Posts: 1733
From: Brooksville, FL
Registered: Jun 2003
posted October 21, 2004 05:20 AM
For those of you who have this splicer. There is no adjustment knob to control the space between the two butted frames. Here are a few suggestions that can make a better splice when using ONLY this splicer.
(To begin, let's assume you're at your rewind bench using hand cranks.)
On the left side reel, come off the reel drop the film down align to the pins and trim where needed. Lift off the pins and bring to the left side center of the matrix and realign to the pins.
On the right side reel come off the reel and turn the end of the film UPSIDE DOWN align to the pins and cut the film where needed.
Turn the film right side up and return to the right side of the matrix align to the pins and position for the splice.
In these steps above, the two pieces of film are not trimmed from exactly the same position. Therefore, they are slightly different and this permits the slight bulge for the proper splicing technique.
Personally I strongly recommend the Ciro M-3 Special as it is easier to work with and lighter in pyhiscal weight and overall size. However, the Neutaper splicer from Neumade would be the 2nd choice as a work horse pro splicer available for the novice collector.
Feel free to ask any other questions about this and I hope some of you would find this information useful.
Posts: 1733
From: Brooksville, FL
Registered: Jun 2003
posted October 22, 2004 10:38 AM
Maybe a hot splicer would work, but I don't have one. Standard cement splices work on acetate, but not mylar. I don't mind cement splices, but use tape because it works!