The Index of Technical Topics to the rescue.

[Stuart Budd]

Now the prowd ower of a Elmo GS 1200.
First run couldn't get rid of flicker. The loop lever didn't help. Reverse was ok. Turns out the Autofeed doesn't release so no real room for the top loop. Back off and manually twiddle to release the solenoid lock.
Looks like I too have the Autofeed release problem.
Umm. Solenoid requires power to draw bar in for release of Autofeed green block. From reading the old forum. Two micro switches. Push down green autofeed block engages first micro switch. This must allow power in the circuit. The second micro switch by an exit roller once film engages it allows power to then flow to the solenoid, drawing in the bar, releasing the green autofeed block, cutting power to the solenoid circuit which allows the locking bar to act under spring load to lock the autofeed block on next use. The autofeed block is now in play mode which gives ample space for the top loop and flicker free playback.
I just couldn't spot the second micro switch!
Oh! Also came with the 1.0 lens. Dirty so the old forum again to the rescue. The focus helix is a bit course.
First impression of the GS1200, a bit complicated and overboard for my requirements. A system orientated tool.
Back in it's box whilst I learn the location of the micro switch and sort the audio on the Noris.
Back to the Index of Technical Topics.

[Clive Casey]

Hi Stuart, Good luck with GS1200, I have 2 of them. I have problems with the sound on one of mine, when I power it up the sound crackles like hell, sometimes you can stop it by flipping the switches. I have pulled it apart and cleaned all the contacts and it seems to be ok for a while and then all of a sudden off it goes again. I love the projector but it does come with problems.
I am looking at putting a 250w lamp or even HID in one of them, I am not happy with the yellowish light I get on screen, time will tell what I do.

Regards, Clive

[Lee Mannering]

Truly love seeing your enthusiasm Stuart and yep the old 8mm forum thankfully archived to help others in the years to come. A great historical document of the small formats.

Some years back I stripped down my Elmo F1 lenses to clean them not really for the faint hearted but possible. Details will be on the old forum still I am sure happy days

[Paul Adsett]

Clive, if you are using the 200w EJL lamp in your GS1200 they are very dim in comparison with the original ESC lamp. The ESC lamps are no longer available so unless you have a stockpile of ESC lamps you should certainly consider a conversion to the 250W ELC lamp which will require an external 24v power supply, bypassing the projectors transformer, or alternatively go really bright with the HID conversion.
I am still on the fence about HID for my particular home cinema situation so in the meantime I have done the 250W ELC conversion, which is what Graham and Thomas have done. I have found it to be MUCH brighter than the 200w ELJ, and noticeably brighter and more uniform than the original 200w ESC. I consider it well worth doing.

[Clive Casey]

Hi Paul, Thanks for your input. I am in the process of trying a 250w lamp in one of my GS1200, one thing that I have noticed that one of my 1200 seems brighter than the other. The brighter projector is a 110v version but it still has the 24v 200w lamp. On looking into this I swopped the lens round and the 110v did seem brighter. Both lens are the f1.0, so maybe the next step if to try and open the lens for a clean.

Regards, Clive

[Paul Adsett]

Both lens are the f1.0, so maybe the next step if to try and open the lens for a clean.

Clive, if you find a good procedure for that, please post.

[Lee Mannering]

Stu. One of the problems with just about all 8mm projectors is the dreaded micro switches , particularly with the more costly models.
Look left on the gs1200 behind the green exit film guide and if you are lucky it will be the micro switch behind the green guide thats faulty. Change it out and normally will resume.

If you have a GS1200 you will need to study up but thankfully due to those who have gone before a wealth of help is on the old 8mm forum and how grateful are we all.

Other forums draw on this of course but it started here and thank you so much for that.

[Douglas Meltzer]

As Lee said, the Tech Topics Index only exists because of the willingness of all those who posted to share their knowledge and insight with their fellow film enthusiasts. I'm very grateful that we have this incredibly useful resource.

If you come across a tech topic that isn't in the index but should be, please use this link to mention it so that I can make the addition.

Stuart, please keep us updated on your progress with the GS!

[Stuart Budd]

Morning Lee and Douglas, thank you for your support. I have good news. Basic maintenance on the microswitch with contact spray has brought life to the autofeed circuit. Could not find the release microswitch as looking down by the audio head! That's the area on the Noris where the mechanical release is. Thanks Lee. The microswitch is as you say, hidden behind the VU meter panel. The stainless exit wheel shrouded by the corner of the panel. A toothpick and light pressure and you'll hear it clicking.
The film only acts on this switch when caught by the takeup spool and pressure is applied. The film alone passing over the microswitch wheel does nothing!
This GS does need a good going over and I will keep you updated on my trials.
Must say, pleased it was an easy fix as the alternatives would have been...
A quick video:

Better also mention the film enterance light. I don't think that worked until the autofeed started working. Not sure if linked.