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Author
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Topic: Sankyo Stereo 800 help required
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Matt Pull
Junior
Posts: 2
From: Kingston upon Thames
Registered: Jul 2012
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posted July 15, 2012 05:54 PM
Hi all,
Due to unfortunate circumstances, I have recently gained possession of my father's Sankyo Stereo 800 projector (plus Prinz Oxford 450 movie editor), plus a collection of reels of family that I haven't seen since I was 8 years old (25 years ago), dearly missed footage of early family holidays that eventually I want transferred to digital for preservation purposes.
I got home with all the kit this evening (excited like the 8 year old who used to be 'allowed' to load the reels back in the 80's, getting all giddy about that sound of the reels turning and then....only to feel a little sunk by the lack of light coming out of the lamp....
I don't know what to look for, but I did start by taking the side panel off and checking the bulb was intact. It looks like the correct bulb and is a 15v 150W that looks like my father has recently fitted and the lens and filament are all solid.
Aside from this being a dodgy bulb, and missing some buttons, I think I need someone to take an experienced look at it (noticed it is also missing the spring which hooks onto the receiving reel to fix it into place, plus missing one volume knob and the audio channel knob).
I'm willing to pay someone with experience and a desire/obsession about these machines to take a good look at this / plus spend some money if need be to get conversion of media to accessible format if that follows through I'll take recommendations.
I'm not adverse to electronics (computer engineer of 18+ yrs), aside from being averse to destroying my kit with a soldering iron, so happy to take guidance at an early stage to diagnose, just don't want to break what seems to be an almost working but precious machine.
I love film of all kinds, and this is so special to me, it has cried out and arrived back in my life to get fixed and become part of my life again!
I appreciate any advice and look forward to hearing from your wealth of expertise.
Kind regards
Matthew
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Mark L Barton
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 621
From: Bristol, South Glos, England
Registered: Mar 2009
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posted July 16, 2012 04:24 AM
I would definately check the lamp connector, it should look clean and solid (metal base plate attached to a ceramic block, all snug etc) You could try sanding the 'pins' of the lamp you have to remove anyu oxidisation. When ever I acquire a projector and the lamp fails to work, I pop the lamp out and sand the pins, and usually the lamp 'fires' back up.
And as Lee stated if you do need a new lamp then go for the best (I once used cheap some cheap lams that were possibly half brightness even tho they had the correct model number) If you are good with electronics you could use a tester into the lamp base (the two hoiles where the bulb fits) and test to see if you are getting voltage, if no voltage then you will have to back track into the power feed to the mal and so forth. In all hoinest a good electronics engineer could fault find, but I really think a good clean of the bulb pns (or new bulb) will help. Cheers and good luck, the Sankyo 800 is a very nice machine.
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Mark L Barton
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 621
From: Bristol, South Glos, England
Registered: Mar 2009
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posted July 17, 2012 04:02 AM
Hi, I have copied several cine films via the old method of video camera pointed at the screen. Even had the results of one film I 'converted' this way shown on the BBC!
My practice is: firstly run the film and find out what contrasts you have between lit and dark scenes (ie indoors and outside, a sunny day for example) Then you need to make sure your video camera has manual exposure and find an average exposure, this will avoid an auto exposure on your camera causing a 'fare' between dark and lit scenes. Plus make sure your focus is set to manual, again auto ocus can drift between dark/light scenes.
Line your camera as near to the projector so that both lens are almost parallel (they will never quite match but you are trying to avoid a keystone effect on the recorded picture)
If I do not want the sound of the projector I tend to insert a mini plug into the 3.5mm mic in jack (thus its not connected to an external mic, switch the camera mic setting to ext...if you do not have an ext mic option then try to blimp the onboard mic with dense material) In a completely dark room project a reasonable size image (not too small as it makes the image too hot, too big = too dark...assume about 24" max) Start recording, allow 5 seconds run up time then start the projector. I tend to do two recordings, the first one with a wider view of the projected image, ie so that you can see the black around the image, then on the second run slightly zoomed in so that the projected image fills the view finder (most video camera view finders see about 5% less than the lens etc)
Two things to look out for is, a hot spot in the projected image that the camera might see (make the projected picture bigger and check your exposure) And a colour balance shift towards blue, check your camera white balance (if you have ATW on your camera slecetr that, as its auto tracking white balance and may adjust automatically, but I find some cameras can not keep up with fast tpic temperature changes) If you have access to editing software, such as Final Cut Pro 7, then any white balance issues can be easily corrected there.
Hope this may help, cheers
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