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KODAK REELS 8mm & Super 8 Films Digitizer

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  • KODAK REELS 8mm & Super 8 Films Digitizer

    Saw an excellent Youtube video on different methods of digitizing Super 8 and Standard 8mm films.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zVi...eSiggy%27sDigi talWorld


    The upshot was, I thought,although not perfect, was the KODAK REELS 8mm & Super 8 Films Digitizer as being the top pick for the most effective at an affordable price. I want to buy a converter that goes frame by frame as my experience digitizing with a 4k camera, using a projector, and filming off the movie screen is not cutting it..

    Anyone here used the KODAK REELS 8mm & Super 8 Films Digitizer​?

    https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...tizer_for.html


  • #2
    Hi Richard, the biggest issue for me with the Kodak and the Wolverine clones is image compression. But there are other issues, such as cheap transport that can cause film jitter (shake), colors that tend to emphasize yellow etc. If your camera has electronic shutter why not modify the projector for frame-by-frame.

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    • #3
      Thanks Stan, I think you're right. Don't want to buy a cheapo plastic thing that'll break in a year. Not sure if my projectors though will work. I have a Bolex M8 (Standard 8) and Bolex 18-5 or Elmo 1200 in Super 8. Not sure if those projectors will work. I especially want to digitize a lot of Standard 8 films. My camera is a Panasonic GH4 which I know will be more than satisfactory to record with as it films in 4k. . Looks like I need to do some more research to learn how to do this properly.

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      • #4
        You would have to use a small stepper with the Bolex M8. I have not done it for this particular projector but if it is easy to access the puller you could remove the belt and rig up a mount for a side mounted stepper without removing the original motor. A small stepper and the controller are pretty cheap. Have to take the bulb out and install a small LED light with a diffuser. I used this one on several of my projects:
        https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098W63FJ5
        Then you need a trigger for the camera. I usually use a optical coupler but a micro switch should do the trick. The switch can be triggered by something rigged up on the pulley.
        Elmo 1200 speed is controlled very precisely and you may be able to grab the film directly into an iPhone running at 24 FPS. I have never tried that with the Elmo1200 but did it successfully with the Elmo 16CL. An LED light should be used instead of the original bulb. Another possibility is the RPI with a global shutter.
        Let me know if you need more info on any of these solutions.
        Stan



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