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Author Topic: Enlarging a gate for 16mm Scope?
Claus Harding
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1149
From: Washington DC
Registered: Oct 2006


 - posted November 18, 2007 11:01 PM      Profile for Claus Harding   Email Claus Harding   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Again,

Not being much of the engineering type, but definitely of the curious kind, here is a question:

Would enlarging an Eiki SSl-type gate be something feasible and worthwhile?
Here are the basics: I am now running an Eiki 3500-series with a good anamorph in front and I would love to see a more 'true' 'Scope image, given what is on the film.

With 16mm locked into the 2:1 ratio, it would be nice to get some leverage on films so you wouldn't have quite as severe a 'width-vs.-height' issue regarding the frame right from the gate, if the printing of the film permits.

I'd be happy to take a gate from one of my SSls and get more headroom if possible. I am assuming something like a Dremel-tool, to grind things with precision might be the thing, but you tell me.

My main concern is not to do something that leaves burrs or imperfections that would scratch the film.

Best,
Claus.

--------------------
"Why are there shots of deserts in a scene that's supposed to take place in Belgium during the winter?" (Review of 'Battle of the Bulge'.)

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Maurice Leakey
Film God

Posts: 5895
From: Bristol. United Kingdom
Registered: Oct 2007


 - posted November 19, 2007 06:26 AM      Profile for Maurice Leakey   Email Maurice Leakey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Claus

You cannot enlarge a 16mm gate. A 'scope image on a 16mm print is the same as a standard 4 x 3.

With a x2 anamorphic you will get a 'scope ratio of 1:2.66. This is much wider than a 35mm 'scope picture. The wide-screen 35mm gate is masked top and bottom, but for 'scope showing the aperture plates are basically square.

So, with 16mm you really need to decrease the size of the aperture plate to simulate correct ratio for 'scope showing. I know that this is a stupid comment, although when I used to project 16mm in a mini cinema in the 70's we used to have card cut-outs leaning on the port glass the get the correct shape for the screen.

The old Bell & Howell blimp models used to have an adjustable gate with a lever at the top which brought in masking at top and bottom as the lever was pushed over. If you can find one of these old projectors (previous to about 1962) you could experiment with ratios.

Maurice

--------------------
Maurice

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John Whittle
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 791
From: Northridge, CA USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted November 19, 2007 09:24 AM      Profile for John Whittle   Email John Whittle       Edit/Delete Post 
Claus,

Don't attempt to widen the gate. First what's one the film? It's the SMPTE standard of .284 x .380 and it's the 1.33 aspect ratio. Your scope lens has a compression ratio of 2x which means it will expand the picture by a factor of 2.

There is no more information on the film and what you have in fact has been cropped from the 35mm original which is 2.39:1. The first 35mm Cinemascope pictures were 2.55:1 but when the optical track was added, image area was reduced in width and the picture was changed. Over the years this standard has changed slightly since early scope pictures when shown in their full ratio would show splice lines on the screen.

As for the Eiki aperature. You'd need a small hard cutting stone (National Camera was a source when they were in business) and you would have to work very slowly and constantly check your results on screen to make sure you didn't wind up with slanted edges.

It's common practice in 35mm to "file aperature plates" but these are undersize and used to match the projected image to screen size and normal result in a picture actually being less than what's on the film but fitting the screen. This was very important when running a dual projector booth and you had to change lenses and aperature plates when going between 1.33, 1.85, and scope. And you had to change screen masking as well.

As far as I recall, in the portable projector line, there was only one version of the Bell & Howell 302 magnetic sound projector which had an adjustable aperature plate for 1.85. It was either the "K" or "L" but everytime I see one on ebay with good pictures, I can't see the little lever on the top of the aperature plate that changed the top and bottom size. Also since the B&L didn't have optical framing, you had to adjust the aspect ratio and then re-frame and often readjust the tilt of the projector. This whole effort was not for scope, but rather hard matted 1.85 prints which were few and far between.

John

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Claus Harding
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1149
From: Washington DC
Registered: Oct 2006


 - posted November 19, 2007 01:30 PM      Profile for Claus Harding   Email Claus Harding   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Maurice and John, thanks for your responses.

I didn't write this quite the way I thought about it; what I had in mind was the height of the gate, not the width.

Unless I am missing something here, with a working ratio in 16mm of 1:2.66, the print in question ('The Bounty', 1984; shot in 1:2.35) would have to be matted off top or bottom when made to maintain the extra width for 16mm.

However, when moving the framing lever, there is some more picture information before I hit the frame lines, so hence my question, to try to re-establish as much of the height as possible. Or is this a wild goose chase [Smile]

How did we get to have one 'set-in-stone' aspect ratio in 16mm when it came to scope? Or were variations made?

Claus.

--------------------
"Why are there shots of deserts in a scene that's supposed to take place in Belgium during the winter?" (Review of 'Battle of the Bulge'.)

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John Whittle
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 791
From: Northridge, CA USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted November 21, 2007 03:14 PM      Profile for John Whittle   Email John Whittle       Edit/Delete Post 
What you get on 16mm is what the lab gives you. The 2x anamorphic lens matched the compression of the 35mm negative so no optical squeeze or unsqueeze was needed. But since the overall frame size of a 35mm scope frame is more square than rectangle, you get the 2.35 (actually now the standard is 2.4 according to SMPTE) ratio. You're not going to get the correct 2.35 from that print.

For a while, Warners made special prints for Inflight that were optically unsqueezed and they used a 1.75x anamorphic and got the 2.35 aspect ratio. Those lenses are rare but around and some of the prints are around as well. But if you really want 2.35 then it's best to go with 35mm. The likelyhood of getting a studio to have a special print made up for you at that aspect ratio are nil and even if labs still had the optics, the cost would be many thousands of dollars for the negative and print (and as we know, studios don't sell prints to collectors).

The other common aspect ratio in 16mm and 8mm was 2:1 which was accomplished with an anamorphic with a 1.5x squeeze. There are many of those around now on ebay. Most of the Vistascope lenses are 1.5x although they made a 2x for 16mm as well. The Bolex and Yashicascope lenses are 1.5x.

John

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Claus Harding
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1149
From: Washington DC
Registered: Oct 2006


 - posted November 21, 2007 05:31 PM      Profile for Claus Harding   Email Claus Harding   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
John,
Thanks for following up on this; I just wanted to make sure I remembered some of the basic ratios, and I knew darn well that 'Bounty' looked more like '2001' (Super Panavision) than conventional 'scope when I tested the reel. But, nonetheless, it's an impressive experience to see.

Appreciate all the input,
Claus.

--------------------
"Why are there shots of deserts in a scene that's supposed to take place in Belgium during the winter?" (Review of 'Battle of the Bulge'.)

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John Whittle
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 791
From: Northridge, CA USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted November 22, 2007 10:03 AM      Profile for John Whittle   Email John Whittle       Edit/Delete Post 
Claus,

For more than you'll ever want to know (or need to know) visit Marty's Widescreen Museum

http://www.widescreenmuseum.com/

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