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I am so glad this forum exists. I do not use the forum like I should but believe I will when I get closer to putting my film together. I was using my Samsung S25 phone to set my camera settings on my Bolex Rex5 as well as see a preview of how the shot will look. I have a roll of ISO 100 daylight film and was planning to shoot at 24fps with a RX lens. I set my shutter at 1/60 sec (24 fps w/RX lens) and iso at 65 (2/3 stop down, light loss from prism). When I looked outside on a cloudy day to see my preview shot. I was seeing a washed out image as if it was too bright and could not see the green grass as everything was too light of an image. I could not believe that it was too bright with ISO 100 and that I would need to put a filter over my lens to reduce the light. Does sound right? or am I doing something wrong? It was approx. mid day. Not until the sun was was much further down approx. 8:00pm today did the view look reasonable for shooting. Just want to get some thoughts on this. Thanks guys
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What F-stop were you using on the phone for measuring?
I just pointed my meter at the sunny summer day outside, set at 64 ASA, and to get a 1/60th of a second, I was at f10, so I would count on near an F11 with 100 ASA film.
The speed is what hits the exposure here; 1/60 is fairly slow compared to the 'normal' still pic shooting speeds, so, yes, the f-stop will need to be crunched down. I was shooting in the Middle East last spring, and my "F" in summer weather was 22, again because of maintaining the shutter rates for moving images.
For better control, get a set of different Neutral Density filters so you can get your "F' stop up into the creative range (2.8-through 8), as opposed to just slamming it shut to get an exposure at all.
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Paging Robert...did you see the answer?Comment
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Paging should be using Robert Dreyer (using @ + type his first name and then scrolling down for his name) or quote directly on his previous post like I do here.Originally posted by Claus Harding View Post
Good luck...Comment
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Sorry, I was involved with a lot of things. I was not using the meter on the phone other than setting the iso and speed. What the camera revealed, I thought, was the image based on what the camera f/stop was capable of shooting. The camera did not have an f/stop but a EV setting that changed as I moved the camera to more or less light. I was hoping to stay with my hand held meter (Gossen Luna Pro) and set my exposure based on the cine setting at 24 fps. The f/stop was around f/20 with the settings of 64 iso and 1/60/sec. I was told I should not trust that the developed 16mm footage to mirror the image given in my phone as the sensors and how light passes with video and film is totally different. All I wanted to do is merely get a good perception of exposure and with my phone camera attached to the viewfinder (see my most recent posting) I would be able to use the Bolex without having my eye directly behind the viewfinder, as I was it would make the filming process much more versatile. I live in a rain shadow in the Pacific NW (Washington) so it is pretty sunny here. Like you were saying, just make sure I am setting it at 64 iso and 1/60, it should give me a fairly accurate reading and to decide what filters from there. I am writing some simple scripts to see how this all works. Having used S-8 cameras when I was a teen and wasted a lot of film on nonsense stuff, I want to make every shot count with the cost of film and developing. Thank You, I did get different filters ie an adjustable ND filter, colored (half and full) and a polarizer. Thanks for the tip of staying within the f/2.8 through 8. I was a little unclear on that. I do want to get familiar with low light shooting ie candle and other night shots with just an overhead street light for dramatic look. I know people have used a key light to simulate that the candle light is creating the light on the face. I plan to play around with this. I will compare to see how far off the exposure is between my phone camera and the film.Comment
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