Retro-8 HELP

[Toby Riesterer]

Hello,

I've owned a Movie Stuff Retro 8 scanner for about 12 years and it's worked great so far. Recently I've been having problems with the "run" switch on the unit. I can calibrate the film just fine in "setup" mode but when I flip the switch to "run" the LED light does not come on. Can anyone identify this replacement toggle switch? I've searched for weeks on Google, ebay, Grainger, Carling, Reddit, FB groups, and even local electronics warehouses and nothing.

The Movie Stuff groups on Reddit and FB seem to think the switch is bad but as a novice with electronics I don't know to check this so I figured to just replace the switch and see if that solves it.

Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.

-Toby

[Nantawat Kittiwarakul]

That seems much like just an off-the-shelf Single Pole Double Throw switch to me. The only thing that make it seems unique is its 3 sets of contacts as most of these kind of switches would have only one or two sets of contacts. However I'm pretty sure that it can be had easily & cheaply if you shop around at the right place.

Edit: yes it's indeed readily available. You can even have up to 4 contact sets, with or without center-off position. So you have everything covered.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...350000057564_2

[Toby Riesterer]

That seems much like just an off-the-shelf Single Pole Double Throw switch to me. The only thing that make it seems unique is its 3 sets of contacts as most of these kind of switches would have only one or two sets of contacts. However I'm pretty sure that it can be had easily & cheaply if you shop around at the right place.

Edit: yes it's indeed readily available. You can even have up to 4 contact sets, with or without center-off position. So you have everything covered.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...350000057564_2

Thanks for the info!!

Apologies for the stupid question, doesn't all the info that is stamped on my switch have to match the replacement switch? Like watts, amps, etc. If they are not the same, that can damage the scanner right?

I found this switch:

While this one work?

Thanks again!

[Nantawat Kittiwarakul]

One thing for sure - you'll need the switch with center-off position. Shouldn't be a big concern.

Next issue would be the current ratings. The original ones is rated for 17A - about 2kW of power. Wondering if there's any parts in the unit that would consume that much of power - doesn't make any sense to me. My wildest guess that there won't be any part that would need more than 10A of current, but don't solidly count on me for that just yet.

Also just noticed that there seems to be stickers-like things placed on some terminals on the switch in the first pic. Does that mean those contacts set is actually NOT used? How many wires comming in & out from that switch?

If there're no more than 6 wires involved, that would mean you won't even need 3 contacts set switch in the first place. A typical DPDT switch with center-off position that can handle up to 10A (aka a very, very common ones) would be all you ever need!

[Toby Riesterer]

One thing for sure - you'll need the switch with center-off position. Shouldn't be a big concern.

Next issue would be the current ratings. The original ones is rated for 17A - about 2kW of power. Wondering if there's any parts in the unit that would consume that much of power - doesn't make any sense to me. My wildest guess that there won't be any part that would need more than 10A of current, but don't solidly count on me for that just yet.

Also just noticed that there seems to be stickers-like things placed on some terminals on the switch in the first pic. Does that mean those contacts set is actually NOT used? How many wires comming in & out from that switch?

If there're no more than 6 wires involved, that would mean you won't even need 3 contacts set switch in the first place. A typical DPDT switch with center-off position that can handle up to 10A (aka a very, very common ones) would be all you ever need!

Ah ok. Yes, I put the stickers on so I know which wires go where for the new switch. Does that really matter though?

Would I be safe in the switch I found on ebay above?

Thanks!

[Nantawat Kittiwarakul]

That replacement seems legit to me. If the price isn't too outrageous (should be around $10-20 range) and you're certain to get the wiring correct, then give it a try!