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Author Topic: Film Guard and tape splices
Michael De Angelis
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1261
From: USA
Registered: Jul 2003


 - posted October 18, 2004 10:25 PM      Profile for Michael De Angelis   Email Michael De Angelis   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hello to all,

Will Filmguard soften and loosen film splices?

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Isn't it great that we can all communicate about this great
hobby that we love!

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Steven Sigel
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 701
From: Massachusetts
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted October 19, 2004 10:11 AM      Profile for Steven Sigel   Email Steven Sigel   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I've never had a problem with filmguard and splices. Mainly, I think, because you use only a very small amount of filmguard on the print...

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Chip Gelmini
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1733
From: Brooksville, FL
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted October 19, 2004 10:58 AM      Profile for Chip Gelmini     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have had problems with loose splices, but I don't think Filmguard would do it.

I happen to own, and love, the Ciro Guillotine M-3 Special super 8 splicer. This one looks and works just like the 35mm and 16mm versions with the very large black handle. The roll of tape is infront of you, and you pull the tape away from you across the matrix. This is NOT the plastic or metal smaller version that they made. This is definately a splicer for the professional film maker/editor using the given format.

With 2 frame 8mm tape, it is very important that you just press down to apply to the film, not rub it for added pressure. Rubbing causes the tightness to weaken in the tape after it has been pulled across the matrix, but before it is cut and trimmed. When loosened, you get a sloppy splice. When tight, the cutting is a perfect "snip" sound and it is nice and clean.

Also, I find that instead of butting the two frames together and have it be smooth (rubbing your finger across the two pieces left to right and feeling nothing) it is actually better to have the two frames make contact and give a very slight bulge (rub your finger across and feel a slight bump). The Ciro M-3 special for super 8 allows for this as it has an adjustment knob to control the distance between the two frames.

I am in the process of hand inspecting my prints and I am finding many splices are still intact just as they were made.

As to your question, I also make up the movies first, then as they are on big reels, give the coating of filmguard through the Kelmar cleaner.

Hope this helps you, even though it might sound complicated.

[ October 19, 2004, 05:32 PM: Message edited by: Chip Gelmini ]

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Chip Gelmini
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1733
From: Brooksville, FL
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted October 21, 2004 05:13 AM      Profile for Chip Gelmini     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
In my above post, I mention butting the films together with a bulge. This is very important to making a good splice. It is even more important when splicing optical sound films. Remember that crack between the film joined would make a big BOOM through your speakers when passed over the exciter bulb. NOT GOOD.

CG

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Chris Quinn
Master Film Handler

Posts: 372
From: England, Bedfordshire.
Registered: Nov 2003


 - posted October 24, 2004 12:49 PM      Profile for Chris Quinn   Email Chris Quinn   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Chip,
What is a Kelmar cleaner? and are there simular machines that can aid in cleaning your films.

Chris.

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The other half thinks i'm up to something. Shes right of course.

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