ELMO ST 180E M Projector questions and discussion

[Tom Photiou]

I think its always best to avoid playing with the lens setting screws or anything within the pressure gate aperture, once moved you can cause all sorts of alignment problems and it doesn't take much to upset it all. Is the lens itself ok and is the projector directly in front of the screen or at a slight angle?

[Philip Hamilton]

Is it this screw? If so, it does have some blue coloring on the thread. Seems like if I turn it clockwise it will press into the tab it rests against and push the lens 'out' away from the aperture. Is this what you are referring to?

[Philip Hamilton]

I think its always best to avoid playing with the lens setting screws or anything within the pressure gate aperture, once moved you can cause all sorts of alignment problems and it doesn't take much to upset it all. Is the lens itself ok and is the projector directly in front of the screen or at a slight angle?

The lens seems just fine. And, the projector is definitely at a 90 degree angle (as close as I can tell) to the screen.

[Mark Todd]

Hi Philip, as Tom says playing around can make things worse.

That is the little screw and in and out pushes the lens a little each way if you will.

If the blue fixer is still intact its at the factory set up and as I mentioned the piture looks pretty good and sharp across the image as is.

With you but I think it looks Ok from here.

Best Mark.

[Philip Hamilton]

Thanks. I don't see how turning that screw would move the lens right or left - seems more like in and out. I presume just by looking at it that the purpose is to provide a 'stop' so the lens will will snap in place securely but then I may not understand the physics of the lens.

I am inclined to leave it alone. But it would be nice to shift that aperture a hair to the left.

[Philip Hamilton]

OK I think I know what I am seeing now....regarding the aperture 'alignment' issue.

The film that I most recently received is MINT Universal 8 200 Series GHOST OF FRANKENSTEIN.

The BLACK line down the right side is pretty prominent which led me to suspect alignment since I have seen this on some other Castle/Universal 8 films.

But then I loaded up a couple of LAUREL and HARDY films from BlackHawk. No BLACK line. Looks normal.

So i went back to GHOST OF FRANKENSTEIN and fiddled with the vertical framer and after looking at this is appears that this black line is in the print itself and apparently others that I have noticed. Not sure why they put it there but it seems to be the issue. So, I ran another Universal 8 DR CYCLOPS. Great print and no BLACK line - looks totally normal.

Has anyone else noticed this on Universal 8/Castle prints before? Seems odd but clearly its a framing issue on the print itself and appears to be intentional.

[Brian Fretwell]

I suppose it could be an over-wide sound stripe. I have had that on a couple of Derann post stripe prints, including one withe the balance stripe th wrong side of the sprockets!!!!

[Philip Hamilton]

I would like to boost light output on the St-180E M. I've been reading about the 2 blade shutter. Where would I get on that would fit this model and more importantly what is the process for installing it?

Thanks!

[Dominique De Bast]

FFR in Germany replaces the original three blade shutter by a two blade one, or better, by a two/three blade shutter. With the late, you can still project at 18 fps without flickering. They do the replacement in their workshop for one of their model but have another one that can be set at home. FFR-Film Idstein - Ihr Partner für Filmtechnik, Schmalfilmzubehör und Kinotechnik 8, 16 und 35mm I advise you to send a message rather than call them since not everybody speaks English there.

[Philip Hamilton]

Thanks for the information - I prefer to be able to make the change myself - if that is possible. Shipping round trip to Germany from the USA would be cost prohibitive.

[Martin Davey]

I don't have that model, but would say you would need a service manual and a good set of screwdrivers for starters. The whole cam unit has to come out I imagine, then part disasembled and put back correctly so that the timing of the mechanism is right. You can turn it from a working projector in to a spare part machine if not careful. Its got a 100w lamp and a three blade shutter, which is a typical S8 machine, and most of us have examples with the same specifications. A 2 bladed shutter will only bring a very slight improvement. I'm sure you realise these devices are not going to give you an output like a digital projector if that is what you are expecting. They were made during the time when a 24" TV was what rich people had! I would say leave it alone until you are familiar with its workings and how 'cine' works, and just enjoy it as it is.

[Dominique De Bast]

The German company provides a model you can put yourself in the projector but it seems to require some skills. A two blade shutter vs a three blade one is supposed to give about 30 % extra light, certainly not a miracle solution but it's not bad in my opinion. It your projector has still the original 1.3 lens, you may consider buying a 1.1 one, which will make a difference. An even better option, is a 1.0 lens but they are more expensive. The advantage of those Elmo lenses is that they fit different models of (Elmo) projectors, so even your projector has eventually a problem, your investment in the lens is not lost.

[Graham Ritchie]

Hi Philip

The ST180 is a really nice projector, I have one. Its up to you, but in this case I would skip converting it to a two bladed shutter, sure you will get more light but a better alternative is a Xenopot Osram 100watt lamp, and finding a good Elmo 1.1 lens instead of the standard 1.3 lens that the projector comes with. When you start pulling pulling projectors apart you can run into all kinds of problems, with the wee ST180, I would leave well alone, but that is up to you. I find the light output from the ST180 with those two items above used works well.

Be careful in the use of CRC contact cleaner, as its extremely flammable, any spark and "woof" Always let contact cleaner "fully" dry out before applying power. Even without contact cleaner, a good workout of the switches and volume control without the projector plugged into the mains, usually does the trick. One point about feeding your leader, is to make sure it has a slight upward curve. You can do this yourself by simply running it over a eg small diameter screwdriver shaft and forcing the bend of the leader into the shape you want, a slight curve, then thread it into the projector. With the film trimmed with the Elmo trimmer, and a, "only slight" upward curve of the leader you won't have any problems.

Anyway its all food for thought, but I will say the little ST180 is a nice little projector and was one of the last from Elmo.

[Graham Ritchie]

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[Philip Hamilton]

When changing out the bulb for this ELMO can you put in a Xempphot 150w instead of the 100W ?