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The rule of thumb is to replace a capacitor with the same capacitance, but greater or equal voltage rating. The cap in the schematic is 330uF, 80V if you find 330uF, 100V fine, if 330uF and 50V, Nope!
Modern capacitors will usually be smaller. (Sometimes I think they keep making them smaller just because my eyesight isn't what it used to be!)
Electrolytics are polarity sensitive: please connect the (+) on the new part in the same place the (+) on the old one was or you'll have quite a story to tell!
Older parts were usually pretty plainly marked, after all: they had a lot of room to work with. Some newer components are so tiny that marking them is completely futile. The tiniest are delivered on perforated tapes on reels (8mm and 16mm for some reason...) and loaded into automatic pick and place machines to be soldered onto PC boards. The tapes and reels are labeled and once they are threaded up the machine does the rest.
Modern capacitors will usually be smaller. (Sometimes I think they keep making them smaller just because my eyesight isn't what it used to be!)
Electrolytics are polarity sensitive: please connect the (+) on the new part in the same place the (+) on the old one was or you'll have quite a story to tell!
Older parts were usually pretty plainly marked, after all: they had a lot of room to work with. Some newer components are so tiny that marking them is completely futile. The tiniest are delivered on perforated tapes on reels (8mm and 16mm for some reason...) and loaded into automatic pick and place machines to be soldered onto PC boards. The tapes and reels are labeled and once they are threaded up the machine does the rest.
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