Kodascope Eight, Model 50 antique projector, how to bring it back to life.

[James Culbertson]

Hi. I found a Kodascope 8, model 50 projector at a flea market recently (in Japan) and I want to see if I can bring it back to life. I've got several old 8mm projectors, but nothing this old (1936-40?). I do have some knowledge about electronic repairs...but at a basic level. So I have a few questions that I'm hoping someone could give me some advice about.
1. From what little research I have done, I don't think you can buy new lamps. Antique ones only..if you can find them. Originally it had a P28 base (huge) 110-130 volt 300 watts Phillips 6131C/05 lamp. There wasn't a lamp in the projector, but I do have another similar lamp with the same, huge bayonet base(sylvania KP-M 100v, 200w). I'm guessing if I put in this lamp...it will just burn a little less bright due to the difference is wattage (300 down to 200)? think I can use it?
2.This projector is 100-125 volts (voltage in Japan is 100).I don't think the projector has been plugged in/turned on in decades. I'm a bit nervous to plug it in the wall and turn it on. Lots of dust inside and I worry about fire. Don't want to burn up the motor. So after blowing out the dust, should I just plug it in, flip the switch and hope for the best?
Any advice would help. Thanks!

[Ed Gordon]

From the archives: https://8mmforum.film-tech.com/cgi-b...10909;go=older

[James Culbertson]

Thanks for the link. I did check that out before I posted. That old post did answer a few questions about threading the machine, but it didn't mention the questions I had above.

[Maurice Leakey]

James
I was worried that the lamp house might contain asbestos, but having found the video (attached) there does does not seem to be any.
Thrift Store Score: Kodak Kodascope Eight Model 50 1930's 8mm Film Projector - YouTube

I suggest you give it a good clean (in and out) and try an initial run without the lamp. If it runs OK you could try your alternative lower wattage lamp.
As you say the correct lamp would appear to be almost impossible to locate, and even you do the price will be extortionate. See attached ad for a 200watt lamp.
GE A1-13 110v 200w P28s Cap Black Top Projector Bulb. Ansi Codes CVS CVX - Easy Light Bulbs (easy-lightbulbs.com)

[Paul Adsett]

James, the first thing you need to do is apply one drop of machine oil at all the places marked by a red dot on the projector. Look closely around, there are a bunch of them, I counted 13.
Next plug the machine into a power strip with a light on it. Before switching on the power strip go ahead and switch the projector to ON. Then, and only then, switch on the power strip. The projector motor should start running immediately and the light should come on. You may have to spin the big pulley by hand to give the mechanism a kick to get up to speed. The wiring on these machines is now almost 85 years old- so be very careful, touch the machine very quickl with one finger to test for a 'live' machine. If it works, go ahead and install a ground wire to a 3-prong plug and GFI socket.

I just ran a film on my own Kodascope 8-50. It is a great little machine, very solidly built, and it projects a very steady picture. Not sure what the lens aperture is, but the barrel is so smal in diameter, and the lens so long, that the f# must be 2.8 or 5.6! Anyway, the picture for a 300 watt lamp is pretty dim, nowhere near later standard 8 machines like the Bolex 18-5, which totally outclasses this little Kodak. But this was the state of the art in 1936 and for what it was intended to do at that time it did very well. And mine still looks and runs like a brand new machine.

And Maurice is correct - there is no deadly asbestos in this machine (unlike the 9,5mm Pathescope 200B of the same period).

[James Culbertson]

Thanks Paul and Maurice. Some really great advice. You are right Paul, I never noticed the red dots before. Only found 3-4 so far but I'll keep looking.

[Maurice Leakey]

James
I looked at some photos and here are the oiling points I saw, but Paul may be able to list more.

Top sprocket
Bottom sprocket
Top spindle
Bottom spindle
Three below the lens
Front panel
Rear main pulley
Tilt knob

Use light oil such as that sold for sewing machines.

[Paul Adsett]

One thing I forgot James - its a good idea to turn the motor speed knob clockwise about 1/4 turn before powering up. That is because the motor has low starting torque, and if the knob is set fully anti- clockwise the motor may sit in a stalled condition, which is really bad for the motor. Also give that big pulley a 'kick' by hand if things do not start moving right away.
To clean the gate you need to first retract the claw by rotating the knob below the lens, you will be able to see the claw moving in and out - move it to the fully retracted position (closest to the rear of the lens). Then you can pullout the rear part of the gate assembly (closest to the lamp housing) by pushing it back towards the lamp house while pulling it out.
Then you can clean and polish both the front and rear gate plates to eliminate film scratches from dirt in these araes. Do this before every running of film.

To Maurice's list of oiling points - here's what I have found:

FRONT SIDE
Top reel spindle - oil hole, no red dot
Bottom reel spindle (oil hole, no red dot)
Top Sprocket shaft (tiny hole with red dot)
Botom sprocket shaft (tiny hole with red dot)
Claw knob - you have to unscrew the lens to see the hole and red dot)
Oiling tube extending out from just below back end of lens clamp
Oiling tube extending out from just below front end of lens clamp
Oiling point on end of rotating shaft that has a screwdriver slot in it , just below front of lens

BACK SIDE
Back end of top sprocket shaft (red dot)
hole above top small pulley (red dot)
The shaft of the small bottom pulley where it enters the back plate (red dot)
hole on big pulley shaft (red dot)
Also apply to area where big pulley shaft goes into the rear plate ( red dot about 1 ins above this location)
Hole right next to big hole at the edge adjoining the lamp house assembly (red dot)

FRONT NARROW face OF PROJECTOR ( FACING FRONT OF LENS)
Main shaft oiling point (red dot)

LEVELLING SCREW
Just a wipe of grease

So there you have it, a total of 15 oiling points, and one grease point - more than my Honda Accord!

[James Culbertson]

I can't thank you guys enough for your help. Some very solid answers for newbie playing around with an old machine. This is exactly the kind of help I was hoping to get. Took your advice Paul and set up a current limiter and bingo, it does run. The motor is having a tough time pulling the main gear above it which maybe an oil issue that you guys mentioned above. Hopefully I wont have to open it up any further to get the gears/pulleys to move a bit smoother. Again, THANKS!

[Maurice Leakey]

Thanks to Paul who added six lubrication points to my previously mentioned ten. (I couldn't see a clear picture of back panel).