Tweet
I am having trouble with my Eumig 610D. Since the drive belt snapped and I have changed it for a new one, it is making horrible squealing noises with belt slip. I haven’t got the service manual, but there does not seem to be a way to tension the belt. I have cleaned the pulleys but no different. Only other thing I noticed was the old belt was a V shape but the new one is round in profile. If I stop and start it several times it eventually starts OK until I stop it again . The mechanism seems quite stiff but I think that is normal. Very annoying, anyone else had this problem?
-
-
I can only think that the round profile belt has a lower contact area with the pulleys than the V section one and that is the reason for the slippage. -
-
Yes, you are correct about the round belt being a problem on all the Eumig machines that use this drive mechanism. The original belt is no longer available and everyone is now forced to use round ones, which do work for some people.
The Eumig 610d uses a mechanism that requires very high torque to get it started and that tiny motor is not powerful enough to get the job done on its own. That is why this design uses a coiled spring that is wound up on startup and when fully tightened only then does it engage and start the drive mechanism. All this happens within a second of startup. But if there is any slip on the belt the motor will continue spinning and the belt will stay stationary whithout driving the mechanism and just squeal.
The only solution I have found, and one that works 100% of the time, is quite simple. I place a tiny rubber 0-ring on the nylon pulley designed for 60Hz. This 0-ring must fit tightly on the pulley. Then the drive belt is also fitted so it now makes rubber to rubber contact and the machine starts up everytime with no more slip due to the high required startup torque. The reason why I use the 60Hz pulley instead of the 50Hz side is the tiny O-ring on the 60Hz pulley makes it the same size of the 50Hz side but now with rubber to rubber contact. This trick is quite effective in Europe where we use 50Hz but not sure if it would work in the U.S. though.
But just getting some form of rubber on that slick nylon pulley (use your imagination) will get you up and running, regardless of the incorrect round belts that are being sold for this model.
Comment
-
Thanks Joseph for this tip, I will try it.Comment
-
I've a round belt in my 610D and took the precaution of spraying the belt BEFORE FITTING with some Belt Dressing now slip proof.
Ambersil Belt Dressing is a high quality product which sticks to belts and will also protect them from heat and oxidisation. Comes in a standard aerosol or one with the tube nozzle for more accurate application.Comment
-
-
Interesting....I had never thought of belt dressing before.Comment
-
I tried the O ring trick but no success, so in desperation I thought I would order another drive belt from a different e-bay supplier. When this arrived I was surprised to see this was much thicker in profile (3mm) whereas my existing replacement only measures 2mm. Anyway, having changed the drive belt for the thicker one, no squealing whatsoever. Just shows not all replacement drive belts are equal.
Comment
-
Yes 2mm seems excessively thin I have a 510D and that size replacement belt would worry me.Comment
-
Exactly the sam situ as in the thread I previously referred to, so I bother not to rewrite my comment.
That "genuine" replacement belt is, to be honest, visually identical to a generic o-ring that can be found from most hardware source.
Generally there's nothing wrong with this as long as it works. However in this case this "belt" seems just a tad too thin, making it resting at the bottom end of the pulley groove rather than riding on the sides of it. No wonder why it can't overcome the initial torque of the drive cam. This also explain why the thicker replacement belt works right away.
My solution - buying bulk loads of assorted o-rings from hardware store (I currently have about 20-30 of them in storage). Even none of them fits perfectly but you'll at least have the closest approximation to begin with.
Comment
-
i have been following this subject with interest.
Took a Eumig 614 from the "round to-it" shelf, removed original belt, fitted a 3mm round belt,result -no noise runs fine.
However the content of the contributers was most helpful.
JOSEPH, your explanation of the torque on these machines means thltat I now have a reason for stalling at turn on,this has been bugging me for a while.The instructions simply say "if this happens switch off and start again"
LEE Ambersil new to me, will put a can in.
I am with NANTAWAT regarding belt supply, however the lack of proper hardware stores means I buy mine from a localish specialist supplier, who will supply one belt with free post.It has been quite suprising that the amount of BS belts which are the same as or very close to actual size.
As for 2mm section this is more akin to slide or larger audio machines i.e. reel to reel.
Great post guys ---lots of usefull information and a projector sorted!
Comment
-
I have found that belt dressing is also useful for restoring the 'grip' of the rubber disc drives on the 800 and 900 series projectors. Just apply some to a cotton swab, wipe the whole face of the drive discs, and let dry for several hours.Comment
-
If you buy a new belt from van eck, it is also round instead of the v shaped belt but it fits very good and i have never experienced slipping.Comment
-
Hi I am trying to replace a drive belt in the 610 DD. The manuals instructions are essentially remove back cover replace belt! Easy enough to find the appropriate 50/60 Hz pulleys but I can’t fathom how to position the belt around the drive shaft despite there being dozens and dozens of YouTube videos praising the 610 can’t find one that is useful for replacing the drive belt. Can anyone steer me to a how-to video? Or give me a clue as to how you fit this bill? Thanksg
Comment
Comment