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Adding to my previous post, Can anyone tell me if using any digital camera set at the same settings as as the Bolex 16mm, adjusting for light loss, provide an accurate exposure view of the Bolex?
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Hi!
The answer is: „no“ - even when you turn off all the automatisms (AWB, sharpening, edge enhancement, noise reduction, …).
The reason is that the chip behaves differently than film („sees“ colors differently, might even „see“ infrared, gives different colors/shades of grey, reacts differently to over-/underexposure, has different contrast, has different latitude, …). Not to mention that the video camera‘s screen/viewfinder might automatically compensate for over-/underexposure in order to allow proper framing. -
Thank You for the response. I appreciate having an experienced cinematographer to bounce ideas as well as trouble shooting. As for a digital camera, does this also apply to the newer phone cameras ie Samsung S25? When I enter the adjusted ISO and associated shutter speed, I get this very low light image indoor (due to the 100 iso film) but when I look outside it washes out everything on bright but overcast day. Didn't know if this may be normal. I guess I could shoot the film based on the exposure reading on the phone (not a web meter) using just the manual settings in the "Pro" phone setting. Regardless, do you thing using the phone settings, it will at least be consistent so I can use it as a base setting to refer to?Comment
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I am also looking for ways to view the scene remotely as I would like to move the camera on a dolly. Do you know how I can set up a monitor through the viewfinder (without letting light in) allowing me to see the shot as the camera is moving? I was thinking of placing a phone camera or other small CC camera to attach to the viewfinder.Comment
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Robert, for the Dolly you‘ll simply need a „video assist“, e.g. this one: https://www.testedsuper8cameras.com/...0x-viewfinder/ (contact the shop - the item will probably be back in stock soon).
As for the other task: no, sorry. There’s a reason for all the „certain filmstock simulation“-filters that can be used in post in your video editor unless they are already included in your digi cam - see https://fujiframe.com/film-simulations as an example (and yes, these Fuji cameras are lacking simulations for all current Kodak/Foma/Orwo/… stocks).
All you can do is to use your smartphone as an external lightmeter (using the proper app) or simply check which f-stop the digital camera or smartphone is using for the same shutterspeed and ISO (compensated by the filter factors and the light loss the camera has).
(If I remember correctly, the Bolex has a non-permanent mirror resulting in a flickering viewfinder image, but also in a loss that can be ignored. So you will only have to compensate for ND-filters, Wratten 80a, Wratten 85, …)
BTW: When you are comparing different light meters, keep in mind that they might give different readings simply because they are using different methods - one might be more center weighted than the other… .Comment
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A minor correction:
https://www.cadrage.app
This app isn’t only simulating a director’s viewfinder, but now also allows you to use LUTs (aka filmstock emulators). So you might come close enough to your wanted result. But keep in mind that the result will not be 100% correct. It’s only an approximation. There will be situations where the chip‘s reaction differ from any film and where no LUT can fix this. This will be especially true in „extreme situations“ (over-/underexposure, too dark, too bright, filming in snow or at a beach, …).Comment
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