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Wolverine-Hawkeye for Newbies

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  • Wolverine-Hawkeye for Newbies

    Here is a short guide to Hawkeye for the new forum members.
    The Wolverine Hawkeye mod is a new Wolverine controller that allows addition of 3rd party cameras and frame-by-frame image capture. The images can be captured in JPEG, BMP, or TIFF format and depending on the camera and lens can offer resolutions much higher that the original Wolverine. The image sequence that can be postprocessed into a video with different amount of lossy or lossless compression. With the original Wolverine compression is fixed and is high enough to cause annoying artifacts in the output video.
    The kit can be ordered from me by sending me a private message. The kit includes the new controller board and the control switches.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	hawkeye-v13.jpg Views:	0 Size:	111.0 KB ID:	27571

    The camera and lens are not included and can be bought from a 3rd party.
    The kit cost is $100
    The basic camera with the lens is around $200

    The user manual is available here:
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1e1c...ew?usp=sharing

    Summary of Hawkeye advantages:
    - Allows image sequence grab in JPEG, BMP or TIFF format which produces video without noticeable digital artifacts
    - HDR (high dynamic range) capability
    - Pulsed takeup that reduces the film shake
    - Capable of 2FPS with better video quality
    - Takeup reverse rewind reducing the film damage possibility

  • #2
    S8 Resolution 12mm lens:
    DFM72BUC02-ML 1280x1024

    S8 Resolution 16mm lens:
    DFM72BUC02-ML 2048x1536
    DFM 37UX226-ML 2560x1920

    Camera and 12mm lens source:
    https://www.theimagingsource.com/
    https://www.oemcameras.com/
    When buying include the F2.8 12mm lens and holder. If buying without lens make sure to request a quote for the 12mm lens holder for either camera.

    16mm lens source:
    https://www.aico-lens.com/product/16...ns-ach1622mac/
    You will have to request a quote. Specify F5.6

    Lens holder extender needed with the 16mm lens.
    https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Len...dp/B07JJ7S3ZP/



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    • #3
      Since the Woverine screen appears gone... I assume you will now need a separate computer to capture the output...correct?

      Comment


      • #4
        Yes, you are absolutely right Thomas. You need a Windows or a Linux machine connected to the camera via a USB cable. The computer runs the IC Capture sw that can be downloaded form ImagingSource. More detailed instructions are covered in the user manual.

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        • #5
          Thank you so much for posting this condensed info. I've been curious about the diy improvements to the Wolverine model, but the current development thread is daunting, to say the least. I plan on pouring over the manual later today, and see if I'm up to the challenge.

          Comment


          • #6
            It is great to see this concise summary. Do you have any plans to offer a build service for those also afeared by the prospect of putting this together...?

            I have an old jittery Wolverine that I can no longer use, and this system sounds like quite an improvement, but at present even though this may be very straight foward I don't feel that confident taking something like this on.

            I have a habit getting this sort of thing right the second time...

            Comment


            • #7
              Thank you Nate and Ozzie. I can put the whole system together for a reasonable price but do not have any spare Wolverine machines. I will check ebay for a used unit. Alternatively you can ship the unit to me -- maybe cheaper in a long run.

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              • #8
                Hi Ozzie. I can put the whole system together for you but all I have right now is a used movie maker (not pro version). Have not seen any low cost units on ebay. Sometimes they sell them for parts at very good price. I can get a new one and modify it for you but that will be pretty expensive.

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                • #9
                  Hi Stan, your work is impressive, I'm also interested in a modded Wolverine; as all my reels are small (3 min), I could manage with the non pro unit.
                  I would like 16mm (2048x1536) res, but maybe it's not noticeble given the probably low quality of my material. What is the disadvantage of using 16mm?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hi Isidro,
                    Here is s few disadvantages.
                    - the image on the sensor is larger making it difficult to align the camera for two different firm sizes. I made two small camera adapter boards, You have to swap the boards and realign when switching to different film size. Not too bad if you do it only a few times. But if you have a business this could be a problem.
                    - The image is larger and needs longer exposure which could force you to scan at lower speed.
                    - General issues related to larger video.
                    - Mechanically a bit tricky focusing the lens because it does not protrude as much as the12mm.
                    But definitely 16mm is a better lens.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks, 12mm seems a wiser choice, end video probably wont be so different with amateurísh source material. My reels are super8, never seen regular 8. Although relatives may come with unknown reels to process.
                      I'm considering capturing with my Chinon projector against Canon 70D (also have access to an 80D which is capable 1080p 50fps) which may be a lot cheaper because I already have them.
                      Only concern is the small space available for replacing the "little man" 48v 50w lamp with some kind of led (which I have to get).

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        What type of synchronization are you planning between the projector and the camera?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          https://8mmforum.film-tech.com/vbb/f...=6471#post6471
                          Manual synch projector to 16.67fps, DSLR set to 50fps. My idea is to extract middle frame (1 out of three) which should always be flicker free if speed is stable enough. Any LED lamp recomendations?

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                          • #14
                            I used the same technique several years back. Would get some infrequent flicker. Sometimes you get it but it is hard to see.
                            In this post a projector is synched to the Mark2 manually. The author of the post used the strip LEDs with flat top. Dome top can create blooming.
                            Nice colors.
                            http://blog.iso50.com/23724/convert-...th-5d-mark-ii/
                            BTW - use good quality optics. I personally stay away from custom optics such as condenser lenses etc. You will get color aberrations, distorted corners etc. Then again it is ok for some folks.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I can get here a reverse adaptor ring to 52mm for 4u$, I have a couple of goold old manual Canon FD prime lenses in very good shape: 50mm f1.4 and 135mm f2.8 (can borrow others from a friend). Projector has it's own f:1.5 20-32mm zoom in an apparently acceptable condition but can't be sure until I test it. Will have to make some experiments, will have to purchase a couple of old cartoons to avoid ruining my important reels. I also have Canon EF 85mm f1.8 not sure if diafragm can be freely choosed for reversed EF lenses.

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