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A bit of a preamble to a simple question. A few weeks ago I was planning to watch some movies on my Bolex 18-5L (Halogen lamp version). The bulb wouldn’t turn on so I assumed it burnt out. Ordered a new bulb. Fast-forward to today: I had a very difficult time removing the old bulb, and ended up having to pry it out with a screwdriver. The prongs on the bulb were severely corroded so that explains why the bulb was difficult to remove and didn’t light up. Also, it was not burnt out. Gave the bulb receptacle a blast of Deoxit for good measure. Now the new bulb is very loose in the socket and doesn’t go in all the way. I can only assume the socket has corroded and/or has been damaged so badly it needs to be replaced. See attached. I would imagine this is a fairly common connector. What is the name for it so I can buy a new one? I can solder so the fix should be easy. I just don’t know specifically what to look for.
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Last edited by Dave Bickford; June 14, 2023, 02:53 PM. -
Is this it? http://gyroscope.iwarp.com/bulb_sale...5Ladapter.html
I found that on the forum in this post: https://8mmforum.film-tech.com/cgi-b...c;f=1;t=009448
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I just need the ceramic part with the two wires that the bulb plugs into, not the complete assembly.Originally posted by Ed Gordon View PostComment
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Been there, done that same thing. If I may suggest something better: two small crocodile clips permanently connected to the lines and put on the lamp’s prongs. I am certain you will manage to isolate them up to the tips. No more annoyance.Comment
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That sounds like a recipe for disaster. I hope you’re being facetious.Originally posted by Simon Wyss View PostComment
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Yes the small point of contact for the cuurent that lamp uses would make very dodgy in my mind.Comment
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Dave this is the part you need. It's called a bi-pin socket!
https://www.superbrightleds.com/bi-p...xoC2-8QAvD_BwE
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Quite the contrary is the case, those bi-pin sockets, as you have just experienced, are far more trouble contact-wise. Believe me, the alligator clips to use another term, let all the current flow. Else, you don’t have to push on the lamp prongs.Comment
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Thanks for the info! Looking at the box, it seems I’d need something more like a GZ6.35 bi-pin. Not sure what that particular designation means, but I’m on the right track! And yes, despite the pictograph on the bulb box I did touch the bulb with my bare hands (when cold). I should know better. Bad projectionist! 😂Originally posted by Shane C. Collins View PostDave this is the part you need. It's called a bi-pin socket!
https://www.superbrightleds.com/bi-p...xoC2-8QAvD_BwE
Last edited by Dave Bickford; June 15, 2023, 03:40 PM.Comment
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6,35 (mm) is the metric dimension of the distance between the contact pins, a quarter inch.
You can remove the grease of your fingers from the lamp with a cotton tab or even a piece of toilet paper and some ethanol. When warm, the acids within the grease attack the coating and the glass.Comment
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The connector arrived today. The wire gauge is very small compared to the original. I don’t feel safe using this. The published limit is 250 volts/100 watts, but the 12v/75w bulb draws more “juice”, right? Or is my high school electronics math wrong? I really don’t know for sure a million years later… 😂Comment
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I don't know what they mean by that rating. I could mean the insulation is good for 250 volts and the base can stand the heat of a 100w lamp or that a 250v 100w lamp is the most it can take. The wire looks like it can take much more than the just under 0.5 amps a 250v 100w lamp would draw, it's just a pity they didn't give the current rating for the wires. I have a similar one I have installed in a 12v 100w Eumig but haven't used yet.
I would suggest fitting it and running for a few minutes and see if the wire after the join gets warmer than that before it, a sure indication that is under rated.Comment
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