Eumig P8 - Standing image not working

[Maurice Leakey]

According to Van Eck, the Eumig P8 Phonomatic uses the 12v 100w A1/193.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ATLAS-A1-...wAAOSwAO5dmgh-

Maurice

[Simon Wyss]

It’s not a belt but just on O-Ring. Try a 3 mm by 65 mm one. Or close to that.

[Tom Dennis]

Hello KOOS, Received your p.m. with details.Have picked your belt and tested on a P8 NOVA that was on the bench.This machine had all the old belt gunge problems I mentioned earlier.
Your lamp base information has me confused.Originaly all P8 were fitted with A1/186 lamps base BA15s but there were conversions to I.Q.lamps using A1/215 lamps baseG6.35 .
If you have the latter you are in luck as the lamps are a little whiter[giving a slightly brighter output] and considerably cheaper to replace.

Searching projector lamp A1/186 and projector lamp A1/215 for pictures will tell you as these lamps are very different in appearance.

I will let you know when I am posting your bits


REGARDS TOM

[Tom Dennis]

Wie gehts KOOS, I have your p.m. There will be no problem sending you as per your last post.What we need to establish is the precise model of your P8.This most easilly done with the lamp. With you saying your lamp baffle is a bit melted I am thinking it is a tungsten lamp either 2pin or 4pin.THE later series [ designated NOVO] used a 2pin IQ lamp.

The reason for asking is that whilst drive belts never varied during production the lamphouse baffles did,and the instructions also.

If you p.m.with your address I will send via letter post before BREXIT !!!!!! at no cost to you

[Koos Walle]

there is an unused 55mm O-ring in a small box my father had with it, but that seems definitely too small. I can hardly get in on, and it tilts motor too.

Just asking... Tom, would you be able to send me a manual together with a 63mm O-Ring? Also when you have a spare, the plastic lid at the top is a bit melted.

I am surprized the solution with the standing image was so easy I was afraid I had to take it all apart. I have so many good memories, watching those family movies when I was a kid. The oldest are from 1965. This is so nice to get the original projector working again.

[Maurice Leakey]

Belts available on eBay.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153553992683

Maurice

[Tom Dennis]

Good Day KOOS.

I am pleased to hear that there seems to a solution in sight.,I have allways fitted round belts to these machines, as I see a lot of these machines I buy these in bulk, normally 62x3 mm. nitrile material O rings, a round section ensures a swift change from movie to still as the belt is turnimg.These are readily available singly on E-BAY There should be no reason to bend the unit. as they they very rarely require any adustment.

Did you manage to obtain any instructions? I have some but not the ability to scan and send, might be able to mail.

Regards

[Koos Walle]

I understand it now! The bright white unit was removed, and it was inside a small box. I had no idea what it was for. I put it back it in, but it doesn't work well with the square replacement belt. So I guess that's why my father took it out. I need get a round belt, and then it probably will work. The white unit is not distorted in any way, fits nicely flat against the fan unit. There seems no way to adjust it. I would be temped to bend it a little bit, but is that how it's done? Well first I need to get a new belt and then try it. Do you know the dimensions of it? Thank you so far!

[Dominique De Bast]

Although several projectors offer the facility of projecting a "standing image", I would suggest not to use that feature (or as less as possible). It's certainly not good, nor for the film nor for the projector.

[Maurice Leakey]

Confirming my previous thought.

[Tom Dennis]

Good day KOOS,

I don't know how far you have dismantled your machine, but before taking apart did you check the operation of still throw switch? This is the bright metal unit which the belt passes through.Operating the still lever under the lamp house moves this forward and moves the drive belt from the drive pulley(black} th the still pulley{white} which freewheels thus disengages the drive.
When operated this unit should be swift and precise. Problems I have include belt gunge causing the unit to be sluggish,pullies gunged up causing belts not to slide across, also the unit must be seated correctly.Also make sure the unit is not distorted, it should lie flat against the fan cowling.
I have also come across belt problems with these units changing a belt which seems o.k. to a slightly smaller one [as little 1mm} has solved the problem.May be your old belts are a little stretchy with age?
Regards TOM.

[Koos Walle]

Thanks Maurice! when I operate the lever, the heat filter drops, that part works. But the film transport keeps on running. Just to ensure cooling via the motor fan, the motor has to keep on runnung. So there must be some mechanical action needed to stop the film transport, still with a running motor. It's not the belt as you suggest. There is nothing inside which can move the belt. Perhaps I am doing something wrong or something is defective.

I tried every combination of the main knob and the lever. Nothing stops the film transport.

I have it all apart on the bench now. That is so frustrating to put it back together and not have it repaired.

Just my question to other users: What do you do, to have a still standing image? Just operate only the lever, or is an additional operation needed?

Thanks in advance for your help!

[Maurice Leakey]

Koos
By pulling back the still switch the heat filter should drop and film should stop. Not sure about the motor stopping, perhaps the lever moves the drive belt somehow. You can get printed manuals from Oldtimer Cameras.
https://www.camera-manual.com/model/...ra-manual-3628

Maurice

[Koos Walle]

Hello,

this is my first post here, I hope somebody can help me.

I have been restoring my father's Eumig P8 Phonomatic, which has been resting since 35 years. Basically it still worked, but the motor ran too slow due to friction in the bearings. I found in many other places the old grease needed removal and cleaning. Virtually everywhere. My father included some replacement belts for the motor even. Very thoughtful, because the old belt was slipping, and his 1970's or so replacement belts were still good. After all grease was replaced (for as far as I could take it apart) it runs smoother now as it seems from my memories as a kid.

I remember it can project a standing image, but that does not seem to work. There is a handle for it, but when I operate it, it only dims the light, via the "gold filter" but the motor keeps on running. When I reduce the motor speed, I can get it down to zero, but below a certain speed, there is this a mechanical safety which cuts off the light beam (mechanical).

Is something broken, or am I not using it in the right way perhaps? And here is my next question, does anyone have the manual for me as a pdf?

Thanks in advance for your help!