posted July 13, 2008 03:38 AM
I was using my Eiki NT2 the other day and noticed a small problem. It seems film with either tape splices or sprocket repair. It does not seem to like this and slips until the automatic film loop restore comes in to play.
My question to put to you is how can i correct this or is this just a fault on how the projector is designed and works because of where the sprockets are situated?
posted July 13, 2008 06:33 AM
Hi Robert, I have a RM-1 which is similar to your machine. I have no problems at all with tape splices. Any Eikis I've come across are fine with tape splices. Sprocket repair is another matter - maybe the repairs have split again or are not done well. I can think of no other reason why the loop should get thrown like you describe.
Posts: 1236
From: Dunstable ,Bedfordshire.
Registered: Jan 2005
posted July 13, 2008 01:40 PM
I have an RM1 also and my machine did slip once on a splice,it turned out to be a splice that someone had done and the sprocket holes had not been punched out...Mark.
posted July 13, 2008 05:16 PM
Robert, I think you need to give a litle more info with regards to what you mean by "Slips"
If it's what I think you mean then I would suggest the the claw protrusion is insufficient so when a tape splice or sprocket repair goes through it lifts the film further from the claw and then it slips. This can all be adjusted with the adjustments for the cam assay.
Give us some more info.
Kev.
-------------------- GS1200 Xenon with Elmo 1.0...great combo along with a 16-CL Xenon for that super bright white light.
Posts: 791
From: Northridge, CA USA
Registered: Jun 2003
posted July 15, 2008 10:36 PM
Kev is right, a common problem is claw protrustion being too shallow. In most cases from a technician removing and re-installing the cam tank (to change a belt) and not knowing how to adjust the claw.
A properly adjusted claw will pass through and pull six pieces of film (that's in hand advance, not power advance). So it will easily clear a cement or tape splice.
If it's not, then the problem is either a poor splice and the claw can't enter the sprocket holes, or the cam tank is mis-adjusted. If you can verify your machine is in spec, then it's time to fire your editor.
Just to give you some more info on this, the film slips upwards until the loop reformer comes into play, but if it still is slipping on say more then one splice in say just a few feet of film then what happens next is the worst possible scenario, it pulls the sprockets holes on the film leaving you with more damage then before.
With most films I don’t really have a problem apart from a film that has had a few splices one after the other or some sprocket damage.
As this projector is virtually as new, could this be down to the claw inside just might need to be lubricated a bit or could it well be the claw protrusion that is insufficient?
If so how easy will this be to correct if I do decide to do this myself, knowing that these machines are the easiest by far to actually work on?
Posts: 156
From: Old Coulsdon. Surrey. UK
Registered: Oct 2006
posted July 16, 2008 07:12 AM
Robert. Go to this web address:- www.cinebelts.co.uk/elfntqrt.htm where there is a dowloadable PDF copy of the Technical Manual. Hope this helps. Hugh.
posted July 16, 2008 10:34 AM
Robert, Yes that could still be down to insufficient claw protrusion.
As John says above the claw should protrude by 6 film thicknesses. Does it? Manually advance the transport so the claw is right out and then see how many thicknesses of film you can lay over the claw before it no longer protrudes. You can use some film leader to try this.
I agree with John in that I bet someone has removed the cam assay to replace the belt and had no idea about its repositioning when reinstalling.
Kev.
-------------------- GS1200 Xenon with Elmo 1.0...great combo along with a 16-CL Xenon for that super bright white light.
I would like to say a big thank you to all who gave me some valuable instructions and information on how to correct this very small problem. I would like to say that Kevin and John were totally right.
I was armed with my copy of the technical Manuel. I really thought I was getting ready for a big job. I first checked the protrusion of the claw and found that it was only enough for one layer of film. So it was now a question of using the Manuel and opening the back of the projector. But after just unscrewing one of the three screws that holds the transformer to the main frame of the projector. And after unplugging the transformer inside.
I found it extremely easy to get to the claw protrusion. Just using a Philips screwdriver I first of all unscrewed the small fixing screw at the top and then loosened the centre screw until the claw came out as far as it could go. Then I just tightened the top fixing screw.
It solved my slipping problem straight away and the film runs very smoothly even thou it still loops when it has a splicey section, which I gather is the norm. But never looses its loop like it did before.
Well now I can use it for my very first outdoor screening for the summer at the weekend weather permitting!
The main reason is that the Fumeo is not a very portable machine and practical to use unless it is in a stationery position as the pedestal part of the projector is a bugger to move as it weighs a ton.
It would be easier to use my portable 35mm projector then to use that Fumeo I’m afraid.
So you could say sometimes portable machines out weigh the more professional stationery larger projectors in terms of portability!