Welcome to the new 8mm Forum!
The forum you are looking at is entirely new software. Because there was no good way to import all of the old archived data from the last 20 years on the old software, everyone will need to register for a new account to participate.
To access the original forums from 2003-2019 which are now a "read only" status, click on the "FORUM ARCHIVE" link above.
Please remember registering with your first and last REAL name is mandatory. This forum is for professionals and fake names are not permitted. To get to the registration page click here.
Once the registration has been approved, you will be able to login via the link in the upper right corner of this page.
Also, please remember while it is highly encouraged to upload an avatar image to your profile, is not a requirement. If you choose to upload an avatar image, please remember that it IS a requirement that the image must be a clear photo of your face.
Thank you!
make sure that you are good with a soldering iron, I am not, so later when I get them I will find someone who is to change both of them. you don't want to make a mess on that board, in my case that is exactly what would happen if I tried
Me too Graham! You have to know your limitations when working on these projectors, and whereas I can get by soldering microswitches, motors etc, when its down to PC board level I just KNOW I would butcher it up. You also need the right equipment. The guy I go to has a precision soldering iron with a digital temperature read out, a precision solder sucker with a motorized pump, and he does all PC work under a microscope with intense illumination. And above all he has years of skill doing this kind of work for the US military, who don't mess around with their specifications and requirements for electronics soldering.
Hello at all!
I have soldered a little Bulb on this Board for the rew and take up Motors where the Voltage come in.
A Bulb make a Short when swiched on. So it gives a little Spark on the Contacts of the Relay.
A DC Motor did not give a Spark when swich it on.
This Spark clean the Contacts in the Relay.
Since I have done this every Relais is working fine. No Problems any longer.
That's a very clever idea Thomas! One other thing I thought about was drilling a small hole through the clear plastic cover of the relay (remove the cover first!) so I could squirt a little contact cleaner into the relay. I did not do this because the time and effort involved in getting the main board out of the projector, and back in again, demanded the best possible fix - putting in a new relay. But I kind of wish I had put that hole onto the cover of the new relay anyway, before I replaced it, so that I could possibly save myself a lot of trouble if/when this problem comes up again.
Hello Paul!
Contact Cleaner does only work for a short time on this relays. If the Projektor was out of use for four Weeks the fault came back again.
I bought a used Relay from Ebay and checked it out with my Multimeter. Three Contacts didn´t work.
Then I took an old Exiter Lamp from my 35mm Machine 6V5A and swich this Bulb with every Contackt Pair of the Relais on my table.
You can see the Sparks inside on every single Contakt. After this Procedure the Relais is working fine until now in one of my GS 1200.
I would add that there ARE professional PCB repairers like IER ( Industrial Electronic Repairs ) at Letchworth in the UK. They have huge stocks of legacy and new parts and will work on boards without needing to know about film projectors. You give them the board and they test everything. I had two PCBs from my pedestal 16mm Elmo machine done and they come back like new. They even clean and re-coat over the copper rails. All issues solved and a two year guarantee. Not cheap but for that special machine so worth it.
Tweet
you don't want to make a mess on that board, in my case that is exactly what would happen if I tried
Comment