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  • SUN/BULB switch issues

    Hallo all. I'm new here and very grateful to have found this forum.

    I've recently started using 8mm again, and brought a refurbished Braun Nizo 801 Macro. As with my previous 35 year old Elmo camera, this has a SUN/BULB switch. I am unclear how and when I should use this with the range of Vision 3 colour negative films from Kodak. I would be extremely grateful if someone could throw some light on what seems to be a rather confusing issue.

    So far I have understood this. Back in the 70s, when I used to make films regularly, all super 8mm films were tungsten balanced. If you used Kodakchome 40 to shoot outside, you would set the SUN/BULB switch to SUN. This would then put a Wratten filter on the lens in the camera, to adjust the colour balance for natural light.

    I don't know whether the D films that Kodak now make are, like their 70s predecessors, balanced for tungsten so that I would need to set the switch to SUN and thereby introduce the filter, or whether the film is in fact balanced for daylight and that, therefore, I should - counter-intuitively - set the switch to BULB (which would remove the filter).

    Kodak's range of T films initially present a lesser problem. If they are balanced for artificial light, I guess under these conditions I should should set the switch to BULB, thereby removing the filter. However, if I were to shoot some footage in daylight, should I then set the switch to SUN (introducing the wratten filter) to correct the colour balance. Or is the film capable of shooting correctly in both artificial and daylight conditions - so that whatever the conditions, I should set the switch to BULB?

    These questions are clearly those of a novice technophobe, so, I would be grateful for the forbearance of the other members of the forum. But I really would appreciate some help in resolving these issues.


  • #2
    Martin
    I haven't shot any Super 8 film for many years but have just searched via Google for answers which I hope will be of assistance.

    Vision 3 500T/7219 colour negative is for tungsten illumination at ASA 500.
    Vision 3 50D/7203 colour negative is for daylight at ASA 50.

    Vision 3 200T/7213 colour negative is ASA 200 for tungsten without a filter. For daylight filming it's ASA 125 with an 85 filter.

    https://www.widescreen-centre.co.uk/...film-7219.html



    Maurice

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    • #3
      The new Kodak Ektachrome 100D is balanced for daylight and therefore doesn't need the #85 filter in the light path. I've shot several rolls of this new reversal stock and it's the best one yet! However I have found this new stock needs a bit more light and seems to expose better at 80 ASA instead of 100 ASA. My cure for this was to open the aperture by one f-stop. So if the auto-exposure is showing F-16 you would open to F-8. This extra light really helps to expose the entire scene much nicer. I've done this with all my rolls since discovering this after the first roll was processed. If you watch some of these digital telecined movies people have uploaded to YouTube you will notice the darker scenes. Anyways just some tips for shooting this new reversal stock. Projected this stuff is beautiful if exposed properly. Even on cloudy days this stock looks vivid color wise.
      PS: In bright conditions use of a neutral density filter is a must. It cuts the light down and also exposes this film at a better f-stop. The procedure I mentioned above for opening the aperture still applies after screwing on a ND filter.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Shane C. Collins View Post
        The new Kodak Ektachrome 100D is balanced for daylight and therefore doesn't need the #85 filter in the light path. I've shot several rolls of this new reversal stock and it's the best one yet! However I have found this new stock needs a bit more light and seems to expose better at 80 ASA instead of 100 ASA. My cure for this was to open the aperture by one f-stop. So if the auto-exposure is showing F-16 you would open to F-8. This extra light really helps to expose the entire scene much nicer. I've done this with all my rolls since discovering this after the first roll was processed. If you watch some of these digital telecined movies people have uploaded to YouTube you will notice the darker scenes. Anyways just some tips for shooting this new reversal stock. Projected this stuff is beautiful if exposed properly. Even on cloudy days this stock looks vivid color wise.
        PS: In bright conditions use of a neutral density filter is a must. It cuts the light down and also exposes this film at a better f-stop. The procedure I mentioned above for opening the aperture still applies after screwing on a ND filter.
        Thanks very much for that Shane. It's very helpful. Would I be right in assuming that when you shoot with the Ektachrome you have the SUN/BULB switch on your camera set to BULB - so as to remove the internal filter on your camera?

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Maurice Leakey View Post
          Martin
          I haven't shot any Super 8 film for many years but have just searched via Google for answers which I hope will be of assistance.

          Vision 3 500T/7219 colour negative is for tungsten illumination at ASA 500.
          Vision 3 50D/7203 colour negative is for daylight at ASA 50.

          Vision 3 200T/7213 colour negative is ASA 200 for tungsten without a filter. For daylight filming it's ASA 125 with an 85 filter.

          https://www.widescreen-centre.co.uk/...film-7219.html



          Maurice
          That's very helpful. Thank you Maurice.

          Comment


          • #6
            Martin, the Ektachrome stock is indeed an outdoor one, so the internal filter has to be removed (by using the "bulb position").

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Martin Nichols View Post

              Thanks very much for that Shane. It's very helpful. Would I be right in assuming that when you shoot with the Ektachrome you have the SUN/BULB switch on your camera set to BULB - so as to remove the internal filter on your camera?
              Martin it depends on the camera really. Not all have this sun/bulb symbol or switch. On my Elmo Super 110 there is a plastic bracket that slides into a set of grooves at the back and front of the camera. So if I'm shooting daylight film (Ektachrome) I would slide this plastic bracket on the back top part of the camera. As this bracket slides under a grooved area it trips the #85 orange filter to retract out of the light path. On most cameras you can hold the camera up to bright light and look down the lens barrel to locate the filter. As you turn the dial or insert a bracket you would see the filter either retract or slide into the light path. That's one way to find out if the filter is working properly. The easiest way to see the filter clearly is to open the zoom lens all the way to infinity, and turn the distances to fully open. This will enlarge what you see down inside the lens.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Shane C. Collins View Post
                The new Kodak Ektachrome 100D is balanced for daylight and therefore doesn't need the #85 filter in the light path. I've shot several rolls of this new reversal stock and it's the best one yet! However I have found this new stock needs a bit more light and seems to expose better at 80 ASA instead of 100 ASA. My cure for this was to open the aperture by one f-stop. So if the auto-exposure is showing F-16 you would open to F-8. This extra light really helps to expose the entire scene much nicer. I've done this with all my rolls since discovering this after the first roll was processed. If you watch some of these digital telecined movies people have uploaded to YouTube you will notice the darker scenes. Anyways just some tips for shooting this new reversal stock. Projected this stuff is beautiful if exposed properly. Even on cloudy days this stock looks vivid color wise.
                PS: In bright conditions use of a neutral density filter is a must. It cuts the light down and also exposes this film at a better f-stop. The procedure I mentioned above for opening the aperture still applies after screwing on a ND filter.
                If I'm not mistaken, one stop larger than f/16 is f/11. F/8 would be 2 stops or 4 times as much exposure...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Agreed with Larry.
                  Apertures get one stop larger as follows:-
                  f/32, f/22, f/16, f/11, f/8, f/5.6, f/4, f/2.8, f/2, f/1.4.


                  Maurice

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Oops yep you guys are right I missed an f-stop.

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