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Topic: how to make a 8mm cartoon
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Osi Osgood
Film God
Posts: 10204
From: Mountian Home, ID.
Registered: Jul 2005
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posted April 01, 2011 10:50 AM
Very good question Austin ...
You need to make sure of two things first off, and they are most important ...
1. What is the focal point of your camera?
That is, how close to the paper or cel can your camera come? Some of the more cheap cameras do not allow you to get too close to your source.
2. Does your cameras have a frame by frame function?
That is, does your camer allow for you to take one frame at a time?
What I would suggest (as I have personally had trial and error and success with this in the past) ...
1. Make your animation drawings (if on paper) on sheets the size of your average copy or typewriter paper. I once did a film on 3X5 cards, and it was a little too small, and all the animation was quite fuzzy/blurry. That was so frustrating.
2. When you prepare your animation, be sure to use a dark ink line, and perhaps even slightly thicker than you might think is normal.
This is because, even though modern super 8 film is pretty darned sharp, (well it has always been fairly sharp) it is not, however, 16MM or 35MM. So, in order to make sure that the animation shows up on screen, a thicker ink line is a good idea.
3. Use proper lighting. Many super 8 cameras will have some form of light meter to them and make sure that those pages or cels have proper lighting.
Being that you are wanting to do animation, (whether stop motion or classical drawn animation), you probably already know the number of frames per second (which usually comes to between 12 to 24 fps, as in Disney animation, or 12 to as low as 4 fps for TV animation).
-------------------- "All these moments will be lost in time, just like ... tears, in the rain. "
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Claus Harding
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1149
From: Washington DC
Registered: Oct 2006
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posted April 01, 2011 04:58 PM
In addition to "patience, patience, patience" you need:
AN EASY-TO-REFERENCE NOTEPAD WITH EACH FRAME MARKED (HASH MARKS ARE GOOD) FOR EVERY EXPOSURE YOU TAKE. You need to know how many seconds (or fractions of seconds of film) you've shot.
A STURDY TRIPOD AND A STURDY TABLE. Once you start a scene, you finish it, and any motion of camera or table in-between means you start over.
RELIABLE LIGHTS. Lamps that cast a steady, consistent glow, with good bulbs. If a bulb blows mid-scene, exactly like with the bumped-shot scenario: you start the scene over.
NO DISTRACTIONS. No cellphones, no e-mails, no pets, no music, no loved ones around. The animator is a lonely soul :-)
Good luck with it; it is a demanding art, but the result can be one of a kind.
Claus.
-------------------- "Why are there shots of deserts in a scene that's supposed to take place in Belgium during the winter?" (Review of 'Battle of the Bulge'.)
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