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Author Topic: Eumig S807D Lamp not working
Ingo Helbig
Junior
Posts: 3
From: Perth, Australia
Registered: Sep 2016


 - posted September 18, 2016 02:15 AM      Profile for Ingo Helbig   Email Ingo Helbig   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Can anyone tell me why the lamp on my Eumig S 807 D projector has stopped working? Until recently the projector worked perfectly. The other day I was projecting a film in forward and then went into reverse with the lamp on. After reversing in this way for a time, I turned the lamp off and continued playing in reverse. When I next switched to forward motion, the lamp no longer worked. I have tried replacing the lamp and the new one also doesn’t work. Currently the lamp glows at a very low level in all positions of the control knob (even stop). I am unsure if this was happening before the lamp stopped working at full intensity.
I’d really appreciate someone’s help with this. Have I knocked a switch or some part of the projector that I’m unaware of? Is there a hidden fuse somewhere?

Thanks Ingo Helbig

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Maurice Leakey
Film God

Posts: 5895
From: Bristol. United Kingdom
Registered: Oct 2007


 - posted September 18, 2016 04:18 AM      Profile for Maurice Leakey   Email Maurice Leakey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
It is probable that the main control knob physically operates certain micro switches. Unfortunately, over time the spring in such switches fail, thus not switching on/off.

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Maurice

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Brian Fretwell
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1785
From: London, UK
Registered: Jun 2014


 - posted September 18, 2016 05:29 AM      Profile for Brian Fretwell   Email Brian Fretwell   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
All the sound Eumigs with the 12v 100w halogen reflectors I own of have lamp pre-heat as soon as switched on so it does look like what Maurice said. Though with this make I would think it would be an open contact switch not a micro switch. The S903 I have just taken the back off is like that so it should be easy to check & clean the contact area and check no wire connectors have come adrift as it is operated by a cam at the back of the main rotary control.

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Paul Mason
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 540
From: Aldershot, Hampshire, UK
Registered: Nov 2013


 - posted September 18, 2016 06:27 AM      Profile for Paul Mason     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The lamp plug is the obvious suspect as it carries a heavy current. Over time the lamp contacts heat up slightly, corrode and the increase in resistance causes more heating until the contact is too poor to carry the current. They are difficult to clean and the best answer is to replace the plug with a new one as these are still available.

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Paul.

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Paul Mason
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 540
From: Aldershot, Hampshire, UK
Registered: Nov 2013


 - posted September 18, 2016 06:28 AM      Profile for Paul Mason     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 


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Paul.

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Andrew Woodcock
Film God

Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012


 - posted September 18, 2016 06:40 AM      Profile for Andrew Woodcock         Edit/Delete Post 
If it were the lamp connector at fault here Paul, almost certainly the lamp would not pre heat as it is doing.

Almost certainly it will be poor contact from a cam lobe to an additional lamp switch which carries the full lamp voltage supply to the lamp holder, micro switch or otherwise.

The advice already given by Maurice and Brian appears the most feasible from the description of the actual fault.

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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"

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Paul Mason
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 540
From: Aldershot, Hampshire, UK
Registered: Nov 2013


 - posted September 18, 2016 10:11 AM      Profile for Paul Mason     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I take your point Andrew and I agree that Brian and Maurice's remedies should be tried first.

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Paul.

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Steve Klare
Film Guy

Posts: 7016
From: Long Island, NY, USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted September 18, 2016 11:47 AM      Profile for Steve Klare   Email Steve Klare   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Agreed:

It sounds like a switch has had its day and gone wherever dead switches go! A lot of projectors have an on/off lamp switch, I'm thinking this one has more like a low/high switch instead.

I'm going to have to break my Eumig 800 series some day: I've had it 14 years now and other than the cruddy grounding I've had so little trouble with it I'm not really sure what goes on inside there! [Wink]

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All I ask is a wide screen and a projector to light her by...

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Maurice Leakey
Film God

Posts: 5895
From: Bristol. United Kingdom
Registered: Oct 2007


 - posted September 18, 2016 02:07 PM      Profile for Maurice Leakey   Email Maurice Leakey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The S807D does not have a mains switch.
As soon as power is connected the motor runs and the lamp comes on at pre-heat.
The operation of the control knob then tilts the motor to contact one of the plates which, in turn, rotate, thus moving the mechanism.

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Maurice

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Terry Sills
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1423
From: Weymouth,Dorset,England
Registered: Oct 2012


 - posted September 18, 2016 02:23 PM      Profile for Terry Sills     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Always try the most simple solutions first. I agree with Paul. It could be corrosion either on the pins of the lamp or within the lampholder. I have had this problem numerous times. Sometimes when you replace the lamp with an old stock lamp this happens because the pins corrode over time. Examine the pins of the lamp and if they are not bright and shiny just scrape the pins with a craft knife or similar to remove the corrosion. If this does not work then the corrosion is most likely within the lampholder and a few withdrawals and insertions together with some wiggling of the lamp will often work. If not then a replacement of the lampholder is the next most ecomonical step before you go on to more serios issues.

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Paul Adsett
Film God

Posts: 5003
From: USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted September 18, 2016 03:06 PM      Profile for Paul Adsett     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
10 TO 1 it's the lamp socket,

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The best of all worlds- 8mm, super 8mm, 9.5mm, and HD Digital Projection,
Elmo GS1200 f1.0 2-blade
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Panasonic PT-AE4000U digital pj

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Andrew Woodcock
Film God

Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012


 - posted September 18, 2016 06:11 PM      Profile for Andrew Woodcock         Edit/Delete Post 
Not unless the pre heat lamp light is erratic / intermittent also Paul.

This is unclear so far, but if by touching the lamp holder after cleaning the lamp pins, the low light stays on constantly and it still has the full lamp power fault, then it must be a fault on the master switch mechanism somewhere. Could be mechanical, could be electrical equally, of course here.

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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"

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Ingo Helbig
Junior
Posts: 3
From: Perth, Australia
Registered: Sep 2016


 - posted September 19, 2016 02:40 AM      Profile for Ingo Helbig   Email Ingo Helbig   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thank you gentlemen for all your thoughts. What an amazing forum this is with everyone pitching in to help. Cleaning the lamp connector came to nothing, so I began searching for a switch. Nothing was accessible from the rear, but I soon worked our the front panel is easily removed and behind that is a microswitch within the control knob space. It turns out the plastic lever which operates the switch when the knob is turned to the lamp position is broken. I have made temporary repairs by closing the switch with a piece of cardboard. The lamp of course now comes on fully as soon as the power is connected, which is not ideal, but at least I can project film again. I've attached an image of the switch area. I may now try dissembling the knob mechanism to see if the plastic lever can be replaced/repaired. Has anyone done this before? Would I just be opening a can of worms if I tried it?

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Andrew Woodcock
Film God

Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012


 - posted September 19, 2016 03:14 AM      Profile for Andrew Woodcock         Edit/Delete Post 
Better to just try to source a similar sized micro switch Ingo of correct electrical rating or larger,also correct physical size and fit where the mounting screw holes are concerned.

Micro switches are very easily found and very readily available. I doubt it could be too difficult to source another suitable one from your local electronics store there in Oz.

I'm sure someone here will have some kind of service manual for this series of projector giving you an exploded engineering drawing of the assembly so you can work out how to dismantle the assembly correctly and safely without damage to any component.

Good luck Ingo.

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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"

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Brian Fretwell
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1785
From: London, UK
Registered: Jun 2014


 - posted September 19, 2016 06:40 AM      Profile for Brian Fretwell   Email Brian Fretwell   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I don't think the micro switch is faulty, just the lever from the cam, that operates it. That said, changing both at this time might be a good idea, he doesn't want to take it apart twice, if it fails soon after.

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Andrew Woodcock
Film God

Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012


 - posted September 19, 2016 01:09 PM      Profile for Andrew Woodcock         Edit/Delete Post 
Youre right Brian sorry.
I thought it was the micro switch lever which had broken but for those who know these projectors well like Brian here, it was of course, an interlinked lever between cam lobe and switch apparently.

Apologies to Ingo for the incorrect advice given there.

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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"

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Ingo Helbig
Junior
Posts: 3
From: Perth, Australia
Registered: Sep 2016


 - posted September 20, 2016 08:36 PM      Profile for Ingo Helbig   Email Ingo Helbig   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks Andrew and Brian, Yes its the plastic lever from the cam which seems to be either broken or come adrift. its located behind the knob mechanism shown in the picture. I'll have a go at dissembling it sometime soon and see if its repairable. Thanks again for everyone's help. Ingo

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