ELMO ST 180E M Projector questions and discussion

[Philip Hamilton]

Hi everyone. I picked up an ELMO ST 180E M projector that seems to be in solid working condition. I've run some sound film through it and am wondering how best to fully check the projector out and best way to clean it etc.

1) When I first turned it on and began running a film - I could not get the SOUND to come on properly - it was static - but then I shifted the the switch from M to SILENT and then back. Then, suddenly SOUND! I ran 4 films through after that and no problem - sound works fine. These films use Track 1 only. Is this common or is there something I need to be concerned about?

Should I just keep it set to '1' and forget about track 2? Also, I have some SILENT films that I would like to project - does it matter if I leave it set to M (for Sound) and just keep the volume down while projecting SILENT?

2) What is the best way to approach cleaning this unit? I would like to be sure and clean the heads where the mag stripe runs - suggestions on approach of that as well as do's and don'ts? Also belt pulley cleaning. Any gotchas there? What NOT to do?

3) Belts and lights are pretty inexpensive for this unit. What should I look for re: inspecting the existing belts when I remove the back cover? Can you point me to any resource on how best to change them - if in fact it's tricky?

4) One time while threading a movie the film did not come out so I stopped the projector and opened the panel and somehow the film got bunched up and did not thread to the rear of the track where the take up reel is. I simply backed it out and re-threaded and it worked fine. What should I look for regarding what might cause this? Is there a way to clean the 'track path' so that film glides through with no problem? This only happened on one film. The rest were fine. I re-trimmed the film on the feeding end to be sure there was a clean cut. I did find a thread where someone mentioned that the ELMO was particular in this way.

Looks like a solid working unit otherwise - just need to know what to look for thanks for all of your help !!

[Philip Hamilton]

With Back taken off. I was expecting black rubber belts in both positions. But one is not.

[Mark Todd]

Hi Philip the odd misthread is usual with film, depending where your leader is facing or how its trimmed etc.

Elmo`s seem to prefer the films done with thier own trimmer.

Also different make or type or thickness of leaders etc etc

Just keep the projector side down as it threads through if in any doubt.

They usually catch just before the heads entrance, or at the 2nd sprocket. Occasionally afer the heads if the film is dipped the wrong way if you will.

Did you take the first inlet shute off, one philips screw yet. And look at the raised guide side on each side where the film dips down before it goes on the first Sprocket.

It looks fairly good in the back any shots of the machine and with its side down etc.

Also have you looked at the sound heads, to see if high and proud and the angled champer on each end is still there ?

Regarding cleaning the heads, I would not worry too much, just a quick once over with a cotton bud usually does it on Elmo`s as long as theres no lodged built up dirt there around them.

Anyway glad you are sorted, great machines, simple and reliable. Usually.

I would not worry about track 2 too much for now.

Best Mark.

PS do you have youtube etc to do a little vid of it threading or running etc.

Also hope you get much fun from the elmo. I think the best quality budget super 8 machine myself.

PS it won`t do any harm to project in sound mode if a silent film, its just about very very very very slight head wear you need not have. You can its fine. You do find the odd sound projector can struggle to keep its loop etc in silent odd times and holds things better overall if the sound unit is closed.Also if in silent depending on some machines the odd bit of the film may sit a bit out loop wise and mark. Don`t worry all will be fine.

What do the loops above and below the gate look like ? when urnning sound films.

[Philip Hamilton]

Thanks. I am not sure EXACTLY WHERE the sound heads are - I want to make sure that I am looking at the right thing. I know where it comes out of the gate downward and moves onto the sound assembly but not sure what I am looking at. I am having a hard time seeing it. Looks tight in there....
Any explanation here would be great and also thanks for the other info!!

[Mark Todd]

Hi Philip working from the little rubber coated brass sound drum roller with the screw in the thin bit of brass sticking out, go immediately left ( slightly up ) theres a metal guide first, then next thats the sound head in line facing up , the little grey plastic pressure pins ( in the rectangle black plastic housing ) press the film down against it, there are 4, the two toward the sound drum/ roller are pressing the mag track on to the mag head. To the left of that is the black recording record head.

At the front side towards you there is a little raised sound head, balance thinner track and futher in the a slightly wider main track head. Facing up toward the grey pins.

The sound head creates its own relief on the film surface if you will.

Here a picture of another make, the elmo one doesn`t have the raised side, but you can see the mag heads.

Anyone got a picture of an elmo head or can put on a pic with a little arrow showing them please.

[Philip Hamilton]

Perfect thanks. I thought so but wanted to make sure...

Now regarding the switch issue I mentioned above. What is happening is when I engage into the M position it doesn't seem to be making good contact - if I press slightly on it when it is engaged SOUND COMES on ! But I don't like the fact that it's fussy.

Is there something that can be done with this? My concern is one day it will completely stop working. I can deal with 'fussy' but it seems to not be making good contact. Is replacing that switch possible and easy?

[Mark Todd]

I`ve just noticed it has the little copper arm under gate loop/forming governor.

Thats the best threading version in the 600 machines.

So thats good.

RE the switch, just work it a few times gently, should be Ok.

Do the heads look nice and proud ?

The closest blance one looks roughly OK from that picture.

Best Mark.

[Philip Hamilton]

I wonder if there is some sort of lubricant or something I could apply to that switch to make it have better contact etc?? I worry that moving it back and forth too much will wear it out or cause it to go out completely. Is this just something common with switches this old?

[Mark Mander]

Philip
moving the switch a few times should be ok, it's not something you have to do each time you use the machine, you can also try contact cleaner, the machine hasn't been used for a while so this is normal on machines in long time storage, your putting voltage around parts again so its expected.

Some grease might need cleaning off and reapplying too on the gears in the back of the machine, all this again is normal on any mechanical old machines, Mark

[Philip Hamilton]

Philip
moving the switch a few times should be ok, it's not something you have to do each time you use the machine, you can also try contact cleaner, the machine hasn't been used for a while so this is normal on machines in long time storage, your putting voltage around parts again so its expected.

Some grease might need cleaning off and reapplying too on the gears in the back of the machine, all this again is normal on any mechanical old machines, Mark

Thanks. I just got off the phone with an Elmo repair guy and he said 'CONTACT CLEANER'. I didn't know what it was called but I knew it needed something to clean and promote a good connection. Thanks for the information on the gears.

This unit has set in a the seller's closet for about 15 years. The belts are in good shape and are original. So on to Amazon to get some contact cleaner.

[Mark Todd]

Hi Philip, I think the belts may be/are slightly later ( better ) replacements looking at them.

Did you try the switch a few times. I would just leave it in the sound setting.

How does it run, in the gate etc, sweet ? and did you look at the inlet shute where the film dips ?

It will be worth getting an Edwin inlet shute job at some point.

https://shop.van-eck.net/PP-0095.html

It will be worth getting a new Xenon/ Xenophot A1/231 which should lift the light output, it may have one in already, though the original Elmo ones were good.

https://www.amazon.com/64627-3144880...6836937&sr=8-1

https://www.osram.com/ecat/Halogen%2...532/ZMP_56079/

Don`t go for a longer life version, get the std 50 hours life ones as much better light output. 64627

If it still has one in with in with Elmo written on it in small red writting it should mean its had little use.

Best Mark.

[Philip Hamilton]

Unit seems to run fine. The seller said it had no more than 3 hours running time before it sat in his closet for the last 15 years. I was told by an elmo tech that the belt appears OEM. And they are good one.

I just order CRC electronic cleaner which will help with the contact issue on the switch. The tech said to squirt it around the tab in both positions. Then, take the forward/reverse knob off just below it and angle the spray up to the switch if possible. I may also try to apply some of the spray from the back but I suspect that is a tight fit. He said it was common for this to happen to a switch that has 'sat' that long and that the spray should help loosen whatever oxidation is in there.

Just waiting on the spray now. Very pleased with this unit.

[Mark Todd]

Hi Philip, the belts are a later replacement original.

When new they had a reddy rubber belt set.

Actually its better as these should last you for a while.

The first ones will be long gone. They often sort of drop to bits in pieces and can even go a bit mouldy !!!

It sounds very nice.

Cracking machine, should last for ages or until you get the pull of the 1200.

Best Mark.

[Philip Hamilton]

Is there an adjustment to the aperture of the ST 180 that will move it horizontally? It seems that although film projects just fine - i see more of the right side of the film edge - in focus - black border around image whereas the left side is slightly out of focus as expected. Seems like the aperture needs to be shifted 'left' just a bit to show more of the left side and less of the right side.

Thoughts and suggestions?

Image created in PHOTOSHOP to illustrate what I am saying.... (see right side)

[Mark Todd]

Hi Philip, this is likely to be a lens alignment issue.

There is a small philips screw to adjust the lens a little left or a little to the right if you will. Other side of the lens, if you swing it out you will see the screw.

Though that image looks pretty good to me.

Its its been adjusted in the past the blue liquid/gel set screw fixer will be broken and the screw will move each way easily.

The factory set up is usually the best and once you start moving that, unless you use fixer again as you flip the lens in and out to unload or clean the gate it will adjust it back out again, unless the screw is pretty tight, some are tight in there , some loose and move easily once snapped off from the fixer if you will.

I supose you can look and see if its been fiddled with, but your actual image looks pretty good across it all.

In essence its a bit cine.

Best Mark.