N00b question. Rehab of a Kodascope 8 Model 70

[Matt Baldacci]

I bought this projector in order to view a cache of 8mm Kodachrome reels taken by my grandparents in the 50s and 60s. The idea is to use the projector to sort out what should be digitized. Step one is to rehab the projector, so I'm here for all the advice. The motor runs (ran for about 30 seconds and then I turned it off). I haven't tested the lamp, though seller says it works. (Fingers crossed). I have the operating manual as a PDF, so I know a few things, but mostly, I know nothing. Bad things: the knob for the motor and lamp is cracked in half. I intend to address that with epoxy. I need to clean everything, including the lens. The pin that moves the lens allowing it to be removed is seized up. (in the first picture, i'm referring to the pin on the lens that is pointing to 7 o'clock). The manual says to use some sewing machine oil sparingly in three different spots (two holes on top and the "safety shutter oil retainer" inside the housing. I have to clean the gate.

Questions: any advice on getting the seized lens out for cleaning? Any advice on cleaning the gate? The instructions are pretty specific, but I'm unfamiliar with the process. I need a take up reel. Any advice on where to get a take up reel and/or which size I should get? Here's a really stupid one: looking at the pictures, do I have the correct projector for the small reels I have? Finally, what haven't I asked that I should ask before trying to make this projector work? Looks like you have an amazing forum here, hope you can help me out.

[Ken Finch]

If my memory serves me right the lens barrel has a helical screw thread and the pin at the front of the lens is to enable it to be rotated in the barrel for focusing. The lens barrel may be too tight in its housing to enable it to be rotated. A drop of the oil you mentioned may do the trick. I am thinking the pin on the front of the lens is to enable you to rotate it. It is not a machine I am that familiar with.

[Ed Gordon]

Matt, if you just want to view each reel to decide if you want to digitize the films there are other options. I would not take on a project to restore a projector that was introduced in 1937. Those films you have are priceless and can never be replaced. It would be a dangerous to put that film in an antique projector that has the potential to do serious damage. A better option would be to find a working 8mm viewer/editor like this one:



How many films do you have? The box you showed is a 50 foot reel that runs about three minutes. Most digitizing services charge by the foot, so you can get an estimate on the cost to digitize your films. You can also look into getting a newer projector that is already in good working order and simply capture the projected image onto video with your smartphone. You will find a wealth of options to digitize movies in the forum section:

https://8mmforum.film-tech.com/vbb/f...tal-conversion

If you decide that you don't want to spend the time or money on this, just leave the films in the cardboard boxes and store them in a cool, dry place. They will probably outlive us all.

When shopping for projectors, be sure to find out what type projection bulb it uses. Many of the bulbs are no longer made, and the few that remain can cost a small fortune.

Check the 8mm equipment for sale section on this forum. Anyone who has been a member here for awhile would be a good source for equipment and advice.

[Joseph Banfield]

You need to pull the film out of the box for us to see if it is standard 8mm or Super 8...it could be either. Your projector is standard 8mm only so will require a standard 8mm takeup reel or a new Super 8 reel with an 8mm adapter insert would also work.

Your projector looks complete with all its belts in place. The power cord looks to be in good condition too from what I can see of it. But you will have to remove that stuck lens though or you won't be able to focus the image! The lamp is the typical for the time tubular type with a p28s base rated for about 25 hours of operation and a maximum wattage of 500 watts. But you can use any wattage lamp in that projector as long as it is below 500 watts or you risk cracking the condensor lens that sits in front of it from excessive heat.

But until you free up that lens there is really no point in moving forward because that is a must!

[Matt Baldacci]

These are exactly the kinds of helpful and professional responses I hoped for. Thank you so much.

Ken - I'll post a reply if I try to get the lens off and what success I had.

Ed, now I kinda wished I'd posted first. Thank you for the info, and now I have to do some research. The IDEA of restoring this projector is exciting, but while I have the will and I think I have the patience, who knows if I do or not? May just have to try to do it, even if I choose a different route to view the films. I think they're priceless too. My mom put them out for trash and the box got lightly rained on. I found them the next morning when I took some trash out for her, and "rescued" them. The labels are incredible: "March 1947"; "Yellowstone 1955". I got a quote to digitize them all and it was about $2,200.

Joseph, Thank you. I have some other formats as well, and I've added those pictures here. Could you help me identify?

I have eight of the 7" cans; about 25 of the smaller reels, and one of the reels in the larger box, which is a wider format: 16mm? That one has sprocket holes on both sides of the film.

[Ed Gordon]

This is 16mm (silent). 16mm sound would be the same width, but no sprocket hole on one side where the sound would be recorded. All others pictures would be 8mm.






The easiest way to digitize 8mm/Super 8 is to buy a Wolverine machine ($400). It will not give you the best quality, but I find it fits my needs. See discussions of the various methods on the forum.

There are various brands of this device out there. You can find used ones on Ebay, but keep in mind that these were made cheaply enough to digitize a relatively small number of films. More expensive devices based on converted projectors are available. I would go for the cheaper solution. If you don't like the results you still have the original films you can send out to have professionally digitized.

[Matt Baldacci]

Thank you Ed, super helpful, confirmed what I thought. Just a clarifying question please. Is the film I have Super 8 or 8mm? Since the sprocket holes on my films look larger, I'm guessing 8mm. (It's what you said, but the graphic shows Super 8). And then I'm assuming that the 8mm would work with the projector I have if I decided to go that route (unlikely).

[Ed Gordon]

Matt, I noticed that and added another graphic to the post above comparing 8mm and Super 8

[Joseph Banfield]

Matt, all the 8mm films from your photos are standard 8mm which is what your Kodascope projector uses. The wider one however is 16mm and would require a different projector. But rest assured there are no Super 8 films in your photos.