Eumig Mark S 710d speed control unresponsive

[Stuart Budd]

Hello, as per title. New to me S 710d with 18 24 switch that's none functioning at the low position and needs a bit of assistance in the up position. Any thoughts? At work at the min but thought I'd pose this question on my break. I've put no film throught it yet and speed switched only when the control knob is virtical, off with fans going.

[Edit] just read about the drive disks needing a bit of belt dressing or de-smoothing. I'll give those ago.

[Maurice Leakey]

Stuart

Your projector could now be 49 years old and if it has been not used for some time it is just possible that the motor needs to run (unconnected) until it warms up.

Then, the control should be turned to forward and the whole mech might then take a further ten minutes or so to get going.

And, of course, the black drive disks may need a little roughening up.

Unfortunately, the Eumig drive system is not one of the best ideas in the world.

[Stuart Budd]

Thanks for the reply Maurice.

After a little reading and a video or two on Youtube I set about it with a screwdriver

I wish I had left it until your reply as it would have been ideal to see if it would wake up. The seller had tested it and I did give it a small warm up. But like you say. May have needed more.


fingers crossed.

[Brian Fretwell]

Sometimes (mainly when it is cold) my 710D and 810D projectors start slowly. I think it may be old lubrication thickening and getting more liquid when the machine warms up. They are perfectly OK in summer months.

[Stuart Budd]

Good to know Brian. Projectors need to be used. The image above is as far as I'm going on this occssion as want to run film through it. I'll leave the drive shaft until I've seen film succesfully ran through. The claw and shutter are probably a bit technical! I'll have it back together over the weekend. Just got Family Plot on a 400ft reel to watch. Looking forwad to that.

[Lee Mannering]

One thing with Eumig machine the rubber coated drives wheel's can be repaired in 5 minutes with belt dressing.

Spray it on a lint free cloth and rub on both drives. Leave it overnight. All done

Oh and you need never buy a drive belt :-)

[Joseph Banfield]

Yea, my thoughts as to your problem seems pretty clear from your photo. You have disintegrated motor mounts...that's what all the yellow crumbly stuff is in your photo. It looks like someone has tried some quick fix to the front motor mount. This more than anything is going to give you drive issues. You can buy brand new motor mounts at Van-eck that they 3D print and are not brittle. Until you replace those you're not likely to get the machine running reliably.

[Stuart Budd]

Hi Joseph, luckily those bits are one of the feet. However, in transport the transport screws were not in transport mode. So I guess it would have had a bump or two. Lee, I've gone with silicone grease.

[Stuart Budd]

As an update. Further down the rabbit hole. Got back from work last night and thought far too dirty to put back like that and a trapped piece of film, pic 1, so carried on with the screw driver. Circlips are a pain, any advice there would be helpful. Blew off all the big debris, now just hand cleaning and assembly (easy peasy ). Glad it's cleaner though as wouldn't have wanted to put a film through it. Claw, shutter assembly left in situ and just compressed air cleaned.
First two picks before. Second after and the begining as assembly! No rush .
Good thing is, managed to separeate the electronic from the mechanics.
Don't think I'll get another sound projector. The P8's are fine and my old Ricoh for Super8 (well both).

[Joseph Banfield]

To answer your question: For easy removal circlips require a special tool. They look like a pair of pliers with points at the ends. You insert the points into the end of a circlip and squeeze, which spreads the clip slightly and simply pull the pliers toward you and the clip comes off.

[Stuart Budd]

Thanks Joseph. Any ideas on where to get one for the tiny clips. All I can find are tools for larger clips.

[Maurice Leakey]

Stuart
On Amazon, a set.
Not too sure of their size.
us pro 1822 4 Piece 9" NI-FE Finish Circlip Plier Set in Zip Case : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

[Stuart Budd]

Thanks for the link. Think too wide at the tips. Popping up B&Q now to have a look see. When I know the sizes I'll let you know. I'll also get some measurments off the shafts and cone to think of it, the distance between disks. Odd shifts this week so probably Sunday before I can work on it propper.

[Joseph Banfield]

No, I would have no idea where to get them as my Dad gave me my set of circlip tools many years ago.

[Stuart Budd]

Distance between drive disks is 20.9mm with an analogue vern.
Circlips are actually mostly friction fit. For most there is no grove they snap into. They're just tight. I did sruggle the first night trying to get them off. Now I know they're tight friction I just walk them off with a screwdriver. There are the odd few circlips that snap into a groove. I have a circlip set comming that start at 3mm. I'll see what fits. The, I think it's the emultion, brown residue seems to work it's way around the machine. B&Q was a fail for both circlip tools of a suitable size and the clips themselves. Circlips ordered online. Tools bought locally. If you know what you're doing, it's a real easy machine to work on. I'd love to know the assembly line order these were built in or if one person buit the complete unit. Just finished removing the shutter subassembly. Three screws and an actual circlip with groove gear shaft to undo and the whole shutter and shaft subassembly can be removed. As the shaft has a fixed place to go through to the loadet gear and the screw holes are round not slotted. Should all go back without adjustment.
Tired and poor light along with poor sight means I'll leave it now till tomorrow.

Image of shutter subassembly close up of claw and circlip that retains shaft housing (brass tube shown) to external film upper most guide by lens. 9.4mm internal dia external circlip.