posted November 23, 2010 03:38 PM

Hi Josef thanks for the reply
Yes it does have a dual purpose mechanism with a red lever that drops a big filter in front of the lamp if the film jams or breaks as well as for stills.

The belt seems to have to be maneuvered somehow past that mechanism to get it over the driven pulley

The projector is dual speed as well and has a spring loaded idler wheel (belt tensioner).

| IP: Logged

Josef Grassmann
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 190
From: Hennef-Sieg, Germany
Registered: Apr 2005

posted December 11, 2010 03:35 PM

+remove parts as described earlier,
than
+disconnect leads to motor cap (14µF)
+remove black screw and white cable holder underneath grease tank
+I recommend to disconnect cables from motor (underneath transformer) and mark leads and connector (!!) to ensure to make right connection during reassembly (as there are many connectors! May lead to great confusion in later steps)
+ remove transformer, or swing it upwards and fix it in position (screw top right loosen, only). On some models transformer is mounted into a metal frame. Here you loosen screw on left side only. On right side there are 2 hinges, so that you can swing out transformer.
+ remove long black screw (not short ones) from stop-mechanism (stop-mechanism has white plastic mould at bottom end. Right side moves between two adjusted end stops)
+now you can mount flat rubber belt,

| IP: Logged

Tony King
Junior
Posts: 3
From: Melbourne Victoria Austrlia
Registered: Nov 2010

posted December 29, 2010 01:01 AM

Hi Josef,
Thanks for your help, it all worked out fine once I discovered the gap in the main shaft. Your advice on the technique was very helpful.

The projector is up and running again and seems to be in perfect operating order. I replaced all the electrolytic capacitors in the audio lamp circuit and that took care of the last residual trace of hum at the same time.
Thanks once again.
regards Tony King

| IP: Logged

All times are Central

Printer-friendly view of this topic

UBB.classic^TM 6.3.1.2