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Eumig Mark S Motor Mount Fix and On/Off Main Switch Problem reinstalling

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  • Eumig Mark S Motor Mount Fix and On/Off Main Switch Problem reinstalling

    I was so proud of myself (after reading the wonderful tips in this forum) to actually install new motor mounts in my Eumig S 712 projector. Trying to get access to the front mount was extremely challenging (but successful) and resulted in having to remove the front main power knob.

    Now the problem is that I can't seem to re-install the knob mechanism. The plastic control piece over which the actual knob fits, will not fully push into place and allow me to secure it with the lock nut that was on originally. Since I didn't pay enough attention when I pulled it off, I am assuming that I need to somehow hold back the spring-loaded mechanisms on both sides of the plastic wheel to slide it into place. The problem is a mysterious "finger" of plastic that "wobbles" around in the area that the plastic wheel needs to fully slide in. I actually went out and purchased a repair manual but unfortunately the manual only covered the amplifier components.

    Since pictures tell a thousand words, I've attached some pix to illustrate the issue.

    What am I missing here?

    Thanks for any responses
    Attached Files

  • #2
    First of all the back motor mount can not be installed from the front of the machine and the control knob section does not even need to be accessed to install the back motor mount. If you did install it from the front you will need to remove it and reinstall it from the back of the machine.

    The small plastic rod you are talking about is a piece of nylon that rides on the nylon control cam that you removed and controls the microswitch that turns the lamp on and off when the control knob is switched to projection.

    The plastic piece must be moved to the left a bit when reinstalling the nylon cam and it will find its proper place and ride the cam as intended.


    • #3
      When I changed the mounts on my Eumig mk s,original standard 8 model,I removed the motor to change the mount behind it.
      This wasnt too difficult,but adjusting the motor position, when I put it all back was.


      • #4
        Looking closely at your photo it does look like the motor mount has been installed correctly. But what confuses me is why you disassembled the control cam on the front of the machine to change the rear motor mount?


        • #5
          Joseph - thanks for your tip on the small piece of nylon - exactly what I was looking for.

          As to why I removed the front . . . As I tried to follow directions in various posts and looked at pictures posted, I was having trouble determining how to actually pull out the motor without disturbing any other components that I didn't feel comfortable removing.

          I removed the control cam to see if I could access it more easily - NOT!

          In the end I figured it out and was able to install the mounts correctly.

          For others who might be in the same position as I was: do NOT remove the plastic control cam knob mechanism. Once you remove the lock nut and pull it out, it releases the spring-loaded gears behind it and is very difficult to put back in correctly.


          • #6
            Glad to hear you got things put back in order! Always a good thing when a Eumig is running smoothly again.

            And my personal opinion on the Eumig Mark S standard 8mm projector is that it is one of the finest standard 8 sound machines ever built!​​​​


            • #7
              Joseph - the only thing still holding me up is that the heavy metal round disk in the rear of the projector does not spin up at all when power is applied. I removed it temporarily when I changed the motor mounts, but after reinstalling, it does not spin up.
              Should this wheel be tightened up with the top screw while firmly positioned against the case with the shaft that holds it pushed in from the front of the projector?
              Attached Files


              • #8
                That is the flywheel which is attached to the sound drum. It only revolves when a film is passing over the sound drum, i.e., it is not motor driven.


                • #9
                  Tom in 1973 my 807D developed a fault after only 12 months and with a huge price tag of £107 for this young man/boy and I returned it with my Dad to London. The engineer looked at it as did we with me goggle eyed as he said its the spring thing again. A very long time ago now but from what I remember the wrong spring was fitted or produced and quickly corrected. We were presented with a new machine a couple of weeks later which I still have and tribute to the service of Eumig.
                  It's still working today and looking like new as a dearly loved machine from my youth.

                  I decided to remove the flywheel to gain full cleaning access to the capstan MISTAKE. Eumig put a few drops of solder to hold it in place even tho I removed the spring clip retainer to slip it off the shaft. OK I was only a teenager but I learned a great deal about the working of Eumig.


                  • #10
                    In 1973 it would have been Johnsons of Hendon that did the work. I believe they didn't become Eumig UK for many years after that. When they were at a film show I told them my lamp base had burnt out and a few of the diablo rollers had gone missing from my Mk 710D. They took my name and address and soon after the parts arrived in the post, free of charge. Great aftercare.


                    • #11
                      Tom, as others have said, the big metal wheel is the flywheel. The flywheel on a Mark S standard 8mm machine does not rotate unless the sound amplifier is turned on with film loaded. The Mark S is ingenious in design as only when the sound amplifier is switched on does the pinch roller and the pressure pad for the sound head move into position for playing sound film, which then starts the flywheel rotating. When the amplifier is switched off those two items move back out of the way and are no longer in the film path actually reconfiguring the projector back into a silent machine....and it's all done automatically by just turning the on/off volume control knob.

                      But do check your flywheel to make sure it spins freely and is not binding. With the machine unplugged and the back cover removed, give the flyweel a good spin by hand. It should take the flywheel well over a minute and a half to stop on its own...if so you're good to go!
                      Last edited by Joseph Banfield; June 03, 2021, 02:41 PM.


                      • #12
                        Thanks to all for the tips and info. Final step is to get the motor properly aligned.