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Keystone K100 assembly

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  • Keystone K100 assembly

    Good Day All
    I'm a new member and this is my first post so here's a bit about me and why I'm here. I have a fairly solid technical/mechanical background and have been working in Telecom since mid-1980's as well working on cars as a hobby. When my grandmother passed away early 2000’s, I was allowed to take her 1950's Phillips "Hi Fi" radio/record player, in mint condition. My grandparents took great care of all their stuff. I found inside the record storage compartment, 6 reels of 400 ft 8mm family home movies dating back to 1950’s that I haven’t seen since the late 1990s. A couple of years ago I converted the 8mm all to video via a Wolverine Pro. As a newbie I was happy with the performance, it worked as designed. My family was very grateful because we all have copies now. Recently I was looking to convert some other films (yard sale finds) and notice that there's not been a Wolverine firmware update in years. All in all the Wolverine does a pretty decent job but what I have since found is the machine is lacking (for me) any real control over front end settings like focus, film speed or lighting and isn't flexible for encoding or saving file types.
    So, I want to build myself a Telecine. I was given an old Keystone K100 projector that's literally in nuts and bolts see pics attached. I’ve tested the switch, light bulb and motor and all are in working condition and there's no evidence of burnt broken parts. I suspect it was being restored/cleaned and for whatever reason abandoned but all the parts seem to be here. What I don't have is a service manual or any reference photos of what goes where. Before I start planning my Telecine I'd like to know if this donor is enact enough parts wise to be a solid start. Ill replace the bulb with LEDs and the AC motor with an adjustable stepper but I may keep most of the mechanism/sprockets around the film advance section. I'll also substitute the lens for a digital microscope. I hope to achieve a true frame by frame digital copy of the 8mm film with all the flexibly and controls lacking in my Wolverine.
    My question/ask is, does anyone have a copy of the service manual for the K100 or be able to take various multiple hi res pics of an assembled K100 guts illustrating how everything is connected?
    As a side note, on the switch plate (pics attached) there is a sticker over the original "Still and Reverse" swapping the settings, it seems like it was done from the factory or maybe a recall. Has anyone seen anything like that before? It seems like a sloppy way to fix a production issue or is that common in that era?

  • #2
    First thing first, is it still mechanically complete?
    Or at the very least you'll need the complete film transport section - the "heart" of the machine.

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    • #4
      For the said task it's therefore lo longer necessary to have the projector 100%complete&intact as it was originally was, which is indeed a relief.

      The "priority list" of components need from most to least important (general list, not model-specific) for the purpose.
      1. The pull-down mechanics and the film gate assembly. You'll absolutely need the mech to advance the film to the exact position, one frame at a time. This is the must!
      2. The upper & lower drive sprocket. If these somehow went poof (cracked/ripped gear for example) you're still able to live with that, providing you can scan a relative short section of film, 50ft maybe, at a time.
      3. The feed & takeup reel arm & reel drive - you can even let the scanned film dumped down into a cardboard box and wind it back later.
      4. The original motor & its drive train. It's intended to run at 16-24 fps, not 2-5 fps for film scanning. In my setup I replaced its original drive motor with low-speed geared DC motor, works perfectly. Also disregard its fwd/rev/still mech. - absolutely no need and useless by now.
      5. The original optics - totally useless for the task. Although I kept unused parts in my case for the heck of it, but you may safely throw it away.

      YMMV of course, but hope you may find this guideline somewhat useful then.

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