Mark S 709

[Jim Patton]

Alright, figured out the correct set screws but ended up shimming the shutter, using the plastic link, with various diameter screws until I found one that worked. It allowed for a bit more fine control as 1 mm meant the difference between the claw arm moving smoothly or snagging something. It looked like the plastic guide for the claw depth has simply worn down.

[Jim Patton]

While digging around, the motor mounts are clearly deteriorated and the motor is sliding around. As long as I keep the motor in the proper spot by hand, the projector has no issue running in forward or reverse.

I'll have to track down a set or print them if I can find a stl or dimensions to model them from.

Rubber cleaner will be in next week.

Once I get the motor mounts I'll have to see what I can do about the sound.

[Maurice Leakey]

Jim
Van Eck Video in The Netherlands can supply a set of two motor mounts.
Eumig Mark, 700 – 800 series – motor mounts (2 pcs) (PP-0138) – Van Eck Video Services (van-eck.net)

[Jim Patton]

I just finished these. Although I’m going to redo them, as they need to be about 0.5mm taller to fully fit the copper piece.

[Joseph Banfield]

Well, it seems you've made progress and those mounts look nice too.

Regarding your sound amp you must be sure all three vacuum tubes are present and seated properly. Note: the third vacuum tube is hidden at the bottom of the amp behind a black metalic panel that slides straight down after removing its screw. Start by pulling each tube and clean the pins on each one well and reseat and pull each tube several times to clean the sockets.

You will need to clean each one of the spring brass contact arms that supply power to the amp until they're clean. Clean the contacts on the muting switch (lower left hand side of amp that stick out from the back).

You will need some contact cleaner to clean the recording switch (guaranteed to be oxidized and not working) and the superimposing switch (the gray button by the carrying handle). After spraying them you will need to work them back and forth to get them clean.

Clean the pins on both of the plugs from the magnetic head and seat and reseat both plugs several times.

Finally, be sure that when you reinstall the amp that the fiber piece that is controlled by the recording switch is indeed positoned in its cutout and the recording switch pushes and pulls this fiber piece. It tends to wander and you don't want it in the recording position by accident when you start the machine!!!

I've never run across a Eumig with a bad vacuum tube amp personally. I've never even had to change a single tube to date and I have, and use regularly, three of those machines!!!

[David Roberts]

Very usefull info on the valve amps Joseph. I have a 709 and the original mk S st.8, that has a fault on the sound.I will follow your procedure on the amp and see if it sorts things out.

[Maurice Leakey]

Very good advice regarding valve pins and their sockets.

Some years ago I bought a 16mm Ampro New Educational single case model which had no sound. The fault was traced to a valve holder. Its sockets were no longer gripping the valve pins.

A new socket was installed and it worked great. Still does.

The eBay seller told me later that he had bought it to show silent films and therefore the sound system was not needed. He kindly gave me a decent part refund.

[Joseph Banfield]

David, pay close attention to the muting switch I mentioned. Sometimes when the amp is reinstalled the muting switch can be bent in such a way from hitting on the flywheel or the power transformer that it no longer can be triggered and always remains in the muted position. Then the amp would behave like it is dead. Fortunately there is just enough space at the front of the machine with the both front covers removed and with the aid of a flashlight to make sure that switch is opening when switched to play with the sound amp turned on. If the switch is not opening you may have to disassemble and carefully straighten the leaf switches. And the same advice applies if it always stays open, which will produce a high pitched buzz in the speaker when the machine is stopped if the switch stays open and fails to mute, but of course it will operate normally in that condition once it is switched to play.

[David Roberts]

Thankyou Joseph.

[Jim Patton]

Progress!

Or at least a few steps forward and perhaps one back. I was having issues with forward playback where it would stall/lock up intermittently, but no problem playing in reverse. Digging around in the area where the first sprocket sits I managed to pull out a small piece of old film, basically two frames bent over.

I finally had some time to dig into the amp and clean it and there is now sound.

[Jim Patton]

The only issue now is an intermittent loss of frame stability. I'm not sure if the claw isn't making contact or the film is moving out of position. Is there anything I can adjust in the film gates? Will have to open things up again and see.

If I put my finger down on the automatic threading key I can sometimes get the frame to stabilize.

[Brian Fretwell]

Have you checked that it isn't losing the top loop? That is the main cause of that problem often due to a damaged film (torn between sprocket holes) or bad splices.

[Joseph Banfield]

You obviously don't have enough claw penetration in the film. Shimming it as you've done is not enough as it's just taking up the slight bearing slack and causing unnecessary wear and forcing the motor to work harder than it needs to. You must remove your makeshift screw you're using as a shim (not safe and will eventually fly out of there at some point). There is a reason why that plastic piece that you've stuffed with a screw has long slots...it is so that the shutter can be set in any position on its shaft and still get full drive power from the motor without being put under any kind of pressure.

The only adjustment for claw penetration is to loosen the two set screws on the shutter and move it a hair closer to the film gate. You will probably have to do it several times. Only the position of the shutter on its shaft determines how deep the claw will penetrate into the film. There is no other adjustment for this on Eumig machines...the location of the shutter on its shaft is the only option...when located further away from the film gate there will be less penetration, or none at all, and when located closer to the gate there will be more penetration, or too much that causes the claw to strike the back of the film gate. It's your job to find that one and only sweet spot! Sorry, but there is no other adjustment on that mechanism to set the claw depth. When the depth of claw penetration is set correctly it should pass through the film sprocket hole completely with slightly less than 1 mm sticking out past the sprocket hole of the film when it's in the gate.

[Jim Patton]

I think that I finally got the claw pin where it was needed, and I've run two separate 200ft reels through with zero issue.

I took the shim out, but even with the shutter pushed as close as it would go towards the film gate the claw pin still wasn't engaging the film. To help, I made a set of gauges ranging from 0.5mm-2mm in 0.1mm increments. I ended up moving the shutter back roughly to where it started, loosening the bearings and worm gear and shifting everything forward 1.5mm, tightening everything, and then making sure things still ran smoothly. This now allowed for fine-tuning by moving the shutter, and I adjusted it to have the pin extend 0.8mm past the film gate.

Thank you for the help!

[Joseph Banfield]

I watched your video and the picture is now perfectly stable as it should be and the pulldown sounds nice and smooth too. Now you have a fully operational 709, including the sound. Enjoy!