Rubber discs not moving on Eumig 810D

[Gorka Ibanez]

I am starting a new topic as this is different from my previous one.
I just bought an Eumig 810D but when turned on, nothing seems to move. Researching here, the problem seems to be with the rubber discs being worn out (this is only a guess). I opened the back and, althogh there is contact between the discs and the rotating part, the discs don't move.
I am attaching a photo here so you can check.
Any ideas on how this can be fixed?
Thanks a lot.

[Joseph Banfield]

Did you try roughing up and cleaning the discs with alcohol? There are a zillion threads already on the very common Eumig drive disc problem...a quick search should bring up all the info you need.

[Gorka Ibanez]

Thank you, Joseph. I searched around but couldn't find that many threads about this and the ones I found weren't very clear with the instructions. How do I rough them up?

[Gorka Ibanez]

OK, I found it. Clean both discs a few times using cotton buds with either white spirits or Isopropyl alcohol. Let it dry for an hour and try again.

[Erik Snel]

Letting it dry for an hour is not mandatory, i never do that. i take white spirit and a paper towel and just rub the discs until they don't give off black stuff onto the towell. it evaporates very quick and then you are good to go. you may need to do it several times. just last week i did this procedure to an 824 and it runned first very slow and then came up to speed quickly.

[Maurice Leakey]

Lack of general lubrication?
Does the mech turn over when the inching knob is rotated?


Maurice

[Gorka Ibanez]

Thank you, Erik. I learned that from you on a previous thread. I need to buy white spirits as I only have turpentine at home.

[Gorka Ibanez]

I used the white spirits and it worked like a charm. Thank you all for the help.

I have a problem now with the lamp. As it didn't work, I presumed it had to be replaced but when I took it out it seemed fine. However, take a look at the connection piece (photo attached). One of the sides has a spring to secure the connection but the other one is completely worn out/melted. I guess it could be the case of a bad connection but I really don't know how this piece should look like. What do you think? If needed to be replaced, can any modern piece for lamp connection be used or do I need a Eumig replacement?

Last (I hope) is the framing rotating wheel button. It is completely stuck and it doesn't move right or left. Totally lost on how this can be fixed.

[Brian Fretwell]

That is very much worn out. It should just have two holes just bigger than the pins of the lamp in the ceramic face of the lamp connector. It needs to be replaced. This is very common in projectors using the 12v 100w lamp as they overheat the connector, especially if there is any arcing between it and the pins. I have had to do it to at least three that I have. Luckily they are easily available and can be spliced in with a connector block if the new one doesn't have as long a lead as the original.

[Gorka Ibanez]

Thank you, Brian. Can I buy a modern standard one in an electrical shop or do I need an original Eumig replacement?
Any ideas of what could be wrong with the framing rotating button?

[Brian Fretwell]

It is the same as those use for 12v halogen/LED house lighting so it should be available in electrical shops MR16/MR11 is the designation. They may not last as long as the original, but are very cheap on Amazon from £1.

I'm not sure about the framing button as I have never had any trouble with mine but it may be lubrication that has hardened. It may come free with the lamp on to heat the machine.

[Gorka Ibanez]

That's some good news. Same with the lamp, I guess. A regular modern 12v 100W will be sufficient (no need to search online for an Eumig 810D lamp).

Unfortunately, I just tried to load a film and it doesn't load properly. It gets stuck at parts and it already broke some. I am pressing the loading button and everything so I don't know what could be wrong.

[Joseph Banfield]

If your machine is not loading film, have you checked to make sure there are no bits of film stuck in the film path? Was the pulldown pin in the projector's gate busted off from forgetting to set the inching knob on the dot before removing the film gate? I'm sure others will have some ideas too.

[Lee Mannering]

Gorka. The longest lasting treatment to revive the rubber discs is to apply some AMBERSIL BELT DRESSING which can be obtained in a aerosol. Spray a little on a lint free cloth, turn the inching knob on the back of the machine to rotate the discs and apply. This is a one off fix and its not been needed again on any of my machines since. Belt dressing revives the rubber and give 100% traction also helping eliminate audio wow.
Do remember if you do go up the rough up the discs route you will be gradually thinning them down as its likely you will need to do it again.

[Gorka Ibanez]

Thanks, Joseph. For what I can see, everything seems to be fine. I can't access some internal parts of the system to check if there's film stuck in there though.

That's a great tip, les. I'll definitely use the belt dressing next time.