Getting closer to being able to use the Ektar prime lens

[Todd Kitchen]

Got a Eumig Mark S 802 (super 8 single 8). It seems to be a very simple machine, but of course, both of the motor mounts had completely disintegrated.
Ordered replacements from the Netherlands. So I'll have to repair the projector before I can think about machining down the lens barrel.

I wish Super-8 projector design was better.
I'm currently restoring an old Filmosound amp but the projector it came with is so well made it makes virtually every Super-8 projector look like absolute junk. In fact, the quality of the B&H build makes a lot of other 16mm portable projectors look like junk. The only super-8 projector that comes close to pro build quality is the Fumeo and they are expensive and rare as hen's teeth.

I guess consumer gear is consumer gear. It's designed for ease of manufacturing, not ease of repair.

Luckily, the rest of the Eumig seems to be fine. It came in the original box with all the paperwork, etc. I think the material they used for those motor mounts was just a really inferior plastic. I've seen the same type of plastic used in some super-8 cameras. Someone once gave me a NOS Kodak Instamatic Super-8 camera that had never been unboxed. I unboxed it, put in batteries and on the first test of the motor all the plastic gears immediately crumbled. Totally useless..

[Todd Kitchen]

okay installed the new motor mounts. Projected a roll of silent. Runs smoothly. However, when I tried a roll of 24fps sound film it's slow. The slider switch between 18 and 24 fps is odd. It won't slide all the way down. It says 24 but I swear it's running 18. Just by the very faint "flicker" that you see at 18 that clears up at 24. Is it stuck? Is there some sort of mechanical adjustment? Other than that, I like this proj. way better than my Chinon MV-330. Even with the stock Eumig zoom lens, edge to edge focus is WAY better than my Chinon, which has the sloppiest lens fitment I've ever seen.

[Shane C. Collins]

More than likely the rubber drive discs need to be cleaned, and rejuvenated to get proper grip against the drive wheel. I have done this to both my Eumig Mark S and Mark S 709 with great results! The key is to first clean the rubber discs with alcohol and a few cotton swabs. Then follow this up by using a rubber restore, or CRC belt dressing sold at most automotive stores. The belt dressing will recondition the rubber, and provide more grip, I did this a year ago and both machines are still performing like new. The center ball above the motor is on a slider and moves up or down to change the speed. You should only change speeds when the machine is turned on but idle and not in forward or reverse mode.

[Todd Kitchen]

Shane C. Collins The rubber disks seem pretty thick and fresh. I think it's the switch assembly itself. Because no matter what position the slider is in, the ball is still at the same radial distance on the disk. I would expect that moving the switch UP to 24fps would move the master shaft so that where it engages the rubber disk is a shorter radial distance. Shorter=less travel distance to make a complete revolution and therefore higher RPM and thus higher FPS. Is it possible that when I removed the motor to install the motor mounts something slipped out of alignment that I didn't notice?

[Todd Kitchen]

All I can say is that taking apart (and successfully putting back together) a consumer 8mm projector is a great test of patience and fortitude.

[Shane C. Collins]

Shane C. Collins The rubber disks seem pretty thick and fresh. I think it's the switch assembly itself. Because no matter what position the slider is in, the ball is still at the same radial distance on the disk. I would expect that moving the switch UP to 24fps would move the master shaft so that where it engages the rubber disk is a shorter radial distance. Shorter=less travel distance to make a complete revolution and therefore higher RPM and thus higher FPS. Is it possible that when I removed the motor to install the motor mounts something slipped out of alignment that I didn't notice?

Yes this is probably what happened. When you reinstall the motor you must line up the little slider ball with the shaft on the slider switch itself. Once this is done the slider mechanism will slide the ball up or down to regulate the speed. It takes a bit of fiddling around but once the ball is fitted into the slot, the screws holding the motor assembly in place can be tightened. Laying the projector face down on its side can help when trying to line up the motor shaft ball with the slider shaft. I find it's easier to have the slider switch set to 18 fps when lining things up.

I would still recondition those rubber discs if you haven't done so. You don't know how long or if this has ever been done. They will be glazed and dry from years of no use, and age.

[Todd Kitchen]

Shane C. Collins The part that gave me the most trouble when re-assembling the projector was the "red plastic thing." Do I have to remove that again? Trying to figure out the minimum amount of disassembly required to re-align the speed control. Sorry I don't know the technical name for the red thing. I wish there was some service manual for this projector that outlined the disassembly steps in the right order. i was totally flying by the seat of my pants....

This pic is from the internet but it looks identical to my projector, right down to the "banding" on the disks that I was able to clean up a bit with a pencil eraser. This cleanup method was suggested on these forums on an older Eumig post.

[Shane C. Collins]

Shane C. Collins The part that gave me the most trouble when re-assembling the projector was the "red plastic thing." Do I have to remove that again? Trying to figure out the minimum amount of disassembly required to re-align the speed control. Sorry I don't know the technical name for the red thing. I wish there was some service manual for this projector that outlined the disassembly steps in the right order. i was totally flying by the seat of my pants....

This pic is from the internet but it looks identical to my projector, right down to the "banding" on the disks that I was able to clean up a bit with a pencil eraser. This cleanup method was suggested on these forums on an older Eumig post.

That red plastic bracket is part of the record switch. Yours is a bit different than what is on my Mark SS and Mark S 709. I can't remember if I had to take mine out when I replaced the motor mounts. I think I did have to disconnect the slider to get the motor out. So, you may have to do the same with the 802. It's one extra step you might have to do in order to realign the speed switch with the round ball.

A pencil eraser will probably work OK but it will not restore the rubber. The rubber really needs to be refreshed. The only way to properly do this is by applying a rubber restore or the CRC automotive belt dressing I mentioned above. The easy part here being you don't need to disassemble anything to clean the discs. If the treatment you did worked OK and the speed is accurate then I would leave it as is. But, using my method is easy and long term for keeping the projector running in tip top shape.

[Todd Kitchen]

I don't want to take everything apart again, so I manually set the speed and can live with that as a temp solution. If I need to play 18fps movies at exactly 18fps, I'll move the ball manually again. The focus knob has also been disabled, as it didn't work anyway. I just manually rack the lens in and out to focus. . The projector lacks a main power switch but other than that it's purring along beautifully.