Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Cement Splices vs Tape Splices

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Cement Splices vs Tape Splices

    I found that cement splices project with a lot less picture effect and less noise, clicking, when running through the projector than tape. Tape splices seem to show up much more and are noisier. True for both 16mm & S8. Using Kodak Press Tapes, so not sure how guillotine run. Thoughts.

  • #2
    Hey Tom, also use Kodak here. I feel cement splices run smoother but I also find tape works as well. Shorty

    Comment


    • #3
      I'd say a good cement splice is better than a tape splice, but harder to make. On the other hand a bad cement splice is too easy get.

      I used to be 100% pro-cement splicing until a couple of years ago I went through the tape splices I made on a film I made in high school (I think Calvin Coolidge was in office back then! 😉) and they were all still good as new.

      I have the Bolex Beveled splicer: these are basically as flat and as solid as an uncut piece of film. I started doing them because I got some films striped and the guy doing the striping insisted on these. They are wonderful, but unless you get the cement just right, they break.

      I'm putting together a film that's been sitting unedited about 14 years (better late than never) before this Christmas, and I'm tape splicing this one.

      (-and of course in the case of anything but acetate based films, it has always been tape anyway.)
      Last edited by Steve Klare; November 15, 2020, 04:17 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        My method for joining Super 8 film is probably a bit more unorthodox. For the past 15 years or so I have used super glue to hold my films together. It works great and is much stronger than film cement in my opinion. I use a film splicer and join the films with nice clean joints. I use a toothpick to apply the super glue. It has to be done quickly as the super glue sets up quite fast. I can honestly say I've only had a few splices come loose during projection. In those few rare cases it was because I didn't apply enough super glue. I used film cement in the past but never had much luck.

        Comment


        • #5
          What a good topic! I just acquired a Wollensak cement splicer that comes with a nearly full thing of cement and another little. bottle of water, (don't know what that's for). In fact, I've never even used a tape splicer. HELP!!!!

          Comment


          • #6
            Of course Superglue work on polyester film as well, I believe (with no proof) that is why Kodak were involved with it.

            Comment


            • #7
              Mentioned this before on the old historical forum.
              In the 70's when tape slicers took off we had a heated debate at our film/cine club whether Cement or Tape was better and what effect they each had on projection. The old guys always used Cement of course with us young ones were picking up on tape. The end of the debate concluded that tape which butts up the film is much smoother on projection and being flat and the tape soft did not cause excess wear to the magnetic sound head in our projectors. The Cement of course is rock hard and as it wanders over your magnetic sound heads, particularly if it is over used will cause scratching to the mag head itself. Norisound projectors were a favorite with film makers back then certainly in our club and the heads were reasonably fragile so you could soon see those who were still using Cement joins over the Tape boys and girls having to send projectors away for new mag heads fitting.

              The other thing is with Cement joins typically they are joined overlapping doubling the thickness of film as it lumps over the sound head. Add to this a magnetic stripe sound track and you have a shock in store for the head. Over a fairly short span virtually everyone switched to the legendary Wurker Stereo splicer who's joins were near invisible. The CIR to film makers was no so popular back then.

              The problem if you use a Wurker today is that most of the patches have gone really sticky on the peel side, but the old made splices have stayed solid at least on my films which have been stored well.

              If using the CIR I use Jacro tape as I find its thinner than PEC and less visible on projection. Good luck whichever you use :-)

              Optical sound don't think it really matters.

              Comment


              • #8
                I'd like to add that I only project my Super 8 home movies that are silent. I still use the format for making family movies, etc. So the super glue doesn't pose a problem with a silent projector. I also try to scrape off as much emulsion as possible. It usually leaves a nice smooth joint after the two halves are spliced together. I could see where this method, or using regular film cement, could pose an issue for a projector with a sound head.
                I also treat my Super 8 films with Filmguard after making these splices. I'd imagine that helps the film run smoother through the gate, etc.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Shane,

                  I'm curious how you avoid the spliced film sticking to the splicing block.

                  I agree the splices would be like steel, but I'd be concerned the splicer would join in too!


                  BTW: With regular cement, overlapped splices are easier to get right than the beveled cement splices I do, but I've found that my Elmo sound machined are prone to choking on them as they pass the gate.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Steve,

                    I very carefully apply the super glue to one end of the film (clamped side) with a toothpick. It takes only a small amount and I spread the glue as quick as I can. It does sometimes reach the ends of the film but doesn't stick to the splicing block. I wait about two minutes and release the clamping. I also test the joint by flexing the film a bit to make sure it has a strong hold.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Tape splice for me, had my Agfa for over 20 years and still performs superbly, it's easy and quick and has got me out of trouble more than once. I can see both sides on this as I've used both methods but wouldn't change now, Mark

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        At one time the Agfa S8 automatic pressklebbe was the best selling splicer on the market. Quick, easy and reliable. I'll vouch for that !

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Mark
                          Does the Agfa F8S Klebepresse use special tapes only for this model, or can it use the widely available Hama red and white tapes?


                          Maurice

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Maurice

                            Sorry about the typo (Klebepresse not pressklebbe). My German memory was lousy !

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              The red and white tapes can be used Maurice, Mark

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X