8mm Forum: Elf RT1 Take Up Problem

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Topic: Elf RT1 Take Up Problem

frank arnstein
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 534
From: Gold Coast. Australia
Registered: Jan 2005

posted July 11, 2009 03:31 AM

Hi Posters on the thread...
With regards to this annoying problem of weak take up function.
I have found that certain small fibre washers that are usually on the clutch spindle are quite important. If you leave them out then it effects the amount of friction available to the cork linings. The spindle has to be quite loose to the touch when wobbled. This ensures that when the weight of a reel is hanging on the spindle, it will allow the the cork to press hard against the drum. If the drum cant hang down enough it will start to slip even with a reel hanging off it. Refitting the fibre washers to adjust the right spacing, will restore the loose hanging nature of the spindle & should drive much better.
Good luck with it
dogtor puffefish

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At Projector Heaven the Focus is always on Detail.

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[o:/o]<|=- dogtor@projectorheaven.com.au
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John Whittle
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 791
From: Northridge, CA USA
Registered: Jun 2003

posted July 11, 2009 04:37 PM

Good point, you need to check all of the parts to make sure they're present and also for wear. The drum requires wobble so that as the weight of film increases on the reel it applies more pressure to the drum.

So look at the drum, there is usually a fibre washer then it slips onto the drum and then there is a hardened washer and a 3mm screw. Also the bushing that the pulley roates on has a hole that should allow for vertical wobble of the drum.

Finally the cork lining wears and may need to be resurfaced (we used to order spare parts!) and then treated with phonolube so allow slippage otherwise too much drag is fed back to the motor trying to turn the reel and it will overheat.

Finally, the design works best when you use a 1600 foot Goldberg reel. It has the right weight to make the system work. The only caution is on start-up you have to watch and make sure that the reel is held back a bit so that it doesn't turn too fast and snap your leader.

John

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Simon McConway
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1085
From: Doncaster, UK
Registered: Jun 2004

posted July 14, 2009 03:14 PM

At last! With many thanks to Kevin for kindly sending me new cork sheets, the problem appears sorted! I stripped out the old cork, whick seemed to have shrunk and worn on reflection. Then, I cut and super-glued in a new piece of cork; this seemed much rougher and springy than the old cork. Then, success! A whole 1600' was taken-up by the projector perfectly! I haven't put any grease on yet...I'm scared I'll undo the good effect I now have! How much should be applied? Normally, I use spray-grease.

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Kevin Faulkner
Film God

Posts: 4071
From: Essex UK
Registered: Jun 2003

posted July 14, 2009 06:38 PM

I just use a real thin application of silicon grease. I just put a very thin coating on the tip of my finger and then rub it onto the surface of the cork. This is where a lot of people go over the top and apply loads of the stuff and then wonder why the take-up stops working!
The main reason for the grease (I think) is to stop too much drag on the motor etc. I think it also helps stop the cork from polishing up too quickly.

I'm glad it sorted your problems Simon and am glad to have been able to help.

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GS1200 Xenon with Elmo 1.0...great combo along with a 16-CL Xenon for that super bright white light.

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