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I've been collecting 16mm film for nearly 8 years and I've always wondered about what kind of dupes my prints are. I have some with clear sprockets; B&W films with black sprockets; Eastman films with red/brown sprockets; Eastman films with clear sprockets; and LPP prints that have a bit of an orange color near the sprockets, but are mostly clear in color. I was wondering how I would be able to tell if I had a reduction, a dupe, or an original.
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Joshua
Many black & white 16mm dupes are made by contact printing from a positive (i.e., not a negative), this entails emulsion to emulsion.
Therefore, a dupe will have its emulsion on its opposite side from a normal release print.
It may often entail a rather contrasty print, and sound that is not too good. The latter because the exciter lamp slit is set for the other side of the film.
Maurice -
Maurice - Does it make any difference with the emulsion being on the opposite side in terms of being more easily scratched during projection? The reason I ask is that I recently bought a my first 16mm dupe, but as my projector has since died, I have not been able to project it.Comment
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Melvin
I can see no reason why any more scratching would be caused to the emulsion being on the opposite side from usual.
The sound might not be perfect, although some projectors like my Kodak Pageant have a lever for an adjustment of the exciter lamp beam.
Maurice
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Thank you for that, Maurice. Also interesting / important to know about the effect to the optical sound.....and that the sound reproduction quality may not be due to a badly recorded track.Comment
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