Welcome to the new 8mm Forum!
The forum you are looking at is entirely new software. Because there was no good way to import all of the old archived data from the last 20 years on the old software, everyone will need to register for a new account to participate.
To access the original forums from 2003-2019 which are now a "read only" status, click on the "FORUM ARCHIVE" link above.
Please remember registering with your first and last REAL name is mandatory. This forum is for professionals and fake names are not permitted. To get to the registration page click here.
Once the registration has been approved, you will be able to login via the link in the upper right corner of this page.
Also, please remember while it is highly encouraged to upload an avatar image to your profile, is not a requirement. If you choose to upload an avatar image, please remember that it IS a requirement that the image must be a clear photo of your face.
Thank you!
Hello everyone. I managed to break one of the brushes of the DC motor driving the rear take up arm.... Was overly enthusiastic to try and clean the DC motor because every now and then the take up reel fails. I have already put on new belts.
Can anyone advise on where to buy these brushes or what type and sizes these have?
Patrick, the same thing happened to me a couple of weeks ago, the brush snapped in half like a piece of chalk, I did not realize just how fragile they are. According to Thomas no replacement brushes exist and you have to file down the closest size available brush.
Can be made from graphite, as used for spark erosion. This is able to pass an electrical voltage/current through it, and can be machined and filed. You can maybe reuse the connections, drill a small hole in one end and carefully superglue this wire back inside, and then check for continuity with a meter. Many moon's ago as an apprentice toolmaker i fixed my beetle dynamo in this way, it worked until i sold it............
My GS1200 is running on Beko washing machine brushes filed down to fit. The end curve has to be filed as well to.make the pattern. Yes you can solder the end TERMIATOR on as well.
we'll be back Elmo GS1200 owners
So I ordered brushes from German company. Size 3mm x 4mm x 8mm. Removed the spring and files off 2 mm so it became 3 x 4 x 6mm. Replaced the broken brush and put the DC motor, now clean, together with lots of care not to break anything again.
Amazing improvement as the rear reel now spins smoothly and with the power as intended when new. So also dared to do the same procedure to the front arm motor because that arm halted many times and the reel was slow or not moving.
This was also successful.
I guess the issue is that over time and with longer periods of non use the rotor coil build up a lot of dirt from the carbon brushes waste carbon that comes off due to wear. The conductivity between brush and rotor coil then really deteriorates and the motor either spins slow or even halts or starts slowly.
cleaning the dirt off the rotor coil with very very fine sanding paper and cleaning all the insides with the right contact cleaner does magic and restores the motor beautifully.
see this video with before and after situation. https://youtu.be/dNfmzj7M4qA
Be careful with how you put back the backside of the motor. The brushes need to be pushed aside a bit and you have to use for example a stiff but rather thin iron wire or something.
To compress the brushes against the springs when sliding the back cover on, I used a couple of cotton buds with the end cut off "plastic stem". It is tricky to do but with care it can be done.
Patrick, did you do this procedure with the motor still in place inside the projector, and did you remove the rotor at all during this procedure? The reason I ask is that I found that reinstalling the brush assembly on the rotor was just about impossible for me when the rotor was still in place inside the stator assembly. Much easier to do outside the motor where you have full access to the brush assembly, but then when you try to reinstall the rotor/brush assembly back into the stator, the very powerful magnets suddenly pull everything into the casing, and that was when one of my brushes snapped off. Either way, I cannot imagine doing any of this with the motors still in place in the projector.
I did do it with the motor still in place and the rotor in the motor. Pulled out the rotor a bit which was possible say 3 mm or so but that made a difference. And then I did like Graham suggests: I used a piece of thick metal wire instead of his cotton bud because the wire was a bit thinner and gave me just enough space to work. And you need very good lighting and reading glasses to see what you are doing. For lighting I use my iPhone on a desk tripod. And light it from above.
In case you order those brushes: I used a soldering iron to get the spring a bit more loose from it's square plate. Then I was able to use a Stanley knife to cut loose the copper wire from that square plate. Be careful: the copper wire is júst long enough to solder it into the back of the motor. And like said: i filed off 2 mm to get it to the exact proper fit in terms of its length. It works great now!
Hello All,
I have a Elmo GS1200 version 1 . Had the same problem with the take up reel . I too attempted cleaning the motor but in the process left with a broken brush.
Thank you Patrick for the link , I have ordered the same brush and waiting for the same.
I will be careful this time to use a thin firm metal to push the brushes back while reinstalling the back plate of the motor. Could you please provide some details how to remove the old brush n fix the new with the spring in the brush slot .
Thanks in advance
Hello at all!
I read all this about changing the Brushes of the take up and rewind Motors on a GS 1200. And I saw the Video of Graham how difficult it is to move the backplate of the Motor back into the right Position after cleaning.
The easiest Way to disassemble this Motor is to take him out of the Machine with the Gearbox. Then unscrewed the Gearbox and the little Geat on the Motor Shaft. Bevore you must unsolder the two wires red and blue to get the Motor out of the Maschine.
Now unscrew the two long Screws wich are holding the little Motor together.
Now you gan easy drop the back Plate with the Rotor out of the Housing. With a very thin Needle you can push the two Brushes far away from the Coil Rotor. If you have pushed them far enough back, they would stay in this Position and don´t come back. Now you can take out the Rotor.
After cleaning drop in the Rotor and snap the Brushes back into their woking Position. At last you can drop the Rotor with the back Plate back into the Housing. No angry, The Brushes can´t slip from the Rotor. After this you can assemble everything back into the Machine.
It is more Work, but it is the easier and safer Way.
Comment