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An update on the 710 disk drive. Platenclene has worked for me. 24fps @ 50Hz starts forward and backward without issue. Possibly on the slow side and possibly needing adjustment.
Took the Super8 and Regular8 gates apart. I thought the Super8 gate had snapped it's toung. Apparently not. It's the Standard8 vs Super8 audio separation path. Lost one of the spring wires in the process. Know the length and approximate guage. The Super8 gate is back together and tested Jungle Animals and James Stewart The Reluctant Rebel. Must have blinked, as missed the Rebel bit.
Pleased with the 710 though. Hasn't chewed a film yet
Well Stuart, one nice option for twin track machines, and the one I use most, is adding a foreign language track to the balance stripe. Because I reside in France this gives me the option of instantly changing the language depending on my audience.
My Amazon Prime ends today so yesterday ordered some Platernclean which should arrive today. That is used for printer feeds. I saw a video regarding Eumig and rubber disk rejuvenating. Belt dressing was on the cards but chose Platerclean on advice from tech. It also comes in a bottle or pump spray. It may take a day or two but will let you know. The video on YouTube was successful. The motor mounts are sound. I'm now looking into twin track audio projectors. Just so to get a "do all" projector. Not sure what I'm actually after as don't know what the tracks hold. Main and sub track. Anyway, that's for another day and thread. Hopefully Platernclean will solve the drive issue.
As soon as you get some type of belt dressing on those rubber drive discs the machine will take off like a rocket in both directions at both 18 and 24fps. Assuming of course that the motor is perfectly centered and the motor mounts are not crumbly and with no dodgy repairs to them.
Thanks Maurice. To be fair, when I bought this I didn't let it run and "warm up" for hours I just went at it with a screwdriver almost straight out the box. Had I let it run for sometime, from the advice I've now read, there would have been a good chance it would have been OK.
24fps is/was quite hard to get going. In test 18fps (50 cycle setting) was easier to get going. 24 not so much. It's closer to the inner part of the disk. This may be a reason. Easier to get a disk moving from the edge than the center.
The Youtube video shows quite a low (slow) voice. But this is my second viewing. The first at 18fps as 24 just wouldn't get going. Watching through and it seems as if the speed is gradually improving!
All good fun.
It's all back together and thought I'd watch a bit of Westworld at 18fps! A Red Theater Production . Speed control isn't correct so I will be getting some belt stuff. I'll keep you updated on proceeding.
I should be asleep now A little bit each day. Switch is done (I think). Lifting the audio mechanisum by default and lowering only in forward projection. So as Brian mentioned. Forward Projection only. Haven't put the audio micro switch back yet or adjusted motor tilt. Wasn't going to touch it till the weekend but it beckoned me over.
A few more parts to put back and a check over should do the trick.
Brian, yes, looks like the audio side has a sliding plate that pivots in a manner to lift head and rubber wheel. That plate is activated mechanically with the rotor switch. The adjustable arm to the switch is seen passing through the case towards the switch.
Joseph, glad you mention the momentum held after speed change in the flywheel. Should have a "Do not use Willy Nilly" sign or lock.
I'll print off a sign
Might get it running tonight!
On reverse projection the rubber pinch roller nor the pressure pads are engaged. They remain in the retracted position and the flywheel will continue to spin until it runs out of energy eventually.
But if when you have started a film and realize that you forgot to lower the speed from 24 to 18 fps you need to wait a few minutes after lowering the speed. If you don't wait the fast spinning flywheel will cause the film to bunch up just before the rear sprocket for a few seconds unti the speed of the flywheel settles into the slower 18fps speed. This is mentioned in the instruction manual but the potential consequences to the film are not!
I thin it is the rubber wheel that presses the film against the flywheel shaft that moves. Possibly only in the lamp on position (forwards) of the switch.
Monday update. Waiting on my circlip set to arrive to replace one that broke on dissassembly . Getting there though. Main switch should be fun! I've hand wound a test film through the track. You learn a bit when you do things manually. Auto feed needs to be pressed untill the film reaches the last power wheel. Idealy the takeup spool. The audio has no power drive only the fly wheel which gets it's power from the film advancing. The main switch I guess will lift the drive wheel on stop and between forward and reverse to prevent friction burns. That's a guess. Not sure how the flywheel handles direction change. I understand sticking points if not fed correctly. That's it for this evening.
Distance between drive disks is 20.9mm with an analogue vern.
Circlips are actually mostly friction fit. For most there is no grove they snap into. They're just tight. I did sruggle the first night trying to get them off. Now I know they're tight friction I just walk them off with a screwdriver. There are the odd few circlips that snap into a groove. I have a circlip set comming that start at 3mm. I'll see what fits. The, I think it's the emultion, brown residue seems to work it's way around the machine. B&Q was a fail for both circlip tools of a suitable size and the clips themselves. Circlips ordered online. Tools bought locally. If you know what you're doing, it's a real easy machine to work on. I'd love to know the assembly line order these were built in or if one person buit the complete unit. Just finished removing the shutter subassembly. Three screws and an actual circlip with groove gear shaft to undo and the whole shutter and shaft subassembly can be removed. As the shaft has a fixed place to go through to the loadet gear and the screw holes are round not slotted. Should all go back without adjustment.
Tired and poor light along with poor sight means I'll leave it now till tomorrow.
Image of shutter subassembly close up of claw and circlip that retains shaft housing (brass tube shown) to external film upper most guide by lens. 9.4mm internal dia external circlip.
Thanks for the link. Think too wide at the tips. Popping up B&Q now to have a look see. When I know the sizes I'll let you know. I'll also get some measurments off the shafts and cone to think of it, the distance between disks. Odd shifts this week so probably Sunday before I can work on it propper.
A little bit each day. Switch is done (I think). Lifting the audio mechanisum by default and lowering only in forward projection. So as Brian mentioned. Forward Projection only. Haven't put the audio micro switch back yet or adjusted motor tilt. Wasn't going to touch it till the weekend but it beckoned me over.
. Getting there though. Main switch should be fun! I've hand wound a test film through the track. You learn a bit when you do things manually. Auto feed needs to be pressed untill the film reaches the last power wheel. Idealy the takeup spool. The audio has no power drive only the fly wheel which gets it's power from the film advancing. The main switch I guess will lift the drive wheel on stop and between forward and reverse to prevent friction burns. That's a guess. Not sure how the flywheel handles direction change. I understand sticking points if not fed correctly. That's it for this evening.
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